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New Pashley Frame


Gogz-

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The forks are the way they are for a bunch of reasons. Firstly, I found with hooks especially, the disc brake forces actually shift the wheel in the dropout. To fix it either meant changing the dropout completely, or just brazing the mount on the other side... so we took the latter option, and it works great. The wheel no longer shifts in the dropouts as a result of disk brake forces. Theres also obvious plus points, like the caliper being a bit more protected, and funky looks.

Hope thats all made sense!

Tim.

When was the wheel moving in the dropout during the hook? I'm wondering because for normal use, having the caliper at the back of the fork leg leads to the wheel coming out of the dropouts during braking while rolling forward. Putting the caliper on the front of the leg means the disk pushes the wheel more firmly into the dropout during braking while rolling forwards.

The peak brake force during a hook is presumably when the front wheel has hooked over the top of the ledge and you hang backwards off the bike by the front wheel before hopping onto the ledge. This loads the brake backwards (Which for a normal caliper forces the wheel more firmly into the dropouts). Based on this thinking, the caliper location on the Pashleys is better for every use but trials...

Cotic also make a rigid fork with the disk mount on the front of the fork leg, but the reason they do it is to allow standard full length mudguards to be fitted to the front fork.

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When was the wheel moving in the dropout during the hook? I'm wondering because for normal use, having the caliper at the back of the fork leg leads to the wheel coming out of the dropouts during braking while rolling forward. Putting the caliper on the front of the leg means the disk pushes the wheel more firmly into the dropout during braking while rolling forwards.

The peak brake force during a hook is presumably when the front wheel has hooked over the top of the ledge and you hang backwards off the bike by the front wheel before hopping onto the ledge. This loads the brake backwards (Which for a normal caliper forces the wheel more firmly into the dropouts). Based on this thinking, the caliper location on the Pashleys is better for every use but trials...

Cotic also make a rigid fork with the disk mount on the front of the fork leg, but the reason they do it is to allow standard full length mudguards to be fitted to the front fork.

The location on the caliper actually means that the braking force tries to shift the wheel either forwards or backwards in the dropout. With the 'normal' design, depending on which way the braking force goes, it either move the hub in or out of the dropout. The change in position complete cured the issue for me. Being a little heavier than your average rider, the problem actually occured quite regularly with the standard setup. The new position actually makes it better for all uses, especially trials, as it can never shift the wheel.

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I didn't think you were supposed to use the brakes when hooking. And my wheels never move in my dropouts whatever I'm doing... Having said that, if that's what Tim says then I trust his word!

I'm disappointed they went away from the tear-drop shaped downtube, but only for the old skool MHz-ness!

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Tim: Nice - so the caliper ends up more or less directly above the axle? I only looked at the pictures of the fork, not the fork with a disk caliper fitted. That location sounds like where they probably should have been put all along :)...

Monkeysee: If you don't use the front brake hooking then how can you pull down on the bars to stretch the fork out to spring you up without just falling backwards?

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Monkeysee: If you don't use the front brake hooking then how can you pull down on the bars to stretch the fork out to spring you up without just falling backwards?

But hooks aren't two distinct movements of hooking the front wheel, stopping, then springing up to the top- your body should make one fluid movement so the momentum is maintained and the bike continues travelling upwards and forwards onto the step. To be honest I don't really know what I'm talking about as I'm not that great at hooks but I'm sure Rowan told me once that if you do it right you shouldn't be pulling the brake. Shouldn't really trust a postie though to be fair...

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I think there may be a discrepancy on what's being described. By front hooks I'm meaning bunnyhopping/pedalling into a big step so the front wheel lands on top then flicking the bike up and forwards onto both wheels or the rear wheel in one move. That can be done without a front brake. However, a static hook where you just hang off the forks before springing up obviously will need a front brake in most cases and may be what others are getting at.

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I think the colour looks great, its be good to see more vibrant coloured frames again....

For those really bothered by the dropout Im sure you can still buy a 'breakaway bolt' (Im sure I dont need to explain). Only thing that put me off is the price (I cant stretch £500 on a frame - I just dont ride enough for it to be worth it, although I do appreciate a bike like that will last) ...and you have to keep an eye on scratches more than an alu as it'll rust if not re-coated....other than that looks great to me! :)

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I think its stunning, I'd grind the mech hanger off and run a 74 kingz though.

+1.

And it's steel!!!!! (Y)

Frame does look wierd though. Theres 2 quite thin seat tubes and the TT has a random bend in it.

Any built up pics??

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Hi, ...erm...i've just recently been validated to the members forum, what the bejesus are you all talking about?

All these posts are going over my head like a Topol SS 27 missile!

I think i'll meander through the murky waters of the 'newbies' section for a while!

I didn't realise Trials was so involved.

Sorry to intrude.

middleageman

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