Servicing A Hope Mono Trial

[JonMack]

Well in standard retard fashion I managed to round off the allen head in the lever push rod screw. Was wondering how to get it out, as I can't undo it because it's rounded. Can i just undo the circlip in the reservoir, undo the lever pivot bolt and it all pulls out, or is it harder than that?

I know it's gonna need a rebleed, but that's not a problem.

Cheers,

Jon

[psycholist]

If you hold the lever piston in place (I used a small screwdriver and some cable ties through the hanging eye on the screwdriver handle and around the brake lever body to press the piston in) while the pushrod is removed you won't even need to re bleed. Hold the lever in while you remove the circlip, tip the lever sideways to allow the washer held by the circlip to slide out (Still holding the brake on) and stick in a screwdriver/something else long and narrow enough to fit to hold the piston in place before you let go of the lever and the pushrod is unloaded. Then undo the lever pivot bolt and take the lever blade and pushrod out of the lever body, so you can unscrew the pushrod with a pliers (If it's too stiff to unscrew by hand).

[Muel]

You'll have fun Jon, you can't usually get at the circlip because the lever blade gets in the way, and you can't get that out easily.

Undo the lever pivot bolt and take it out, and try to get hold of the push rod with a pair of long nose pliers, you'll have to squeeze very hard, and use the lever blade to unscrew the brass barrel from the push rod.

Now you should hopefully have the lever body with the push rod poking out of it, so you can remove the circlip and the pushrod should come out. If you leave the topcap sealed, sometimes you can manage to keep the piston inside the lever, normally it pops out though, so once you've fitted the new push rod and put the circlip back in, you'll need to rebleed it.

It's a very fiddly job, but I've done it a couple of times and never struggled too much.

I put a big jubilee clip round the pliers the last time, it was just slipping all the time.

If you hold the lever piston in place (I used a small screwdriver and some cable ties through the hanging eye on the screwdriver handle and around the brake lever body to press the piston in) while the pushrod is removed you won't even need to re bleed. Hold the lever in while you remove the circlip, tip the lever sideways to allow the washer held by the circlip to slide out (Still holding the brake on) and stick in a screwdriver/something else long and narrow enough to fit to hold the piston in place before you let go of the lever and the pushrod is unloaded. Then undo the lever pivot bolt and take the lever blade and pushrod out of the lever body, so you can unscrew the pushrod with a pliers (If it's too stiff to unscrew by hand).

Too quick for me, how did you get around the lever blade to get the circlip out? Mabe it's just my plier/point thingies, they have massive arms on them.

[psycholist]

I've done this to Hayes brakes and it was a pretty tight fit. My circlip pliers are pretty light though, so they may fit better. I was sorting brakes that had their lever's pulled too far out (From crashing on them), bending the washer that retains the pushrod, so I had the lever more out of the way before going for the circlip. Unscrewing the pushrod with a pliers is a very good idea to try first though.

[austen]

If its sticking out a bit at the end of the brass barrel, just put a hacksaw cut in it and use a small screw driver to undo it, but the chances are its not stciking out at all.

Another thing you could try is undo the pivot bolt, and just hacksaw the push bolt in two (As you will need to get a new one anyway) and then just use pliyers to inscrew the pushbolt from the brass barrel.

None of that has probably helped you at all, but worth a try.

[JonMack]

Yeah I thought of that, I'm riding tonight and probably weds thurs fri sat sun but when i get a rainy day I'll give it a go