Tomm Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 Just bleed it with cooking oil, then you have no need for these fancy creations.Veg oil is pretty thick though. I'm pretty interested in the outcome of this emulsion, but I don't really think it's going to revolutionise anything. Unless you're going to do a bath bleed or you can't get any mineral oil, I would probably just go with some proper mineral oil intended for brakes. Apparently Shimano mineral oil is thinner than the Magura stuff stuff, cheaper too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDoom Posted February 18, 2009 Report Share Posted February 18, 2009 http://jforjustice.co.uk/banksters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Bit of a bump, its been almost 6 weeks since I did this, the brake is still working perfectly smooth and quickly as it should.Previously with a plain water bleed the slaves would have become sticky by now, I will bump this in a couple of months to report on how its doing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) Just bled mine with plain water, the lever piston has already started to get stickied up and one of the slaves, so I'm going to give this a bosh.Any Updates Ed? Not changed it at all? Would you recomend anything different to how you did it, more oil perhaps?EDIT: I think I'll make my own up, how about 2 parts Pro-Cool, 2 parts water, a squirt of washing up liquid and one part oil sound good?EDIT2: Just replaced the water with a 2:1 mix of ProCool and water, seems alright although the pistons are reacting a bit slow... It needs a proper lubricant beause I know the lever piston was sticking with plain water.It's all pretty new, and I never bled it wth Royal Blood, just used Pro-Cool when it was new, (I built it from all new parts, slaves, lever etc.), so I'm guessing the seals havn't "worn in" yet. I need a more lubricating fluid anyway.Ed, when you stirred it up with the washing up liquid in, how did you stop it going all frothy? Mine was terrible! Maybe I used too much? Edited April 3, 2009 by Muel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Motivator Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 KY Jelly is water soluble.How about 2 parts water, 1 part KY, 1 part antifreeze? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 It's a good idea, but I want to just use stuff I have here.The ProCool is fairly lubracative already, so I reckon:4 parts water.2 parts ProCool.1 part oil.A squirt of washing up liquid.This will be about 10% antifreeze, as the ProCool is 50:50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Its still going absolutely perfectly When I mixed the solution it was in a plastic cup, full to the top with literally 1 tiny drop of washing up liquid. The water was warm as this helps the emulsifiers do their job initially, I also mixed the water, antifreeze and washing up liquid before adding the oil, didnt get any pictures though. Mine didnt froth up at all but it was an opaque white/blue liquid, there were a few air bubbles visible when I first mixed it so I left it to settle for a few minutes and it was all good.I think you may have just used too much washing up liquid, literally it was one drop (for approximately 250ml) and it seems to have worked perfectly.At a rough guess my 250ml mixture was: -115 ml water115 ml antifreeze18 ml oil (a reasonable squirt)2 ml washing up liquid (a single drop) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Ah, I measured it out and had 500ml of 50% water 50% procool. (so 75% water 24% antifreeze), and gave it a proper big slug of washing up liquid. Any idea what the oil was? I've got various gear box oils and other stuff, would some 10w40 be rate? Or too thick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Ah, I measured it out and had 500ml of 50% water 50% procool. (so 75% water 24% antifreeze), and gave it a proper big slug of washing up liquid. Any idea what the oil was? I've got various gear box oils and other stuff, would some 10w40 be rate? Or too thick?The oil was specifically halfords cycle oil Its just a plain medium weight lubricating oil, lighter than 10w40 though. 3in1 will do the trick, to be honest as long as it isnt really silly thick you should be ok; perhaps if you use slightly less of the 10w40 youll be ok, basically the lighter the oil the more you can put in hence increasing lubricity (is that even a word? ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 I have 3in1, it's very old though.How about fork oil? It's semi-sinthetic though. I'm guessing for a maggy that you'd want "natural" oil with the seals being for mineral oil? They stand water though...2 stroke oil maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 I have 3in1, it's very old though.How about fork oil? It's semi-sinthetic though. I'm guessing for a maggy that you'd want "natural" oil with the seals being for mineral oil? They stand water though...2 stroke oil maybe?Just use the 3in1, I used some of my dads that was at least 20 years old and that was fine I doubt there would be any problems with using synth oils, it only really affects clutch plates, in this case I dont think thats really relevant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 I'll report back, tommorrow though I'm riding my motorbike, my pads keep coming out of the backings because I have no superglue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickkkkk Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 good idea, definetly gonna give this a try this in the next week or so. can you not use WD40 for the oil part or am i being a moron? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 good idea, definetly gonna give this a try this in the next week or so. can you not use WD40 for the oil part or am i being a moron?Not advised really, wd40 has minimal lubrication content and is really only usefull as a water dispersant. Better to use normal oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickkkkk Posted April 3, 2009 Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 Not advised really, wd40 has minimal lubrication content and is really only usefull as a water dispersant. Better to use normal oil yep kind of obvious with WD40 being so thin... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2009 yep kind of obvious with WD40 being so thin...Although if you can get hold of a tin of liquid WD40 then it might be worth mixing some with oil and bleeding with that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialschallenger Posted April 4, 2009 Report Share Posted April 4, 2009 (edited) sounds like a great idea think i may have to consider that, although i heard a story(i work on heating systems by the way) years ago these two blokes were tryin to bleed a heating system and couldnt get all the air out so they put a little drop of fairy in it to stop it bubbling(apparently it worked a treat).so would this not have a similar affect in a magura?or would it not happen due to no contact with air?just too add,years and years ago i used to run wd40 in my maggy it works a treat, but you really need to make sure you completly flush the system threw ! ! ! first time i did it i didnt flush it threw. the water and the wd40 conjeeled leaving a white sticky goo and screwing up my maggy.the only reason i scrapped the idea was the cost.we used to spray the wd40 into a large pot and leave it standing for a couple of days to get rid of all the air and bubbles. Edited April 4, 2009 by trialschallenger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazenby Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 come back and tell us how its doing in 10 weeks then ill decide if your a noobie or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickkkkk Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) tried to make my own voodoo from your intructions, basically i couldn't get the oil to seperate from the anti-freeze... think it was either the oil i was using was to thick (car engine diesel oil) or it was the cheapy washing up liquid? either way i'm going back to oil lol Edited April 7, 2009 by Nickkkkk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King C Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 I tried the emulsion a while ago and it works a treat. Very light feel to the lever and its even bright pink where I only had Halfords pink screenwash left I only followed the mix roughly though but it stll works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 I've run pure water in my Magura's for the last 8 odd years and have never had a problem. Nice light lever feel, fast return, no mess, doesn't matter if you get any on your rim/bike and it's also pretty damn cheap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 That works perfect until your slave/lever piston starts to stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted April 7, 2009 Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 That works perfect until your slave/lever piston starts to stick. Still waiting... Current maggy has been going for over 3 years I think with nothing but pure water and it's still light and fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted April 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2009 (edited) I tried the emulsion a while ago and it works a treat. Very light feel to the lever and its even bright pink where I only had Halfords pink screenwash left I only followed the mix roughly though but it stll works great.Glad its worked ok, if you have any problems report back here if you would I've run pure water in my Magura's for the last 8 odd years and have never had a problem. Nice light lever feel, fast return, no mess, doesn't matter if you get any on your rim/bike and it's also pretty damn cheap...I ran the same water bleed for 3 years in a row having switched from oil, then when I started riding trials again last summer I cleaned out my hoses and cylinders and loads of oily crap and gunk came out. Since then bleeding with plain water caused the slave seals to start sticking giving lazy pistons - manually oiling the pistons every 3 weeks or so solved this but it made a nice oily mess on the back of the pads occasionally. So far this is working perfectly for me, same lever feel as plain water but without the necessity to constantly oil the seals. If yours is running ok on water then there is no need to try something else edit:Still waiting... Current maggy has been going for over 3 years I think with nothing but pure water and it's still light and fast.Ah, my slaves are over 10 years old and my RB lever is about 6 years I think Edited April 7, 2009 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King C Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 The only problem I have is trying to bleed it with a blooming great big milk bottle because Im a cheapskate and cant be bothered to buy a syringe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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