Jump to content

Magura Problems


trialschallenger

Recommended Posts

i re bled my hs33's the other day because they were shall we say CRAP while i was out riding yesterday they just seemed to die (lever pulled in easily and extra half an inch)

i can not see any visable leak,and they still hold well just slightly anopying the lever pulling in that much further

any one eles come accross this problem?

or can anyone offer advice to fixing the problem?

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i re bled my hs33's the other day because they were shall we say CRAP while i was out riding yesterday they just seemed to die (lever pulled in easily and extra half an inch)

i can not see any visable leak,and they still hold well just slightly anopying the lever pulling in that much further

any one eles come accross this problem?

or can anyone offer advice to fixing the problem?

cheers

If its not a leak, then put cling film in the little bowl thing in the lever body, bit of a bodge but works for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

might be a lever seal gone i would strip it and give it a good clean to see if anythings amiss or damaged

that i think ill try inbetween work and step daughters perants evening cheers

kinda seems wierd though i expected there to be at least a bit of fluid

and what does everyone bleed maguras with these days?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

water bleeds seem to be quite common these days, thats what i run mine with and there solid. means you cane even bleed it under water so there is no chance of air getting at all. but if your seals are already dead might not be to grate. meh!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i run mine on de-ionized water parently its got a higher boiling point than normal water!?

thing is i also changed levers when i re=bled the brake so im swaying towards a busted slave but again cnt see n e fluids oozing out

how would you go about deionizing water and would it really make much of a difference?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how would you go about deionizing water and would it really make much of a difference?

You can buy bottles of it, used for car batteries etc.

just give it a proper going over, cheeck hose, fittings, seals, scratches on inside of lever piston?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did have this problem before, can't remember how i sorted it atm..... I will think of it soon lol, sorry for the usless post :P

Why? Why post that!?

I had this problem before, the lever piston/seal sat further into the lever body meaning I had to pull the lever in further. Take the piston out, clean it, clean the inside of the lever body then pop it all back together. Should sort it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had this problem before, the lever piston/seal sat further into the lever body meaning I had to pull the lever in further. Take the piston out, clean it, clean the inside of the lever body then pop it all back together. Should sort it out.

Did you back the TPA all the way out before you bled the brake? :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why? Why post that!?

I had this problem before, the lever piston/seal sat further into the lever body meaning I had to pull the lever in further. Take the piston out, clean it, clean the inside of the lever body then pop it all back together. Should sort it out.

ill bear that in mind when i have it in pieces tonight cheers!

Did you back the TPA all the way out before you bled the brake? :)

and i wish it was sumthin simple like that but on my other lever the TPA didnt actually work the thread had snapped off

and is this possible to have effected both levers within a week?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and i wish it was sumthin simple like that but on my other lever the TPA didnt actually work the thread had snapped off

and is this possible to have effected both levers within a week?

Strangely it is - I found (When I ran two HS33s) that when part of one lever fails, the same part on the other lever is almost guaranteed to fail within 2 weeks (If both brakes are the same age).

If you're using a water bleed it may be hard to spot a very slow leak as it will evaporate. If you have an oil bleed, clean the outside of the brake, use a cable tie to hold the brake lever tightly pulled and come back in an hour. This should make it a lot easier to spot a slow leak, which seems to be the problem. Lever piston seals are the likely culprit if you don't find a leak in a shroud nut or bleed port.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i dont think i explained myself well there

im running a hope c2 (by far my favourite disc brake of all time) on the front and a maggy hs33 on the rear,i had this problem the other week so i changed the lever and then it does the same thing

the slaves havnt come out of the mounts,the pistones return fully and work perfectly,its water bled ive cleaned it and still cnt find a problem so it might be a shiny new brake for me!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...