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Extendiong The Steerer Tube Of Some Pashley Forks...


NVWOCI WVS

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Right, my front end feels a bit low, but the stem is right to the top (and then some) of the steerer tube. Does anyone have the kit/skillz to lop the top of my steerer tube off and tig weld a new section back in? Seen it done before, just a question of finding someone who can weld to a level I can trust, otherwise I'd do it myself :P

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otherwise find someone who is prepared to swap with shorter steerer forks! then no-one has bodged forks or weak areas!

They wont be bodged, I'l get them welded properly and they'll be plenty string enough if theyre done well. I Don't want to swap my forks either, they're pretty special: Theyre Pasheys which have been Clived. He made a disc mount and brazed it on. They're too rare to get rid of.

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Just get higher bars/stem or new forks. Welding extra steerer onto the forks sounds like a bad idea to me!

Tis fine Dave!

Mines been ok, not like your welding the centre section is it! 15mm, no more i'd say.

And also, saying welding steel is a bad idea is kinda like saying welding a frame together is a bad idea :P

There are parts on your bike that I wouldnt trust with my life! ie your love for deng/trialtech cranks. hehe

Clive and middleburn ***.

xx

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Tis fine Dave!

Mines been ok, not like your welding the centre section is it! 15mm, no more i'd say.

And also, saying welding steel is a bad idea is kinda like saying welding a frame together is a bad idea :P

There are parts on your bike that I wouldnt trust with my life! ie your love for deng/trialtech cranks. hehe

Clive and middleburn ***.

xx

There was no mention of steel... I assumed alloy because all the cool kids use aluminium forks. Still not ideal though, unless you get it done very well in which case you may as well spend the money on new forks or whatever.

And there's nothing wrong with Trialtech cranks at all. Ok not as posh as Middleburn but I'm pretty sure you could trust your life with them ;) .

Inspired and Trialtech ftw.

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i wouldnt worry to much, id cut them in the centre, stick a 20 mm section in there, drill the steerer in a few places, and put a sleeve in there then reweld, both around the joins, and then through the holes in the steerer, turned up nice and high so it penetrates, will be fine.

The 3 bits arent gunna split, because of all the welds holding them to sleeve, and the whole lot cant snap in the middle really anyway, as theres a sleeve. and steerers dont normally go in the middle.

Its common in autograss and the like, to cut driveshafts, then join them with the welding through holes method, to get the 2 correct ends and the correct length and if it holds 400+ bhp v8 american CORR style buggy driveshafts together itll do for a steerer.

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There was no mention of steel... I assumed alloy because all the cool kids use aluminium forks. Still not ideal though, unless you get it done very well in which case you may as well spend the money on new forks or whatever.

And there's nothing wrong with Trialtech cranks at all. Ok not as posh as Middleburn but I'm pretty sure you could trust your life with them ;) .

Inspired and Trialtech ftw.

pash forks are steel dave, always have been......

and to answer the original topic starter. Clive leeson is the only person I know that could make you steerer longer.

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And also, saying welding steel is a bad idea is kinda like saying welding a frame together is a bad idea :P

Sort of, but if someone suggested that they chop my downtube in two and re-weld it in the middle of the tube, I'd tell them where to go.

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I did it to my pash forks sam, and they have been fine :) I mig welded them though as i dont have a tig at home. I found it was better to cut my steerer about halfway through its length (because then you have a perfectly smooth area where you clamp your stem), then reinforce it with some tube in the centre, put in the new bit of steerer, then weld it all togther and smooth it :) For the reinforcement tubing, a pair of steel handlebars cut down are the correct size to perfectly wedge inside the pashley steerer tube, just a case of finding another pair of forks with the same size steerer (which i conveniently had).

EDIT: oh and i added about 30grams in the process

Edited by Paul Oliver
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I did it to my pash forks sam, and they have been fine :) I mig welded them though as i dont have a tig at home. I found it was better to cut my steerer about halfway through its length (because then you have a perfectly smooth area where you clamp your stem), then reinforce it with some tube in the centre, put in the new bit of steerer, then weld it all togther and smooth it :) For the reinforcement tubing, a pair of steel handlebars cut down are the correct size to perfectly wedge inside the pashley steerer tube, just a case of finding another pair of forks with the same size steerer (which i conveniently had).

EDIT: oh and i added about 30grams in the process

That sounds perfect. I dont mind the tiny bit of added weight. I have some old, bent BMX handlebars at home, and some old BMX forks for donor steerer tube. I could just do it myself using the arc welder... Should be ok I guess. Cheers for the input, guys.

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The suggestion above of putting a few holes in the steerer and welding through those is a good one too - it means that if a crack forms in one weld the fork should hold together and just get creaky/rattly to give you warning rather than just letting go. Steel is better at not failing suddenly and catastrophically anyway though, so it's not critical. Keeping the steerer straight as you weld it will take a bit of work though...

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The suggestion above of putting a few holes in the steerer and welding through those is a good one too - it means that if a crack forms in one weld the fork should hold together and just get creaky/rattly to give you warning rather than just letting go. Steel is better at not failing suddenly and catastrophically anyway though, so it's not critical. Keeping the steerer straight as you weld it will take a bit of work though...

I'll clamp it all up really well or make a kindof jig. Thanks for the help. Will probably sort it out when I go home at Easter.

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The suggestion above of putting a few holes in the steerer and welding through those is a good one too - it means that if a crack forms in one weld the fork should hold together and just get creaky/rattly to give you warning rather than just letting go. Steel is better at not failing suddenly and catastrophically anyway though, so it's not critical. Keeping the steerer straight as you weld it will take a bit of work though...

Braze I would think?

Thats how clive does it anyhows.

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