zoster Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 Hi!There are all this topics of quick links vs chain joining, and many say joining the chain is the way to go, but i am a bit skeptic about the pin that's been fooled around by moi to connect the chain. Once back in, I do pound it on the head so that it gets a mushroom shaped tip, but it doesn't seem as sturdy as the tips of the factory made ones, so i'm not so sure if it is actually safer than the quick link (kmc one).But anyway, this isn't a quick link vs chain join thread, this is a thread about how to join your chain properly, considering trials abuse... any take on that?thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 If you're not using a split link, just use a link splitter.Make sure you get the pin into the middle of the link, it's not always easy but if it's not in the middle it will be more likely to come apart at one side on that link.To make a stiff link free, flex the chain with the focus on that link. I hold either part of that link and flex the chain firmly either way, which 9/10 makes it perfectly free.Alternatively, using the link splitter, push the pin in and out from either side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 If you're not using a split link, just use a link splitter.Make sure you get the pin into the middle of the link, it's not always easy but if it's not in the middle it will be more likely to come apart at one side on that link.To make a stiff link free, flex the chain with the focus on that link. I hold either part of that link and flex the chain firmly either way, which 9/10 makes it perfectly free.Alternatively, using the link splitter, push the pin in and out from either side.For once, I have no real reason to reply, that was perfect! Just one thing though, do not pound your chain to make the pins mushroom shaped. Hitting your chain just weakens it, just make sure you put the link back in properly and it will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 Just make sure the same amount of chain pin is sticking out of each side of the link you've joined as all the other links, then the strength will be pretty much the same for BMX chains (Where the rivets don't seem to be mushroomed at all). Some chain tools have a second set of pins higher up than pair you put the chain in to open it to allow you to loosen stiff links if the flexing the chain sideways trick doesn't work. For 8/9 speed chains I'd trust a SRAM powerlink more than I'd trust reassembling it with a chain tool, but I've not had bad experiences with either method so far... I wouldn't go back to a 8/9 speed chain on my trials bike again though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 i suck at fitting chains and i always find the plate on the far side of the pin gets deformed as the pin doesn't meet the hole. any ideas ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstein Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 i suck at fitting chains and i always find the plate on the far side of the pin gets deformed as the pin doesn't meet the hole. any ideas ?You are using the wrong tool. You need a singlespeed tool to stop this happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 How far do you push the pin out when you're breaking the chain? There should be a half mm or so left sticking into the centre of the link - push it out too far and it can flex off line as you start to push it back. Next thing is don't force the pin through, wiggle the chain around and look into the hole in the outer link plate to confirm alignment as you close the chain. Sometimes you'll have to back the chain tool off and reposition the chain slightly to maintain alignment as you push the link back. It should take at most only slightly more force to replace the pin as it took to remove it in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoster Posted February 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 thanks for all the replies! my actual question would be how to flatten the tip of the pin that has been moved around. sstein says you shouldn't , you should just leave it as it is, but i' not so sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 If you're really worried about it get a centre punch and hammer that into the centre of the pin in the link you're joining. This should have the effect of flaring the end of the chain pin, making it a bit harder for it to come apart. Rohloff do a chain tool costing over £100 that is supposed to mushroom the end of the chain pins after joining, but I haven't seen any detail as to how it does this in reviews so I can't decide whether it's marketing hype or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumplestiltskin Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 If you're really worried about it get a centre punch and hammer that into the centre of the pin in the link you're joining. This should have the effect of flaring the end of the chain pin, making it a bit harder for it to come apart. Rohloff do a chain tool costing over £100 that is supposed to mushroom the end of the chain pins after joining, but I haven't seen any detail as to how it does this in reviews so I can't decide whether it's marketing hype or not.Danny Mac's got this. It really is the Rolls Royce of chain tools. I didn't pay much attention to it's workings, but it does mushroom the pin heads after joining. The only downside is it weighs so much, you're likely to need a friend to help lift it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 Lol, f**k that.Remember this:You don't want to shorten a chain and then have to put more links back in. More DIY joins mean more weak spots.The best way is to shorten it ONCE to the exact right length, and use the powerlink. The powerlink doesn't have the weak point of rejoined links, and if it DOES snap, it's pretty easy to replace, just stick a new one in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LauraPalmer Posted February 6, 2009 Report Share Posted February 6, 2009 thanks for all the replies! my actual question would be how to flatten the tip of the pin that has been moved around. sstein says you shouldn't , you should just leave it as it is, but i' not so surewhat you are really looking for is a Rohloff Revolver - a chain tool which which forms the pin after its pulled through... expensive, but very functional Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ti-mig-guy Posted February 19, 2009 Report Share Posted February 19, 2009 I would guess that any good bike shop would have a tool for this. The DIY tools most riders own are never going to mushroom the pin. My LBS has a great big bolt cutter looking tool that does it perfect. DO NOT HIT IT WITH ANYTHING! You are only asking for injury, if you bend the link, then bend it back it is now at least 50% weaker then before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.