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tipsy Jock

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Yay and Nay, the speed limits still 60, a vts will still do 60, if a vts will slow down for the corner, that car at the same speed will slow down for the same corner.

If its built for the strip, brakes arent really that bigger deal, they need to slow you down, thats as far as it gets...

Its only when its being used on a track really(or under unsafe driving on a public road, that its going to need bigger brakes)

and having spent £6000 doing up the engine, i dont think your going to have £2000 spare to sort the brakes

Common Kev, you're not going to spend all that money on an engine then stick exactly to all speed limits are you? Ultimately, you modify your car to make it faster.

and it's not about ultimate speed, it's STILL about acceleration.

Take 2 roundabouts for example, a 120bhp VTS may be able to take each roundabout at 40mph, it may also be able to reach 60 between the two roundabouts before braking back down to 40 for the turn.

The 300bhp saxo may well reach 90 between those same two roundabouts, but can still only take the corners at 40, so it needs bigger brakes to slow it down to the same speed.

You're probably going to say he can just start braking earlier, but of course, that isn't the point, as we dont make our cars faster just so we can start braking sooner do we?

i wouldn't be so sure, i can lock up the wheels on my bog standard mk4 polo at any speed, which is more than enough braking force imo.

sure get bigger brakes if you want to be lazy with your foot, or maybe if you're guna be ragging it for mile upon mile, but otherwise standard brakes suffice in my book.

Will

same as above really, standard brakes on a modified (for performance) car are simply dangerous, and there are no two ways about it.

they may stop you once, maybe even twice, but standard brakes over heat and fade easily, in just about all cars.

My audi standard brakes, even with uprated pads and drilled/grooved discs simply wern't up to the job of stopping it with 200bhp. They over heated very easily, without driving dangerously at all. the same applies to my Mini 8.4's with drilled/grooved discs and ebc greenstuff pads. even they overheated easily, and wern't great for anything other than mildly fast road.

As for locking up the polo wheels, I'm sure you can. Remember it's got shitty small tyres too, which offer little friction. so long as the brakes are better than the tyres, you will always be able to lock up wheels.

try getting some wider/better tyres on there, and I bet you won't lock them up half as easily.

As for high powered FWD cars, it all really depends on how well the chassis and suspension can cope with the power.

my audi runs just under 300lbft (remember it's torque that causes all the problems!) and in the dry it has no trouble at all putting the power down.

In the wet, 1st and 2nd gear are useless, and 3rd needs caution comming off roundabouts, but generally speaking, it's fairly managable, and you learn to use the power sensibly.

I've been running that power in the audi as a dailly driver for the last year with no real issues

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out of interest, not lookin to start an another argument do people here really think massive power ie 300bhp + is a good idea in fwd cars

300bhp is NOT massive power.

It's not hard to drive a high power FWD car, it's bloody fun if you know what your doing. For instance, I drove my mates 9K with a proven 400BHP at the wheels the other day. And it was no harder to drive than my stock 900 turbo. Until you put your foot down then you had to think about what your are doing.

As has been said, the power is manageable as long as you've got the chassis to put it down.

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i can see it would be nice in a straight line, espcially overtaking and so on but surely trying to squeeze power on out of a corner and other bits where precise throttle control is required has got to be a festival of torque steer even with a carefully designed torque curve. combined with the fact that most of the cars related will have relativly small engines which need alot of FI to get that sort of power and big turbos rarely lead to precise throttle

or am i just being a negative nora

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You wouldn't leave standard brakes on a mini with a monster turbo engine would you?

Say whaaat? ^_^

300bhp is NOT massive power.

Surely the power output is only relative when your talking about weight aswell?? 300bhp in a 2tonne car is going to be preety standard, 300bhp in a 750kg car is going to be lairy as f**k.

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i can see it would be nice in a straight line, espcially overtaking and so on but surely trying to squeeze power on out of a corner and other bits where precise throttle control is required has got to be a festival of torque steer even with a carefully designed torque curve. combined with the fact that most of the cars related will have relativly small engines which need alot of FI to get that sort of power and big turbos rarely lead to precise throttle

I know what you're saying, and it makes a lot of sense.

My A3 is a 1.8 20 valve, and instead of a big lairy turbo, it runs a very small turbo, at very high boost. It actually gives remarkably good throttle response comming out of corners if you feed the throttle in gently. If you mash it then get scared and back off things get a bit interesting, as you get a big whack of boost, then it drops and starts to rebuild when you back off, and that's not smooth, or fun at all. Once that's happened, you can forget getting the power down properly.

If you're careful with it though, you can ease the boost in to the point where you can basicly feel you're on maximum traction, and you know not to floor it any more until you've straightened up

generally speaking, I'll aim to see about 10psi of boost as I pass the apex of a bend, building it up to the full 20 or so by the time I've straightened out totally

Say whaaat? ^_^

you know what I think about your S discs! They're Whoafully inadequate!

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Surely the power output is only relative when your talking about weight aswell?? 300bhp in a 2tonne car is going to be preety standard, 300bhp in a 750kg car is going to be lairy as f**k.

That is a fair point, but it has it's plus and minus's in each of the weights.

As has been said, if you know what your doing and drive to the condition and your own ability I can't see how 300BHP can be a problem.

Look at the power that can be got into a mini ? Turbo'd redtops and stuff like that, fair enough there a hand full but theres a fair few of them about.

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That is a fair point, but it has it's plus and minus's in each of the weights.

As has been said, if you know what your doing and drive to the condition and your own ability I can't see how 300BHP can be a problem.

Look at the power that can be got into a mini ? Turbo'd redtops and stuff like that, fair enough there a hand full but theres a fair few of them about.

And how many of them are running drums? :-

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And how many of them are running drums? :-

None of them.

But I don't think that was the question was it ? I thought the question was is 300BHP stupid in a FWD car, which it clearly isn't if the rest of the car has been modified/designed to cope with the power and that the driver doesn't share brain-cells with a tea cosy.

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Thought it was huge power increases without upgrading brakes.

All the while Im not that bothered (or knowledgeable) so Ill just stay out from now.

The inadequate brakes was wayyyy back on the Saxo, we were talking about the stock-ness of them but now I think were on about the going not the stopping.

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i'm up shit creek.

his mazda is worth around 2k. which i can't afford.

my cars had between 500-1k damage, depending on availiablility of secondhand/new bits.

question is, do i go through insurance or not!

NO.

Do what ever you can not to go through insurance.

f**k the Pug, get HIM sorted then just rebuild the peugeot. You really don't need a claim on your record....

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Since i put my new engine in my 2001 Renault megane 1.6 16v, the ideling never stays constant, with other car's i've been in it isn't perfectly still but close enough. Mine alternates about 300RPM up or down usually..... I heard a "buzzing" sort of noise coming from the engine bay and i narrowed it down to being this sensor (unsure of the name) on part of the airbox, took it off, cleaned it up but it still buzzes frequently and im thinking this could be something to do with the tickover being dodgy, if it's some sort of idle control valve?

Any ideas on what the problem could be?

Any help much appreciated everyone!

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