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Rear Disc Mount


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Nope - MSN is free.

Thanks, yeah, Muel, your probably right about having the bits already, but I was kind of waiting on that new Echo SL hub.

My dad says it would be better to have an adaptor that could be mounted on the frame instead of welding it. Slotted caliper mounts?

do you have a super hope then? mine works for a day then just seems to forget to hold for the next week.... same with several people i know...

What Hope do you got? 06' or 07'? Mine's an 07' and it's beast!

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Thanks, yeah, Muel, your probably right about having the bits already, but I was kind of waiting on that new Echo SL hub.

My dad says it would be better to have an adaptor that could be mounted on the frame instead of welding it. Slotted caliper mounts?

What Hope do you got? 06' or 07'? Mine's an 07' and it's beast!

07, had it 4 months, replaced pads which made no difference. maybe il get new pads and rotor, and get the mount faced? basically starting afresh then.....im just fed up of shit braking for 4 months. i like to know im not gunnu slip back and wang my head on a rock....

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do you have a super hope then? mine works for a day then just seems to forget to hold for the next week.... same with several people i know...

All 4 have mine are animals, as were the two I had before them!

I used slotted holes at the 4 bolt mount, and a hole for the axle. That way, the whole mount moves when you tension the chain, so the claiper and pads are always kept in the optimal place on the rotor.

If I were you I'd try the adapter first, you can only loose a bit of steel if it goes wrong, if the welding goes wrong, it could be your frame. (Y)

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All 4 have mine are animals, as were the two I had before them!

I used slotted holes at the 4 bolt mount, and a hole for the axle. That way, the whole mount moves when you tension the chain, so the claiper and pads are always kept in the optimal place on the rotor.

If I were you I'd try the adapter first, you can only loose a bit of steel if it goes wrong, if the welding goes wrong, it could be your frame. (Y)

What does the 4-bolt mount have to do with the disc mount?

07, had it 4 months, replaced pads which made no difference. maybe il get new pads and rotor, and get the mount faced? basically starting afresh then.....im just fed up of shit braking for 4 months. i like to know im not gunnu slip back and wang my head on a rock....

That's why I'm trying to go rear disc. So I don't fall on my bum so much!

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The only things it attaches too are the rear axle and the left hand 4 bolt mount. It has a 10mm hole for the axle, so when you do the wheel bolt up it's clamped between the wheel and the frame, and then it's just bolted down to the 4 bolt mount.

What rear hub do you have? I think the only one you can do it with is a Monty TI. You need one that is designed not to have snail cams in the frame with it, but with an axle width small enough so you can fit the hub, disc mount and snail cams inside the frame. If you don't mind about weight, then I'd get a Monty TI hub on a Try-All rim with Mutiny spokes. Thats what I had, but I had the older black TI hub, so it was 36h aswell, it was the strongest wheel I've ever had. My brake on the 06 with the adapter and that wheel was much stiffer than the one on my Echo now, the wheel was a lot stiffer and the caliper didn't need to have lots of packing under it to space it out.

If you need more help than the Wiki, feel free to PM me.

Yes it's fine, I designed mine after seeing a few others and just encorpourated the best bits of them all. :P

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I wouldnt bother welding anything to the frame if I was you.

Welding alters the properties of ally. It will start off in a T6 state (very hard) but because of the temperatures the metal gets up to during welding it will become T4 and therefore soft. It will only be a matter of a couple of rides before it snaps off.

The whole frame will need heat treating which means all the paint has to be removed first.

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The only things it attaches too are the rear axle and the left hand 4 bolt mount. It has a 10mm hole for the axle, so when you do the wheel bolt up it's clamped between the wheel and the frame, and then it's just bolted down to the 4 bolt mount.

What rear hub do you have? I think the only one you can do it with is a Monty TI. You need one that is designed not to have snail cams in the frame with it, but with an axle width small enough so you can fit the hub, disc mount and snail cams inside the frame. If you don't mind about weight, then I'd get a Monty TI hub on a Try-All rim with Mutiny spokes. Thats what I had, but I had the older black TI hub, so it was 36h aswell, it was the strongest wheel I've ever had. My brake on the 06 with the adapter and that wheel was much stiffer than the one on my Echo now, the wheel was a lot stiffer and the caliper didn't need to have lots of packing under it to space it out.

If you need more help than the Wiki, feel free to PM me.

Yes it's fine, I designed mine after seeing a few others and just encorpourated the best bits of them all. :P

I was going to wait and get the new Echo SL hub, going back with a V!Z rim and spokes to match my front wheel. Would I need different measurement with using snail cams? Cause I would have to get Echo snail cams with that hub.

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I was going to wait and get the new Echo SL hub, going back with a V!Z rim and spokes to match my front wheel. Would I need different measurement with using snail cams? Cause I would have to get Echo snail cams with that hub.

There is a bigger problem. You need a hub designed to not use snail cams really, because you need the snail cam to space the moutn further into the centre of the frame, because the "seat" stays bend in, so the mount will have to bend in, but the bends on the mount have to clear the caliper bolts, if you put the mount right up against the frame, I doubt it would sit flat on the droupout because of sticking out welds etc.

If you keep this in mind, you'll need a hub that is designed so that the edge of the hub mounts straight onto the dropout, instead of having a snail cam in there, so that you can get it spaced right. On mine, I had 1 really thin spacer on one bolt and non on the other, even with a hub designed for use with the cams outside.

I honestly don't think it can be done on a hub that isn't a TI, because you need to take into account that it needs a smaller axle width than most hubs, and it need to be designed so it mounts on the frame with no snail cam, I've looked for others and I don't think there are any that fit the bill apart from the TI. That's using this method anyway.

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There is a bigger problem. You need a hub designed to not use snail cams really, because you need the snail cam to space the moutn further into the centre of the frame, because the "seat" stays bend in, so the mount will have to bend in, but the bends on the mount have to clear the caliper bolts, if you put the mount right up against the frame, I doubt it would sit flat on the droupout because of sticking out welds etc.

If you keep this in mind, you'll need a hub that is designed so that the edge of the hub mounts straight onto the dropout, instead of having a snail cam in there, so that you can get it spaced right. On mine, I had 1 really thin spacer on one bolt and non on the other, even with a hub designed for use with the cams outside.

I honestly don't think it can be done on a hub that isn't a TI, because you need to take into account that it needs a smaller axle width than most hubs, and it need to be designed so it mounts on the frame with no snail cam, I've looked for others and I don't think there are any that fit the bill apart from the TI. That's using this method anyway.

Yeah, I see. Do you have like a CAD drawing or just a regular drawings or anything with measurements on it for the mount. Would be really useful, otherwise I'd have to draw it up myself. And since I don't know the measurement's, that might be impossible.

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Yeah, I see. Do you have like a CAD drawing or just a regular drawings or anything with measurements on it for the mount. Would be really useful, otherwise I'd have to draw it up myself. And since I don't know the measurement's, that might be impossible.

I didn't measure anything, just the holes for the caliper bolts. Everything else was marked out and fabricated to fit the frame, the caliper and the rotor.

It says exactly how I did it in the Wiki, I hoped it would come in useful one day. If you follow that then you shouldn't have any trouble, hopefully.

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Hey!

Got you a picture as promised, qualities not amazing as all i have is my phone at the minute :(

Thats with my BB7 on there, it's a rear 203 mm mount but for some reason it only seems to fit a 155 rotor so i've had to space it out, looking at the way the disc mount is layed out on the megamo, it does seem to be rather different to the new deng/koxx/etc frames, anything else then feel free to Pm me :)

Adam.

Edit: That +20mm adaptor is the right way up, right ?

Edited by Adam-Griffin
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Thanks, but I don't think it's even possible to do something like that on my frame. Will have to be an adaptor. Exploring lots of new ideas right now, new frame, mount, trading bikes, selling my bike, etc, in order to get something that will suit me.

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