531joshua Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Hi, over the past few months when I've been on the forum I've noticed quite a few topics with people asking for help or advice on their cars... maybe a good idea to keep them all in one thread? I could be wrong. Anyway, while I'm here, I have a question about my Renault Megane 1.6 16v, 2001 Mk1 - when the engine's running I can hear a sort of "tapping" noise, very well known to be the tappets but my question is, is it normal for them to make a vague sound (I think oil pressure can affect this, but my oil level is fine and as far as I know my oil pump works fine). It isn't really bad, just if I listen carefully I can hear a tapping noise, particularly when the engine's cold - do tappet-type valves just do this due to the design or are some components worn or is something buggered up?Any input appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Any input appreciated We've got a thread like this somewhere, nobody ever uses it so it's a good job you made this one Meganes should have self adjusting tappets IIRC... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
531joshua Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Like hydraulic, auto adjusting... that's what i'm sure of, hence why i'm confused by them making tapping noises, the engine in my car has only got about 40,000 miles on it, so i shouldn't think any of the valve components are worn? I also changed my gearbox oil today, had some heavy duty, really thick stuff in and i replaced it with 80w/90 stuff that's supposed to be in, although there's still a churning noise coming from the gearbox, thought it would have solved that noise putting the new oil in as any metal shreads causing the churning noise would have came out with the old oil? ..... Any ideas what the churning sound could be?Again, thanks for any help, i appreciate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!()`/D Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 (edited) Are you sure its definatly the gearbox and not the flywheel? Also does your car suffer from any clutch judder? The churning sound you described could be something to do with your flywheel or a warped friction plate in the clutch. Edited February 9, 2009 by !!()`/D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Jones Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 I had this problem with my Corsa. I put it down to very short journeys everyday - not letting the oil warm up properly before turning the engine off again. I made a trip into London and back a week or so ago and the engine hasn't tapped (like described) since. Maybe go for a long motorway drive? Unless of course you do a lot of driving so it might not be the same as me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!()`/D Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Yeah like the above post said, it is actually good for a vehicle to go on a long journey, also a little thrashing doesnt hurt either from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 It's a common problem with diesels and bit torquey V8's, because they don't get rev'd very high the oil doesn't get thrown over the cams so they wear prematurely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
531joshua Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 I don't kill my car everywhere but i enjoy giving it the beans every now and then...... so oil circulation should be ok, i do quite a lot of miles as well usually and never rev the engine stupidly while it's cold (for obvious reasons). As for the churning sound i'm not 100% that it is the gear box, just a guess due to the nature of how it works - what could cause a warped friction plate or flywheel as you say? Just if the clutch takes a hammering and gets very hot?Thanks for all the replies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Check the gearbox oil, if necessary drain it and check for any swarf in the old oil and then refill with some fresh. Try driving along then putting your foot on the clutch and let it coast, or accelerating and then taking your foot off lightly (so the gearbox isn't accelerating) and see if it still makes the noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
531joshua Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Already changed the box oil with some fresh today, couldn't see any metal pieces, although saying that i didn't really have a good check as i drained the oil into a plastic container which i couldn't really see into....Looking like i've warped something Cheers for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
531joshua Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Back onto the subject of noisey tappets - ive been reading some stuff and i think what im gonna try is an engine flush as im due an oil change round about now anyway, see if it gets rid of any gue / deposits, apparently that can effect the noise of the valve lifters....Ill let you all know how i get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Arnold Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 why not try some engine flush/cleaner whilst your at it. you add it to the old oil IIRC and then drain it and add fresh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
531joshua Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 May do an engine flush. Moving back onto the churning noise, as people were saying it could be a warped clutch component, is it possible the noise is my release bearing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robwalker Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 So bar the head gasket going, where else could water and oil be mixing? Also for some reason my water seems to be over compressing and shooting water everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!()`/D Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) May do an engine flush. Moving back onto the churning noise, as people were saying it could be a warped clutch component, is it possible the noise is my release bearing?Doubt it would be the clutch release bearing if it was a 'churning noise'. If it was a clutch release bearing it would make more of a screaming/screeching noise, obviously everytime you released the clutch.QUOTE (Robwalker @ Feb 11 2009, 03:03 PM) So bar the head gasket going, where else could water and oil be mixing? Also for some reason my water seems to be over compressing and shooting water everywhere.This could be the pressure relief valve in the cooling system, what vehicle is it? Edited February 11, 2009 by !!()`/D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robwalker Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Its a S1 106. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
531joshua Posted February 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 Heres some stuff about PRV's, may help you:Pressure Relief Valve ServiceA faulty pressure relief valve can produce oil pressure problems. The valve may be located in the oil pump, filter housing, or engine block. If symptoms point to the pressure relief valve, it should be disassembled and serviced. Cleaning and adjusting is all that is usually required. Remove the cup or cap, holding the pressure relief valve. Then, slide the spring and piston out of their bore. Measure the free length of the spring (length of extended spring) and compare it to the specifications. If the spring is too short or long, install a new spring. Some manufacturers recommend checking spring tension. Use a micrometer and a small hole gauge to check the valve and valve bore wear. Also, check the sides of the valve for scratches or scoring. Replace the parts if any problems are found. Assemble the pressure relief valve. Make sure that the valve is facing correctly in its bore. Slide the spring into place. Install any shims and the cover plug or cap. Refer to the service manual for details. The pressure relief valve may be adjusted in one of two ways. One way is by an adjusting screw (having a jam or locknut) which adds or relives pressure on the spring. The other way is by adjusting shims that are added or removed to adjust opening pressure of the relief valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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