NVWOCI WVS Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Right, my front end feels a bit low, but the stem is right to the top (and then some) of the steerer tube. Does anyone have the kit/skillz to lop the top of my steerer tube off and tig weld a new section back in? Seen it done before, just a question of finding someone who can weld to a level I can trust, otherwise I'd do it myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shamus Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 otherwise find someone who is prepared to swap with shorter steerer forks! then no-one has bodged forks or weak areas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVWOCI WVS Posted January 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 otherwise find someone who is prepared to swap with shorter steerer forks! then no-one has bodged forks or weak areas!They wont be bodged, I'l get them welded properly and they'll be plenty string enough if theyre done well. I Don't want to swap my forks either, they're pretty special: Theyre Pasheys which have been Clived. He made a disc mount and brazed it on. They're too rare to get rid of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liam-pantera Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 you could easily get them welded up and as long as you used a headlock device you should be fine . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Just get higher bars/stem or new forks. Welding extra steerer onto the forks sounds like a bad idea to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Nick Riviera Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Told you the bars were too low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christophe' Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Just get higher bars/stem or new forks. Welding extra steerer onto the forks sounds like a bad idea to me!Tis fine Dave!Mines been ok, not like your welding the centre section is it! 15mm, no more i'd say.And also, saying welding steel is a bad idea is kinda like saying welding a frame together is a bad idea There are parts on your bike that I wouldnt trust with my life! ie your love for deng/trialtech cranks. heheClive and middleburn ***.xx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Tis fine Dave!Mines been ok, not like your welding the centre section is it! 15mm, no more i'd say.And also, saying welding steel is a bad idea is kinda like saying welding a frame together is a bad idea There are parts on your bike that I wouldnt trust with my life! ie your love for deng/trialtech cranks. heheClive and middleburn ***.xxThere was no mention of steel... I assumed alloy because all the cool kids use aluminium forks. Still not ideal though, unless you get it done very well in which case you may as well spend the money on new forks or whatever.And there's nothing wrong with Trialtech cranks at all. Ok not as posh as Middleburn but I'm pretty sure you could trust your life with them .Inspired and Trialtech ftw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eduardo Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 (edited) Just get a higher stem? it will be safer and probs cost the same amount lol. Edited January 18, 2009 by Eduardo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish-Finger-er Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 i wouldnt worry to much, id cut them in the centre, stick a 20 mm section in there, drill the steerer in a few places, and put a sleeve in there then reweld, both around the joins, and then through the holes in the steerer, turned up nice and high so it penetrates, will be fine. The 3 bits arent gunna split, because of all the welds holding them to sleeve, and the whole lot cant snap in the middle really anyway, as theres a sleeve. and steerers dont normally go in the middle.Its common in autograss and the like, to cut driveshafts, then join them with the welding through holes method, to get the 2 correct ends and the correct length and if it holds 400+ bhp v8 american CORR style buggy driveshafts together itll do for a steerer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christophe' Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 There was no mention of steel... I assumed alloy because all the cool kids use aluminium forks. Still not ideal though, unless you get it done very well in which case you may as well spend the money on new forks or whatever.And there's nothing wrong with Trialtech cranks at all. Ok not as posh as Middleburn but I'm pretty sure you could trust your life with them .Inspired and Trialtech ftw.pash forks are steel dave, always have been......and to answer the original topic starter. Clive leeson is the only person I know that could make you steerer longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonMack Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 There was no mention of steel...What about the thread title, "Pashley forks" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVWOCI WVS Posted January 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 I assumed alloy because all the cool kids use aluminium forks.does this make me a 'cool kid'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Shrewsbury Posted January 18, 2009 Report Share Posted January 18, 2009 Get hold of clive leeson, he exstendered my forks on the steerer, and they lasted for years. He puts a pin in and welds another peice of steerer to it. Turned out great, and does the job. Or if u didnt want to do that get a thomson stem 90/15. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 pash forks are steel dave, always have been......What about the thread title, "Pashley forks" I swear the thread title must've changed... :$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 And also, saying welding steel is a bad idea is kinda like saying welding a frame together is a bad idea Sort of, but if someone suggested that they chop my downtube in two and re-weld it in the middle of the tube, I'd tell them where to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 Assuming it's not going to be extended by a ridiculous amount it should be fine really, especially if done well (read: actually thought about), as there's likely to still be a load of the original steerer in the stem being clamped too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted January 19, 2009 Report Share Posted January 19, 2009 (edited) I did it to my pash forks sam, and they have been fine I mig welded them though as i dont have a tig at home. I found it was better to cut my steerer about halfway through its length (because then you have a perfectly smooth area where you clamp your stem), then reinforce it with some tube in the centre, put in the new bit of steerer, then weld it all togther and smooth it For the reinforcement tubing, a pair of steel handlebars cut down are the correct size to perfectly wedge inside the pashley steerer tube, just a case of finding another pair of forks with the same size steerer (which i conveniently had).EDIT: oh and i added about 30grams in the process Edited January 19, 2009 by Paul Oliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVWOCI WVS Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 I did it to my pash forks sam, and they have been fine I mig welded them though as i dont have a tig at home. I found it was better to cut my steerer about halfway through its length (because then you have a perfectly smooth area where you clamp your stem), then reinforce it with some tube in the centre, put in the new bit of steerer, then weld it all togther and smooth it For the reinforcement tubing, a pair of steel handlebars cut down are the correct size to perfectly wedge inside the pashley steerer tube, just a case of finding another pair of forks with the same size steerer (which i conveniently had).EDIT: oh and i added about 30grams in the processThat sounds perfect. I dont mind the tiny bit of added weight. I have some old, bent BMX handlebars at home, and some old BMX forks for donor steerer tube. I could just do it myself using the arc welder... Should be ok I guess. Cheers for the input, guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 The suggestion above of putting a few holes in the steerer and welding through those is a good one too - it means that if a crack forms in one weld the fork should hold together and just get creaky/rattly to give you warning rather than just letting go. Steel is better at not failing suddenly and catastrophically anyway though, so it's not critical. Keeping the steerer straight as you weld it will take a bit of work though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVWOCI WVS Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 The suggestion above of putting a few holes in the steerer and welding through those is a good one too - it means that if a crack forms in one weld the fork should hold together and just get creaky/rattly to give you warning rather than just letting go. Steel is better at not failing suddenly and catastrophically anyway though, so it's not critical. Keeping the steerer straight as you weld it will take a bit of work though...I'll clamp it all up really well or make a kindof jig. Thanks for the help. Will probably sort it out when I go home at Easter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christophe' Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 The suggestion above of putting a few holes in the steerer and welding through those is a good one too - it means that if a crack forms in one weld the fork should hold together and just get creaky/rattly to give you warning rather than just letting go. Steel is better at not failing suddenly and catastrophically anyway though, so it's not critical. Keeping the steerer straight as you weld it will take a bit of work though...Braze I would think?Thats how clive does it anyhows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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