Steel Vs Aluminium

[Herr.Wolfkatze]

I know quite a few riders that are trading out their aluminium trials frames for steel versions, usually Marino.

Whilst I know steel bends rather than snaps unlike aluminium, I don't understand why exactly this is a preferable alternative. Surely it's better to be able to give your frame a good weld to the exact quality and condition it already was, as opposed riding around with a bent frame?

For example, if one had an Inspired Fourplay frame, what would be the benefit of having an exact Marino replica?

[LEON]

That only really applies to straight tubes, frame are made of tubes that are joined from all angles supporting each other.

Steel doesn't just bend all the time, with handle bars the steel ones will get very bent before they break, the brittle alu ones will just go without warning.

the frame will only be bent if it's cracked like my old norco did, if you crack a chainstay or seat stay then after a while your rear end will be misaligned. If alu cracks it's pretty much done, if steel's repaired it's just as strong it was, if not stronger.

Steel is more forgiving, the alu being more rigid doesn't absorb the shock so much.

I'd say advantages would be pretty minimal untilone breaks, steel is infinitely repairable. And it's personal choice too, some people just prefer it.

Same as alu you dont want steel too light as there's usually a price to pay, my norco leech frame lasted 6 weeks from brand new, which i think is disgusting even if it was the price of a marino, let alone the actual cost of £500+

You cant really compare the inspired (top quality alu and pretty much good as it gets) to Marino who's using budget steel, nothing flash, but making the most of it. If he had reynolds 725 tubing or something much lighter you would definitely notice a difference. I understand leeson use high quality steel but I've never had 1 as I really dont like the look of them.

Leon

Edited June 20, 2009 by LEON

[Herr.Wolfkatze]

That only really applies to straight tubes, frame are made of tubes that are joined from all angles supporting each other.

Steel doesn't just bend all the time, with handle bars the steel ones will get very bent before they break, the brittle alu ones will just go without warning.

the frame will only be bent if it's cracked like my old norco did, if you crack a chainstay or seat stay then after a while your rear end will be misaligned. If alu cracks it's pretty much done, if steel's repaired it's just as strong it was, if not stronger.

Steel is more forgiving, the alu being more rigid doesn't absorb the shock so much.

I'd say advantages would be pretty minimal untilone breaks, steel is infinitely repairable. And it's personal choice too, some people just prefer it.

Same as alu you dont want steel too light as there's usually a price to pay, my norco leech frame lasted 6 weeks from brand new, which i think is disgusting even if it was the price of a marino, let alone the actual cost of £500+

You cant really compare the inspired (top quality alu and pretty much good as it gets) to Marino who's using budget steel, nothing flash, but making the most of it. If he had reynolds 725 tubing or something much lighter you would definitely notice a difference. I understand leeson use high quality steel but I've never had 1 as I really dont like the look of them.

Leon

That pretty spelled out everything I wanted to know, thanks very much mate!

Top notch reply, it's very rare my issues are resolved with one post, let alone the first one

[LEON]

No problem, steel will always dent easier though, even the heavy duty stuff, tubes have to be thinner because of the weight (about 3x alu) So a long tappy hoppy gay bike with long tubes is a bit of a no go, even with heavy duty steel, never mind the light stuff. One slip to downtube and it's terminally damaged. Rings a bell on tf.....

Leon

[afrobot]

No problem, steel will always dent easier though, even the heavy duty stuff, tubes have to be thinner because of the weight (about 3x alu) So a long tappy hoppy gay bike with long tubes is a bit of a no go, even with heavy duty steel, never mind the light stuff. One slip to downtube and it's terminally damaged. Rings a bell on tf.....

Leon

I would politely disagree. I saw an XTP on its first ride dent a downtube enough to steepen the head angle with a moderate hit. My current ride has a True Temper Platinum OX downtube which has taken numerous hits and only one minor dent. It really depends on the alloy. An echo urban fork with U6 alloy is flexy as all hell but hasn't broken, while most aluminum is rather stiff. Most Aluminum is more stiff than steel but is soft. Titanium is VERY hard but flexy in 3Al/2v form 6Al/4v is more stiff.

Fatigue life of aluminum is far less than steel which is nearly infinite provided it was welded propery. However it is far more affordable to make a reasonable weight frame out of aluminum than steel.

In the past I broke an aluminum frame once a year I've been riding this for 5 years, Not superlight at 10kg but not bad.

internal cabling

Ti tensioner

Ti non disc side spokes and sexy nipples

currently building a 1.6 kg frame with steel that will probably last forever.

[Matt Burrows]

No problem, steel will always dent easier though, even the heavy duty stuff, tubes have to be thinner because of the weight (about 3x alu) So a long tappy hoppy gay bike with long tubes is a bit of a no go, even with heavy duty steel, never mind the light stuff. One slip to downtube and it's terminally damaged. Rings a bell on tf.....

Leon

I agree on the denting front, but the new long Pashley is probably one of the strongest frames out there and that is 1080

[LEON]

Well I think the shape of the pashley tubing makes a huge difference dent wise (forgot how long the new one is), But I was really talking about budget steel frames with round tubing (Marino)