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Square Hole Rim


onzatrip

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Cheapest way is to get a file and get started! Unfortunatly it is pretty much the only way to do it, unless you have access to a milling machine (Which i have, and is how i did mine) you can use a drill to drill where you want the corner of the squares to be, then drill out as much material as possible then tidy it all up with the file.

A picture of mine which i did with a milling machine:

p8290048ft9.jpg

p8290050pb8.jpg

Using the milling machine still took a while 3-4 hrs per rim, but it was alot less effort! (I folded the rear one :( but wanna do another with slightly smaller holes.)

Adam

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Cheapest way is to get a file and get started! Unfortunatly it is pretty much the only way to do it, unless you have access to a milling machine (Which i have, and is how i did mine) you can use a drill to drill where you want the corner of the squares to be, then drill out as much material as possible then tidy it all up with the file.

A picture of mine which i did with a milling machine:

p8290048ft9.jpg

p8290050pb8.jpg

Using the milling machine still took a while 3-4 hrs per rim, but it was alot less effort! (I folded the rear one :( but wanna do another with slightly smaller holes.)

Adam

thanks adam i dont have a milling machine lol but il do it with a file :D

how much weight do you normaly lose ??

thanks

tris x

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...mine which i did with a milling machine...

Great job , looks really neat . Tris - be aware that while Bigman's holes may well be square , you'll note that the edges are somewhat rounded off and I'm sure Mr.B did so deliberately to avoid allowing stress risers to accumulate at the edges .

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I made an exact copy of Bigman's rear rim with his help and it's been fine so far. In fact I'm thinking about making the holes much bigger. Mine currently weighs around 635g.

It all depends on how you ride, if you think you're smooth the best way would be to get hold of someone who will CNC it for you and have a few rims made at once. Doing those rims with a file is a nightmare, you'll be lucky to finish it in 8 hours if you work non-stop. To be honest, it's the most tiring thing I've done in my whole life.

As for the edges, they don't need rounding off. I've been riding square holed rims for over 2 years and had no problems with them cracking at the edges. It's obviously more mechanically sound but I wouldn't bother.

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hey people i want to turn the holes on my tryall rim square

could anyone tell me how to do it ?

thanks

tris x

Don't. The weight difference will be un-noticeable but the difference in strength will be, especially whilst you are learning. My advice is to leave your rims the way they are made, if you really want square holes get rims made like that.

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As for the edges, they don't need rounding off. I've been riding square holed rims for over 2 years and had no problems with them cracking at the edges. It's obviously more mechanically sound but I wouldn't bother.

You're probably right, when you think about it the stress isn't acting to stretch/compress the corner unlike if (for some crazy reason) you had diamonds instead of squares.

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I know you can do it, but idon't want to start a new topic.

How would i go about drilling an undrilled rim (apart from the obvious drilling bit)

What drill bit would i need? doesnt matter on the size but i have no idea what variety of bit i need.

Is there anyway to keep the holes central? Or is it all guesswork as such?

Thanks, Davey.

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what id do, personally is make up a lil template.....

so have a piece of metal shaped liek this: [----- -----]..the two [ bits sit in the spoke holes, and the hole in the centre allows you to centre punch in exactly the right place

Obviously the lil hig thing has to be made up uber accurately, nut it will work

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thanks adam i dont have a milling machine lol but il do it with a file :D

how much weight do you normaly lose ??

thanks

tris x

The front rim started out as 580g and ended up as 483g, so pretty much a 100g loss (rim already had 25mm circle holes when i started) the rear was a trialtech undrilled, so around 800g ish i think and it ended up as 614g which is very light, even lighter than the single walled try all hOle rims!! I am thinking of doing another in the next few months, and making it last a little longer :P (got to have matching rims!)

Don't. The weight difference will be un-noticeable but the difference in strength will be, especially whilst you are learning. My advice is to leave your rims the way they are made, if you really want square holes get rims made like that.

Weight difference is noticable, i went from a try-all rim with 25mm holes to the large square hole rim and it was deffinatly noticable, it is more the difference in the rotational weight of the rim, meaning that it takes less effort to get it to spin/move.

I know you can do it, but idon't want to start a new topic.

How would i go about drilling an undrilled rim (apart from the obvious drilling bit)

What drill bit would i need? doesnt matter on the size but i have no idea what variety of bit i need.

Is there anyway to keep the holes central? Or is it all guesswork as such?

Thanks, Davey.

Drilling an undrill rim is simple, best way i have found is to use a small pillar drill, but it is also possible to use a hand drill, but if you use a hand drill i would recomend going around the rim measureing the centres and centre punching them so the drill goes where you want it to, drill size all depends on the rim that you are going to drill, something like a D521 can take up to a 17mm ish i think, my DX32 rims usualy had 25mm holes but i have seen them with bigger.

As for the type of drill, any normal drill bit will work, but they will only go up to around 13mm, but check you drill as some only have a chuck that will fit up to 10mm, if you want to go bigger a hole saw is needed, which requires you to buy and arbour (sp?) and then the appropriate size hole saw for it.

Adam

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To add to Bigmans post, scribe a line between each hole and then centre punch the middle of the line (or make a template as said). Hand drill works fine if you have a vice (use soft jaws or a rag). Pilot drill say 4mm and then move up to 10mm or whatever you want to end up with. If you only have a 10mm chuck try and find someone with larger drill bits with the shank machined down.

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