Sethgun Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Hi guys.So ive just built up an inspired fourplay and have hs33 on the rear. I rebled them yesterday with baby oil submerged, no air from what I can see but still they dont really bite. Ive got them mounted about 2mm from the rim yet they arent locking up my rear. I haven't grinded the rear yet, so im guessing that would be my next stop, but still i was expecting that if i gave it a nice push down on the pedals it would stay locked. Also thats with my TPA adjusted pretty high + (i know i shoudnt be using that with new pads). Also, is it normal for the slave to push out a little lagged than the master? When i have the brakes off the bike and pull lever down the whole way, the slave doesnt come out as far as the master, im guessing that as the oil is passing through the master and into the slave it lags across the crossover pipe? I know that once the master hits the rim the slave is gonna bite down as quick as the oil can get through the crossover, but im just not getting why these new brakes arent biting as hard as what my old rubbish brakes on my old mongoose freestyle used to...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Willis Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 You made need some new pistons.Make sure you have followed the how to bleed magura brakes on the trials wiki propley, make sure the completly underwater when doing up the bolts.Hope this helpsAndy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve@banbury-trials Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 what pads are you running ?i bet its the pads thats causing the lack of brake power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 I would check:That your not using standard black padsThat the pads/rim are clean and have not got any oil on them from the bleedThat the pads are hitting nice and square to the rim, both in terms of hitting the rim fully and hitting the rim squarelyThat you have set up the cylinders so that you do not need any TPA wound on (its turbo pad adjustment, and meant to be used to make up for wear until you get the cylinders adjusted closer)Finally check the bleed again, make certain that you have not got any air in the linesIn terms of one pad hitting before the other, they tend to do that, it does not massively affect performance. It can be sorted by using a monty hose splitter, but that also means a new cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pogo Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 What year is it, the seals may be gone at the lever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben John-Hynes Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Simple question: Are you SURE you're bleeding them right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor Powell Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 Could be you have bad pads, or you have a contamiated rim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sethgun Posted January 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 they are brand new hs33s from tarty, http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...;category_id=72and the pads are rock pads blue http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...p;category_id=4pads are made for ground rims and really squeal when the pads are locking. Might give the pads that came with the hs33s another go before i grind the rims. Would using pads for ground rims on a non ground rim make such a big difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Posted January 3, 2009 Report Share Posted January 3, 2009 they are brand new hs33s from tarty, http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...;category_id=72and the pads are rock pads blue http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...p;category_id=4pads are made for ground rims and really squeal when the pads are locking. Might give the pads that came with the hs33s another go before i grind the rims. Would using pads for ground rims on a non ground rim make such a big difference?I'm pretty sure I have heard of people using those pads on smooth rims before, so their performance should at least be okayish. I think it must be your bleed dude, unless you can see oil seeping out from somewhere? Try it again man, and consier doing a water bleed, it'll give you a better lever feel, plus it'll mean that you can fill the bucket right up to ensure the brake is submerged completly, which I dont know how you could be doing with oil. I have been running a water bleed for a couple years now in the same brake with no problems, and I'm sure there are others that have been doing so longer than I. If you do change to water, make sure you pass plenty through the brake to flush out all the oil. When you re-bleed use the following guide from wiki:Bleeding Maguras in a bucket or a bathFill the bucket or the bath full of water.Take the brake off of your bike and put it in the bucket/bath.Undo both bleed bolts, the one on the lever and the one on the slave. (Underwater)The method is tricky at first, but once you have the rhythm, it will take a minute at maximum.Underwater: hold your finger over the hole on the slave cylinder (remember, when you have your finger on the hole, make sure it is tight and sealed against the hole, other wise it will take longer to bleed and may effect performance), press the lever all the way down, then hold your finger over the hole on the lever body, take your finger off the hole on the slave cylinder and release the lever fully, repeat until you no longer see any air coming out.Do up both of the bleed bolts. (Again, underwater)Take the brake out and it should be air free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sethgun Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 I'm pretty sure I have heard of people using those pads on smooth rims before, so their performance should at least be okayish. I think it must be your bleed dude, unless you can see oil seeping out from somewhere? Try it again man, and consier doing a water bleed, it'll give you a better lever feel, plus it'll mean that you can fill the bucket right up to ensure the brake is submerged completly, which I dont know how you could be doing with oil. I have been running a water bleed for a couple years now in the same brake with no problems, and I'm sure there are others that have been doing so longer than I. If you do change to water, make sure you pass plenty through the brake to flush out all the oil. When you re-bleed use the following guide from wiki:thanks elliot, ill rip them off again tonight and do a water bleed. I used baby oil, but couldnt find a fragrance free one. It was enough to fully submerge in a small bucket but real awkward to get my fingers in to plug up the hole. when doing it does it matter if the lever and the slave is sitting in the bottom of the bucket, or should i be holding the lever up higher (as air rises)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sethgun Posted January 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 Wow, I must have been on drugs thinking I bled them right with the baby oil. Just ripped them off again and bled in a bucket of water......they are awesome now. TPA is all the way in and they stop on a dime, with the original magura pads and no grind. Hate to think how much stronger they are with the rock pads and a light grind Thanks for the feedback and help, really appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pudding Posted January 4, 2009 Report Share Posted January 4, 2009 I had this same problem. But here are other options. Stick some better pads on and add some tar. Re-bleed with water, because it sounds like you havent got enough fluid in. If that doesnt work wind your tpa a bit in, not all the way out because I wound my tpa all the way out then bled and the pistons maxxed out, causing no bite. You might have a leak. go round tighten all botls, its most likely to be your bleed bolt, It always used to happen to me after bleeding. And the other option you might have lazy pistions or a problem inside the pistons due to the baby oil. So flush all the crap out of the pistons by taking them apart so theres no crossover etc then stick a bleed tube into the hole of the cylinder and attach a track pump to the tube then blow all the crap out of the pistons, because you might have mixed two liquids together and there causing a blockage.Either on of those should help. But if not give me your msn and I'll give you more info!Cheers Pudd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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