Duncy H Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 1. I'm looking at buying some cranks for my mod, anyone got any strong reccomendations for a lower bugdet. At the moment i'm considering the trialtech 160 taper cranks and matching bb. Although is it really worth the extra ang going ISIS, if so again what can you reccomend?2. On my hope mono brake I have a weee problem, I think that the pin to hold the pads in has worn a sort of larger hole in the caliper meanig that with the brake locked on it feels like something is loose over the front end(similar to the feeling of a loose headset) Anybody got any ideas on a fix for this?3. I know they have only just been released but anybody had any experience with the zoo! lynx mod frames?4.If I were to eventually get one I have no real idea on the effects of geo. What are the effects of different chainstay, bb rise, length ect on the characteristics of a bike, and so what would the zoo lynx be like?5. Anybody know the geo of an echo team 07 mod short frame? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdmackay Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 1. I'm looking at buying some cranks for my mod, anyone got any strong reccomendations for a lower bugdet. At the moment i'm considering the trialtech 160 taper cranks and matching bb. Although is it really worth the extra ang going ISIS, if so again what can you reccomend?2. On my hope mono brake I have a weee problem, I think that the pin to hold the pads in has worn a sort of larger hole in the caliper meanig that with the brake locked on it feels like something is loose over the front end(similar to the feeling of a loose headset) Anybody got any ideas on a fix for this?3. I know they have only just been released but anybody had any experience with the zoo! lynx mod frames?4.If I were to eventually get one I have no real idea on the effects of geo. What are the effects of different chainstay, bb rise, length ect on the characteristics of a bike, and so what would the zoo lynx be like?5. Anybody know the geo of an echo team 07 mod short frame?1. I have those exact cranks and BB. The cranks are great. Not had a problem with them. When I first got them they were coming loose but then I got a ratchet 8 mm on them and tightened them very tight and it's all good. BB is fine too. IMO, it's not really worth it getting ISIS. I mean yeah, it's lighter and stronger and stuff. But it costs like an extra £45 which is a bit much if you ask me.2. Sorry can't help you there. I'm a maggie basher. 3. I've not heard of anyone with it yet but they are meant to be like the 04 Python and supposedly it rode REALLY nice. 4. Well, basically different geo's are for different styles of riding and different feels. High BB rise makes a bike sit on the back wheel very nice and is great for sidehops, gaps and sidey's to back and stuff. It seems to work great with TGS. However low bb is better for street. Such as manuals and rolling tricks. You just need to see what sort of riding you do and gauge it from there. The length (wheelbase) doesn't just depend on the frame. The forks also have a great effect on how long a bike is as you measure it from axle to axle. Longer bikes such as 1030+ are great for sidehops and TGS whereas shorter bikes like 1000 sorta length are meant to be great for natty as they are small and can get round tight spots easy. Best way to figure out what you want is to have shots on peoples bikes with different geo's. 5. My mate has an Echo Team '07 but it's the long one. It rides very very nice and is a great bike. The geo of the short one... I'm not completely sure but I think the wheelbase will be either 1000, 1005. BB rise i'm guessing will be around +55, +60.Hope this helped a bit.Hunter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Thanks for the help, as for the echo team I think it is something like 1005 wb and +35 bb rise although anyone else have any idea? Please could someone tell me what the difference in characteristics would be like with the zoo lynx? What effect does chainstay length have on the bike?Wheelbase: 1000mm (Short), 1020mm (Long)Chainstay Length: 362mmBB Rise: 55mmHead Angle: 72 degrees Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigamac Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Question 2.Could be that your rotor bolts are loose? Tighten them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Question 2.Could be that your rotor bolts are loose? Tighten them up. Nah I'm pretty sure its not that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben_travis Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Question 2:disc brakes do that. Its called pad rock. It happens on all brakes, even on maguras it will happen. I wouldnt worry about it at all to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Fel Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Nah I'm pretty sure its not that.The brake pads have paint on the back of them and it can cause them to slide and click when the brake is on. The more you ride the better it will get. When you take the pads off you'll notice a silver ring where the piston touches them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 If you don't snap square taper BB axles then there's no benefit to paying extra for splined cranks unless you're building a cost no object lightweight bike. Since I changed to splined cranks 3ish years ago I've not had an axle snap while square taper BB's lasted me about a year before snapping... I reckon some of this is Shimano letting their quality slip as none of their high end BB's have been square taper for well over 5 years... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti-mig-guy Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 I will never buy another set of cranks that do not have replaceable peddle threads. I have been looking and there are a few different options. The first time a nice set of cranks gets ruined when a friend rides your bike, and is a moron who doesn't notice the peddle wobble. I recently destroyed the threads in a 2 week old set of echo forged cranks, when I slammed the peddle on a missed side hop. At the very least try to get CNC'd cranks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Fel Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 How people ruin crank threads all the time is beyond me. I recently snapped a pedal spanner tightening my ti axle pedals into my try-all cranks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Thanks for the help, once i'm ready I think I will go for the trialtech cranks and matching taper bb seen as they seem the best option on my budget.Got another question With my hope disc it doesn't seem to hold/power so well for example when I do gaps to front. I've tryed a few things such as heating it up and pooring water on it but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indianatrials Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Moooooooooost likely. Or there is slop in the totor bolt holes, so same effect. Nothing complicated, just get a new rotor.Question 2.Could be that your rotor bolts are loose? Tighten them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdmackay Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Thanks for the help, once i'm ready I think I will go for the trialtech cranks and matching taper bb seen as they seem the best option on my budget.Got another question With my hope disc it doesn't seem to hold/power so well for example when I do gaps to front. I've tryed a few things such as heating it up and pooring water on it but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Any ideas?Ahh get a maggie. Soo much better than discs imo. Moooooooooost likely. Or there is slop in the totor bolt holes, so same effect. Nothing complicated, just get a magura. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Ahh get a maggie. Soo much better than discs imo. I have a echo TR brake but my forks are past it as for running as 4 bolt forks and my wheel has a weird sort of double buckle which makes the lever feel really weird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey1991 Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Question 2:disc brakes do that. Its called pad rock. It happens on all brakes, even on maguras it will happen. I wouldnt worry about it at all to be honest.Yer was about to mention that, it usually goes away under hard braking, if it doesn't its very likely your rotor or calliper bolts being loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted June 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Right I have two new questions but didn't want to make a new thread.....-Anyone got any sort of magic voodoo tricks for getting a bb out as mine seems kind of stuck?-How long do you use metal cutting discs for when you are grinding as mine seems rather rough and doesn't give such a good grind anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdmackay Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 -How long do you use metal cutting discs for when you are grinding as mine seems rather rough and doesn't give such a good grind anymore.Not sure if there is a specific length of time.It will depend on how often you grind, what angle you hold the grinder at, what discs you use, the thickness of the discs you use. Just whenever they stop giving a good grind would be the best time for a change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 I will never buy another set of cranks that do not have replaceable peddle threads. I have been looking and there are a few different options. The first time a nice set of cranks gets ruined when a friend rides your bike, and is a moron who doesn't notice the peddle wobble. I recently destroyed the threads in a 2 week old set of echo forged cranks, when I slammed the peddle on a missed side hop. At the very least try to get CNC'd cranks.echo forged cranks are shit though, go for meta's if you want replacable bits, mine were spot on...I recently snapped a pedal spanner tightening my ti axle pedals into my try-all cranks.tryall cranks are the best ffw cranks money can buy imh, i'm not suprised they pwned a spanner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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