davey1991 Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Hm maybe...the whole idea of the project was to be relatively innovative hence the interesting mounts. The design is fairly tried and tested in Hoffman bikes, albeit with some modifications in my design I have to admit they really do look nice. But it looks a little to thin, you could put a buldge there but it would ruin the look. Maybe if you but some sort of inbuilt booster from one to the other it would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 (edited) Cheers, well they are designed in the classic horseshoe booster style... have you seen the rendering from a different angle? Here's an earlier one: edit: Won't let me embed a new picture, but have a look at the last page to see what i mean cheers Edited February 9, 2010 by Alex Dark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 Waiting for replies back from around 40 aluminium wholesalers I emailed yesterday.... In the meantime: Hmm titanium nitride coating for big-ballin' gold..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtchell Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Cool is this topic I think its quite amazing how you guys know so much about making the frame, to be honest I didn,t relize how much work actually goes into the designing of the frames keep it up its really interesting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Looking really good, will be interesting to see how it turns out Do you have a rough figure for material costs yet or are you just going to pay it out no matter what? Get them made to the design if it works well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Looking really good, will be interesting to see how it turns out Do you have a rough figure for material costs yet or are you just going to pay it out no matter what? Get them made to the design if it works well? Hell yeah Erm, for the downtube, top tube and stays it works out at £23 plus delivery...the rest is going to be sourced from a different supplier, so yet to be confirmed Haha, maybe.....i'm taking the next year off so who knows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Hell yeah Erm, for the downtube, top tube and stays it works out at £23 plus delivery...the rest is going to be sourced from a different supplier, so yet to be confirmed Haha, maybe.....i'm taking the next year off so who knows If it works I want one!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l33th3tr33 Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 If it works I want one!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoozie Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 If it works I want one!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Just thought I'd pick up on this; the forks will be under tension at the back when 'just riding along', however hardly any stress is put there then! The big (fork-breaking) forces come into place when the forks are being bent back, which is why most forks break from fatigue caused by high stress on the front of the legs/crown/steerer. Based on every fork I've owned that bent or snapped (And there must be at least 6 or 7 of them I can think of) failing due to cracks forming in the back of the fork legs or the back of the steerer or bending forward rather than backwards if they didn't crack, I'll stand by what I've said... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heatsink Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 A little while ago I was thinking about the design of a brake mount which allowed Vees or 4 bolt maguras to be interchanged via the swapping of bosses into a plate on the frame. It had some issues so never got off the ground. Now that the moment is gone, feel free to peruse the original concept drawings if there are any ideas worth persuing. On each mount, both Magura bosses would be removed and only the Vee boss fitted. The aim being to minimise the already statuesque height of the Vee boss! Wanting the option of both mounts, in the end I went for the simpler solution you can see on the black 24UK. Good luck with the frame! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannyBazz (: Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 (edited) I don't know if this has been said, and I can't be arsed reading through the topic... But have you thought of maggie mounts on top, Vee mounts underneath? EDIT: It would appear.. .that's exactly what steve has just said haha Edited February 16, 2010 by DannyBazz (: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 A little while ago I was thinking about the design of a brake mount which allowed Vees or 4 bolt maguras to be interchanged via the swapping of bosses into a plate on the frame. It had some issues so never got off the ground. Now that the moment is gone, feel free to peruse the original concept drawings if there are any ideas worth persuing. On each mount, both Magura bosses would be removed and only the Vee boss fitted. The aim being to minimise the already statuesque height of the Vee boss! Wanting the option of both mounts, in the end I went for the simpler solution you can see on the black 24UK. Good luck with the frame! Steve You legend, I reckon that idea would be easily integratable into my design Thanks man, I was considering putting Vee studs on the top of the magura mounts, but decided this would be far too weak. Started some cad renderings for a system now, I'll post up when I'm done. Cheers again I don't know if this has been said, and I can't be arsed reading through the topic... But have you thought of maggie mounts on top, Vee mounts underneath? EDIT: It would appear.. .that's exactly what steve has just said haha I certainly have, discarded the idea, but now Steve has come up with the above I think It's back on the cards again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigAl Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 If it works I want one!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Right...got some materials, so jumped in at the deep-end and made some drop-outs. Took me 2 hours to get the Mill and everything set-up. Later found that King fun bolts won't quite clear the top of it, but I'll make the Mk.2 with some adjustments. This was just to get my eye in, and first time with a milling machine so don't be too harsh The final will be revised with the following: The lower un-milled section will be removed Snail-cam hole will be added The slot for the axle will be moved further inwards, and slightly further down to allow Chris King fun bolts to clear the top lip. The area on the right of the 45* angle will be also milled to fit inside the tubing. All areas of the dropout will be chamfered and polished. Cheers, any suggestions welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Hmm titanium nitride coating for big-ballin' gold..... I'm not sure you can coat aluminium with nitride, anodising that colour would be feasible though. Nitride is a great finish to keep clean, but it's so much stiffer than the Aluminium it'd probably cause early cracking if it stayed attached to the frame at all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 I'm not sure you can coat aluminium with nitride, anodising that colour would be feasible though. Nitride is a great finish to keep clean, but it's so much stiffer than the Aluminium it'd probably cause early cracking if it stayed attached to the frame at all... Ah good point.....To be honest, I'll probably just polish the hell out of it and leave it at that. Generous dose of lacquer too, make it easier to look for cracks too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 As I discovered on my last Echo frame, without a proper polished finish bare aluminium starts to develop strange looking pits and marks over time, so polish and lacquer are needed to keep it looking awesome for years... Either that or try to get it ball burnished like GT frames from back in the day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 As I discovered on my last Echo frame, without a proper polished finish bare aluminium starts to develop strange looking pits and marks over time, so polish and lacquer are needed to keep it looking awesome for years... Either that or try to get it ball burnished like GT frames from back in the day... Ball burnished would be sweet...no idea of any places to get that done though Im more worried about the rest of it at the moment Materials are taking an age to get here ( the little that I've ordered ) So I'm gonna crack on and get the really tricky parts done first. The dropouts, BB yoke and Magura mount area will probably be first up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casualjoe Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Ah good point.....To be honest, I'll probably just polish the hell out of it and leave it at that. Generous dose of lacquer too, make it easier to look for cracks too You can get ally TiNi coated, would look smart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 (edited) You can get ally TiNi coated, would look smart. Ah research needed Edit: Doesn't really seem suited for aluminium...and will probably cost an arm and a leg to have done Edited February 23, 2010 by Alex Dark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casualjoe Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Ah research needed You can basically coat any dielectric material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted February 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 Basically had to re-design the BB yolk to suit the milling machine that we have at college, and to suit 1" 3/4" instead of 15 x 17mm which the previous one was designed for. The actual Mk2. dropouts are below, both polished and fresh out of the machine Click Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leistonbmx Posted February 25, 2010 Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 Looks like this is gonna bea good build. OT: But you have a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted March 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 Okay, all materials are now at college being mitred and such....pictures and that up when the majority are finished. One small matter though... I'm putting a shit load of time and effort into making this so I want a decent BB set-up compatible with my old set-up ( 68x128 isis set-up ). My choices are as follows: Machine a BB shell and pay £20 to have it tapped to standard 1.37" x 24tpi thread to take my old fsa platinum BB. Buy either http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?product_id=11117&category_id=2 or a comparable strong ISIS press fit style bearing BB Try and find another bottom bracket that fits my requirements....like I said above the frame hasn't yet been constructed so I can make the shell fit the BB. Are there any decent press fit style 128 ISIS BB's out there? Is press-fit a good option with aluminium frames? Any other types of BB that would work with a front freewheel set-up? Cheers for any help you lot can give Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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