crispyboy Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 Hello everyone i looking to buy a new rear wheel and i thought of getting a trialtech race rear hub.Has anyone had or is using one of these hubs at the moment if so could you tell me what you think ?cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Morton Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 Dont do it. my mate bought one. It's crap. Constantually coming lose. Ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiamWood! Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 Just becuase it comes loose it means its crap? General maintainace would sort the hub coming loose, and a dab of locktight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 Just becuase it comes loose it means its crap? General maintainace would sort the hub coming loose, and a dab of locktight.I agree, mine has served me well especially for the price, with the correct maintenance it should'nt need any more attention and served me well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crispyboy Posted June 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 dont you have the sport one ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 dont you have the sport one ?No its a race, oh bugger I put the wrong thing in my topic sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor Powell Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 Just becuase it comes loose it means its crap? General maintainace would sort the hub coming loose, and a dab of locktight.Locktight will most likely void the warrenty, My mate had one of these, brand new at christmas and it f**ked up last month, and hes not very hard on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Ward Posted June 14, 2009 Report Share Posted June 14, 2009 just spend a bit more money and get the t-master hub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiamWood! Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Locktight will most likely void the warrenty, My mate had one of these, brand new at christmas and it f**ked up last month, and hes not very hard on it.Im sorry but how would locktight void the warrenty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben John-Hynes Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Im sorry but how would locktight void the warrenty?Well if tar can void the warrenty of brake pads, there's every reason to believe that locktite will void the warrenty of a hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Fel Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Well if tar can void the warrenty of brake pads, there's every reason to believe that locktite will void the warrenty of a hub.Loctite is designed for threads. Tar isn't designed for brakes.Not to mention the fact they are totally different things.If your mates Trial-Tech hub came loose its probably because your mate is a mong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor Powell Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Well my mate brought an Ozonys mod frame, His bb was constantly coming loose, he consulted tarty about using locktite on it and they told him that it would void the warrenty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunt man t Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 just spend a bit more money and get the t-master hubdont do it!ive snaped 2 of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Fel Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Well my mate brought an Ozonys mod frame, His bb was constantly coming loose, he consulted tarty about using locktite on it and they told him that it would void the warrenty.I wasn't saying use loctite on his hub. I was just point out that they are totally different things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Smith!! Posted June 15, 2009 Report Share Posted June 15, 2009 Well my mate brought an Ozonys mod frame, His bb was constantly coming loose, he consulted tarty about using locktite on it and they told him that it would void the warrenty.My bb came with lock tight on it? .Thats the most ridic thing I've ever heard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiamWood! Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 My bb also came with locktight on the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cai Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) Locktight comes on many threaded areas - crank bolts, bb shells, stem bolts, hub bolts - so I doubt its likely to void any warrenties.And 'open bearing' style hubs are not a good idea for trials. The Onza, Monty and Trialtech open bearing hubs are all 'bad' when compared with sealed hubs that just cost around £20 more. The sealed hubs will outlast the cheaper open bearing hubs. My advise is to fork out that extra bit of cash and buy something along the lines of the Onza T-master or Trialtech Sport hubs - allthough a lot of riders tend to snap these 10mm axles (after a fair amount of time riding ofcourse), the bearings won't come loose all the time so the life of the hub will be increased alot.EDIT: If you can afford it defenatly get an Echo fixed hub - the axles on these are a lot stronger. There have been two different models over the years - one with a 12mm axle and one with a 17mm axle (both are machined down to 10mm to fit the dropouts), and these hubs are solid! I've had both and not a single problem on either. they are worth the £70 if you've got that money to spend Edited June 16, 2009 by cai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sponge Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Open/caged bearing hubs aren't as good as sealed usually, that's kinda true. Having to tension the cones just right is a complete pain the arse, which isn't something you ever need to really worry about on sealed hubs.But.... the Open/caged bearing hubs aren't 'terrible', especially if looked after and serviced correctly. I would know, as I am using a Nankai Bamboo freecoaster rear hub, which on purpose was designed to use caged bearings as opposed to sealed bearings because up until a month ago or so, every other sealed bearing freecoaster like KHE models, Federal, Alienation, Odyssey, ... they all soiled themselves at the driver bearings horribly (sealed bearings snapping in half for example) and on the other bearings sometimes too. The idea is that caged bearings can take side-to-side impacts and loads a lot better than sealed cartridge units can. Also, caged/open bearings can easily be 'bodged' to make the wheel tight and run smoothish even when the bearings are a bit old.... which isn't always the case when a sealed cartridge bearing begins to loosen up. The trade-off however is that these unsealed bearing hubs will not be able to run as smooth or as long as sealed ones can. That's just a fact that we have to live with. You can get damn close to the smoothness and long-runningness of a sealed hub however, if you use high quality waterproof grease like Phil Wood (think: if there were a Chris King of greases, this is the ONE), you'll find that your hub runs smoother for longer and doesn't need maintenance nearly as often if you used greases from other brands. This is what we have all come to use for our Nankai hubs, and it's still working fine for flatlanders for decades and decades. Especially in trials, you don't need speed or maintaining very fast speeds, so the 'grittier' feeling of an unsealed hub isn't really a disadvantage.Though to be honest, I'd still go for a sealed hub just for simplicity's sake, and a 20 pound extra spending into a sealed over unsealed is likely to save you more money in the long run. For those who might be interested:This is a brilliant grease, the absolute best, and I highly recommend it to anyone for any general application purposes. It'd work wonders in your freewheel especially open or caged bearing ones like Tensile. Also it is great grease for applications such as greasing the fork steerer/stem and bar/stem, similarly it's the best grease you'll be able to inject into your open bearing pedals and into existing sealed cartridge bearings once their original grease starts running thin. Truly the 'Chris King' of greases, and good for all-round use. The tube is fairly large despite the picture making it out to be small. It costs around 6 pounds only... Those living in London have it easy... Brixton Cycles has quite a few of in stock. This is recognised as the pinnacle of grease in the Flatland world where servicing freecoasters is a very 'common and often' part of being a flatlander. Those of you that know much about freecoasters'll know how important it is to use good grease over cheaper counterparts. What else needs to be known? Oh yeah, it's dark green, and waterproof, and should not be consumed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Duck Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 I have never, ever, heard of anybody who wanted a warranty replacement on brake pads. As said, bit of a difference between putting 'thread lock' on threads and putting something used to construct roads on bicycle braking surfaces, no? Anyway, f**k coned hubs. Don't be a cheapskate and save fannying about with loose cones every five minutes and buy a sealed bearing hub. I use a trialtech sport, its the tits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.