Dan81 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 OK, so theres a heatsink ring at the front (not new but not worn), trialtech at the back (new), KMC wide chain (new) and a new 4Jeri tensioner and its skipping....The freehub is fine as I have been running it previously on a geared bike with no problems and the chainline looks spot on.....so any ideas what could be skipping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey1991 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 OK, so theres a heatsink ring at the front (not new but not worn), trialtech at the back (new), KMC wide chain (new) and a new 4Jeri tensioner and its skipping....The freehub is fine as I have been running it previously on a geared bike with no problems and the chainline looks spot on.....so any ideas what could be skipping?if its the same problem as mine its the tentioner, shortening my chain sorted it but no idea why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan81 Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 (edited) Unless it stretches with a bit of riding I cant take anymore links out.... when I stand the bike up and watch the chain as I turn the crank you can see the chain 'bounce' on the way out the tensioner.....it's fecking new though?! Edited December 5, 2008 by Dan81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 If you're running any less than a 16t on the back, i'd recommend either tensioning the chain upwards, or using a double-wheeled tensioner.My set up was practically the same as yours (except a BT sprocket) and i had a similar problem, drove me absolutely insane! After i tensioned it upwards, all seemed good in the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan81 Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 its an 18t front / 16t rear....I played about with the 4jeri to see it it could be modified to push upwards but it doesn't look like it'd tension the chain even if I could get it to do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Chinnery Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 I dont wanna sound like a complete pleb but mine did the same with (btw im riding mod) Is the chain upside down judt take out a link and turn it over . I thought my tensile was skippng but turned it over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 its an 18t front / 16t rear....I played about with the 4jeri to see it it could be modified to push upwards but it doesn't look like it'd tension the chain even if I could get it to do that?I took mine apart, and did some thinking.Basically just flipped the spring over, and may have moved a few things around - it's worth a shot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashley-Wood Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 when i brought new cogs and chain this happned to me, but after a while riding it weared in and hasnt skipped once since it wore itself in i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan81 Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 please ignore the rest of the bike - it was only sort of bodged together with old stuff while I was collecting parts but it's the best one I have showing the chain - is this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sponge Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 (edited) I ran the same tensioner and gearing as you when I had a stock for a short time. No real problems.But you've got to get a perfect chain alignment to get it as smooth as possible. And also adjust the jockey wheel's bar so it is centred dead straight onto the chain, if you haven't done so already.Also make sure the two thin 'arms' holding the jockey wheel aren't fouling the chain.If problems persist, let me know!EDIT:One observation... your chain is very long. Definitely a lot longer than it was on my stock..CLICK FOR PICTURESCompare the two bikes' tensioner angle. Your one is far lower angled than mine, suggesting your chain is really long and it takes that much angling to take up the slack. Try this:-Take tensioner off-split chain-shorten it down as short as it'll comfortably wrap around your sprockets (and sprockets ONLY!.. imagine it was a mod or BMX setup..)-do it so you get the absolute shortest chain you can on your sprockets alone... but within comfort... (i.e. don't get it dead tight that it'll struggle to fit together)-Now you will find you have less chain slack, and your tensioner only is there now to take up the few mm or 1cm of chain wiggle... (it basically acts like Icing on a cake, if you get me?)-Et Voila!Oh yeah, and still aim for the straightest chainline possible, and adjust the jockey wheel bar as close to perfect straightness with the chain as possible! Edited December 5, 2008 by Sponge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan81 Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 sponge - thanks for taking the time to type all that but its exactly what Ive done! the chain Just wouldnt reach the next link so thats literally as short as it can run (unless like I said it stretches a bit) and that was without tensioner etc. I think the difference in how high the tensioners is running between your bike and mine is prob due to chainstay length affecting chain length.chainline is spot on - using the bar on tensioner as well so its not 'pulling' it sideways.....maybe it'll just wear in, I dunno. Pissing me off though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 Check the chain for stiff links if it's jumping as it exits the tensioner. Check the cogs for burrs on the sides of the teeth too - they might lift the chain off the cogs momentarily. Also look for deformed chain links - if there's a bent link that can catch on the cogs and cause a skip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Chinnery Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 In all honesty, Get a new chain mate and see if it works nd if so sell your other on here to be honest.Soz its just my point of view x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 As far as i can tell, this is a new chain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 You need more chain wrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan81 Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 (edited) Its a new chain, I cant shorten it anymore than it is and I dont want to buy a £50 tensioner - how do I get more 'chain wrap'? Edited December 5, 2008 by Dan81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 Tried up tensioning it?You just need a double wheel tensioner (Rohloff style) such as a DA BOMB as its cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 You want the chain to wrap around the rear cog more, so tension the chain upwards, instead of down. This will also tuck it all in better and look much neater! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan81 Posted December 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 any pics of a 4Jeri or similar tensioning upwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 pedal round with your rear brake on (sucks if you run a rear grind) my new chain skipped so i gave it half hour of pedaling round with dragging my brake, all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted December 5, 2008 Report Share Posted December 5, 2008 How would that sort it out? I don't get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grant_hundley Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 How would that sort it out? I don't get it. Would put more pressure on it I guess and 'bed' it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shamus Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 Inspect the chain as well, look for stiff links, like you said you haven't had problems before and its like new but your new setup may be more sensitive to stiff links perhaps. due to cahin wrap etc Its a newer tensioner etc but stiff links are an almost random occurance, it could be be that it happened when the chain was fitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grant_hundley Posted December 6, 2008 Report Share Posted December 6, 2008 Couldn't you just take the spring out, put the jockey wheel under the chain and cable tie the tensioner to your chainstay?Would give better chain wrap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan81 Posted December 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 (edited) Sorry Bob, how do you mean? (lost me there)...... I took the bike on its first ride, just doing pedal kicks is fine but anything like a half to rull rotation of the cranks with pressure can make it skip.After a few hours it seems to skip less for 'normal riding' (pedalling along the street) but still did it under pressure.If it still does it after another ride Ill have a go at playing with the tensioner to tension upwards or whatever Bob's suggestion is.........could it be abything to do with it being a wide BMX style chain? (have only used 9 spd chains before). Edited December 7, 2008 by Dan81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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