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All Mountain Frame.


Tom_

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But yeah, what I'm saying is that the wheel building shit is the really basic, basic shit, and that's what they expect you to know for Cytech2, so if you don't know that but think you're Cytech2-worthy, you aren't? Again, I'm not putting you down or anything, but when you keep changing what you have/haven't got and can/can't do, it kinda leaves things a little up in the air when people read posts from you. Equally, saying stuff like thinking a wheelie shows you whether a suspension setup is stable or not also makes me slightly question whether you'd be that good at servicing all different types of shocks and forks, which you'd also need to do for Cytech3?

Yeah, i was tired, my brain wasn't working and i had only done the 2 before. Evidently i can build wheels fine with a bit of a guide, as i did that wheel twice before. Cytech 2 basic wheel building isn't actually putting a wheel together though is it? Isn't it stuff like spoke replace and true? And Cytech 3 advanced wheel building is building it from scratch?

2 things man, where did the suspension setup is stable bit come from? You're twisting shit together now. I said i can get a feel for the sus by giving it a bit of a bounce, with my body weight and some gravity, which is essentially what it's gonna be like going down a downhill course/ hucking it off a 4ft drop and that if it wheelies nice, to me, it's gonna have a stable geo cos it had a nice balance point... Same with a trials bike, if it feels nice on the back wheel, it's probably a nice setup/geo. And i said i DON'T know how to service forks and shocks, which is why i wouldn't fully be cytech 3.

Edited by Fat Pants™
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No, first ever wheel build, it ended up with about 1-1.5mm up and down movement, so i was bored and thought i'd give it another go... Didn't work though, because the rim is a bit off i reckon. I can usually take up and down movement out of wheels, but as it's a f**king stiff rim, it wouldn't have much of it.

Most recent one where i f**ked up, was cos i took it apart to spray it.

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No, first ever wheel build, it ended up with about 1-1.5mm up and down movement, so i was bored and thought i'd give it another go... Didn't work though, because the rim is a bit off i reckon. I can usually take up and down movement out of wheels, but as it's a f**king stiff rim, it wouldn't have much of it.

Most recent one where i f**ked up, was cos i took it apart to spray it.

If there was movement in it, tighten the spokes more, or get shorter spokes?

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Could've sworn you said something about it being stable or some shit like that, my bad. Either way, 'your body weight' and 'gravity' isn't really going to give you much of a realistic idea about what it'd be like from downhilling. Like just from 'your body weight' and 'gravity', it's not going to tell you how much chatter it'd give you when you were braking over rough ground, what the rebound would be like on braking bumps, etc.

Cytech2 covers actual wheelbuilding, Cytech3 is 'wheel building for disc brakes', apparently. So yeah, if you're not proper on it with wheel building, that rules you out of Cytech3, and if you don't know sus that rules you out of it, so unless you know the ins and outs of all the types of disc brake system pretty well, and how to bleed/service/fix/tweak all of them, that's like 75% of the course? I'm sure you'd learn it all pretty quickly, but again, I'm just saying that coming out with stuff like "I'm basically Cytech3 standard" to try and back up that you "know your shit" isn't a great way of going about business.

If you think a double walled drilled trials rim is 'stiff', you have some joys waiting for you when you start building wheels for other disciplines :P

EDIT: As a hint of what I'm trying to explain here, Tarty, back in the day (And probably still now to some extent) seemed to basically know everything there was to know about pretty much anything to do with trials, yet I don't think I ever once heard him say "I know my shit." The guy who taught me in our bike shop had been working in bike shops since he was 14, and at the time he taught me he was 57. He knew more than I thought was really possible about basically everything to do with bikes (apart from trials :P), and again, I didn't once hear him say anything about "Knowing his shit." The more you say it, the less people believe it, just like when people try and demand respect from people - it just doesn't work that way. You don't prove you know stuff by saying "I know stuff", you prove it by proving you know it, if you get me. I don't think people are trying to say you're a clueless f**k-up or anything like that, and you're obviously keen to learn stuff, but it just comes across like you're getting well ahead of yourself.

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:mellow: Go away glen, I want advice on frames and headangles not an argument about your bike skillz.

Yea, I REALLY REALLY want a reign, they look the mutts nuts aswell, but there really expensive, gotta be honest Im thinking il go the hartail route to start with, I doubt Il really need the sus to start with, can always upgrade later. Plus I hear that its better to start off on a HT better bike control and stuff.

Im going with the on one, you get a handmade english frame for under 100quid! and from what Iv read there really nice to ride, and it means I dont have to skimp on the rest of the spec (pikes, shimano, race face being my main planned brands)

Now I have another question, there are basically 2 versions of the on one frame I want, both exactly the same one is the summer season, the other is the standard inbred, the only difference between the two is a slacker Headangle and the price (wierdly)

Basically the standard 456 inbred has a 69.5 degree head angle with a 4" fork I belive, Il be running a pike, so thatl mean on the 95mm setting itl be slightly better for climbing, then the pikes will go to 140mm for decending, supposedly slackening the headangle to about 68 degrees ish for decending.

However the summer season has 66.6 degree headangle with a 5" fork, so with the pike on 140mm itl be about 66degrees ish (pretty shitting slack) and then with the fork at 95mm itl be more like 67.8-ish.

I wana know which will be the best compromise for going up and down.

O and the standard 456 is 40quid more than the summer season...

Anyone?

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:mellow: Go away glen, I want advice on frames and headangles not an argument about your bike skillz.

Anyone?

personally, out of those 2, i'd go with the summer season. But that's just what I'd ride, i'd rather have something quicker on the downs than the ups. If you're the same then go for it, if not go to the inbred. (Y)

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I dunno, I reckon that Summer Season would be slack. Slack head angles aren't great for jumping, and 66 degrees on a hardtail sounds daft (That's slacker than a lot of full on DH bikes). Purely on geometry, I'd go for the normal 456, but it would make sense to actually ask someone who has ridden the new one.

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Yeah, read that in MBUK, they seemed to love it. Rode the Stinky today and it certainly felt f**king tonk. Really big sus. Bit too soft for my liking though, as i was bottoming it out pretty much on a 4 set. Think i prefer the Banshee but i'll have to have another go on it. The sus was all adjustable, Stinkys wasn't all that adjustable.

It's hard, i'd love the stinky because it'll take anything i can give it, but it's a lard arse. Banshee might not be up for stuff i give it once i get confident, and it's nicer weight wise...

Hmm.

Tom's thinking of building up a Banshee XXX if i can get him the frame only for a reasonable price.

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Stinkys wasn't all that adjustable.

They're just as adjustable as any other frame. Obviously air shocks are easier to adjust - you just put more air in rather than having to change springs - but that doesn't mean it can't be done. Plus air shocks feel pretty wank when you're pointing downhill, coil is waaay better. You might have had the wrong spring weight, but then again maybe not. The Stinky is very linear in its travel so it blows through the travel easily. Plus doing a 4 set is actually a relatively big hit by comparison to what you'd get on a lot of DH tracks. If you're not going to use all the travel, why have it? I aim to bottom out at least once a run. Otherwise how do you know you're using all the travel? But that's me :)

Bah, I've already wasted far too much of my time in this topic. Just buy the carrera, I'm sure it's fine.

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