eskimo Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 Why are you anodizing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walker Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 Are you becoming a bike tart JP? Next thing you'll be doing all this to your Megamo to try and top the battle that your having with Mr Raven! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robster Posted April 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 Are you becoming a bike tart JP? Next thing you'll be doing all this to your Megamo to try and top the battle that your having with Mr Raven!Ah well that battle will be fought, won or lost over many an eve at Shipley Glen with our shirts off big rock rules comp.As far as weight goes for me, all I need do is stop drinking so much bloody Stella and loose a couple of stone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 (edited) Like said why are people listing specs? he wants to lighten the bike hes not going to go changeing frames when hes got one.Why are you anodizing it?Becuase anodising will be lighter, paint is heavey as it sits on top of the metal, i believe anodiseing is and like takes a layer of metal of and inbeds in or something.Remeber all the little grams add up.*Headtube hole like montys *the same thing behind the bb shell faceing your tyre (its done to zeniths if you want to have alook at a frame for reference)*Grind the inner skin of the rims out, theres no need for them as hes not a big basher rider and will save weight. Might be worth talking to tarty adam about how to stop puncutures as waddy has done it with his front rim so he will know how things went with that.*Light tubes*Cut the tyre nobbles*welgo magnesium pedal and ti axels if you want to go that far* square the holes in rims*bottom of the fork legs drill hole and possible dremel out to make a oval depending on the forks*where the 2 fork legs join to be welded below your headtube drill there. *use a countersink bit and drill the stem ect joe seddons done it on his bike in pics section so have alook.*you could proberly get away with laceing the front wheel radial to save weight with shorter spokes and find no difference in preformande and flex because of his size.* drill the braking surface of the rims.*Cut oval shapes into the hubs body inbetween the hub flanges*Ti and alu bolts through out.*Guessing he'll want to keep the bash plate if so drill that and have no bashring if he doesnt mid not having one take it off and grind all mounts on the frame off an cut up a bashring* grind cable mounts off and use tape* internal cable routeing*bb and headtube facing to shave the odd gram*modify the top cap as you dont need it all.*you could drill the tyres side wall and then run a peice of sellotape on the inside around to stop dirt getting in*Another ive thought of is, depending on the stem but on the clamp if it hasnt already been done cut the centre of that out.dont think i can think of anything elseBUt other than all of them the other option is to go with a lightest spec to start with rather than cut a heavey part to be the same as a lighter brand out on the market, and then after moding the light one its now super light. Edited April 26, 2008 by basher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eskimo Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 Becuase anodising will be lighter.Remeber all the little grams add up.Indeed. But i think i should refrase my question:Why are you coating it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 remove steerer tube, at the top where the stem sits, grind out parts of it, grind the pedals (you only use one side, get really creative on the other)remove rubber from the tyre, if your using tryalls, there rediculously thick, i've hit mine with the grinder before, i'm sure you could shave some weight there.helium in the tubes grind down some of the dropout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave33 Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 as hes only light, replace most of the bolts with alloy ones, alloy spoke nipples, dt rev 1.8mm-1.5mm spokes, vp pedals with alloy bolts and only 1 cage are lighter than the welgo mag ones and only £10nylon/carbon cassete spacers/headset spacerstry not to run tensiner is posslight inner tubes dont get braided hose, its fair weightif you know a machinist, get nylon headset cups turned, drill out the bottom bracket spindle to atleast 7 mm diarholloff is only of the lightest chains about and also very strongalloy rear cogfoam grips drill and cut stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Mitchinson Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 (edited) The lightest trials specific BB you can get is the neon Ti not the carbon shell one.Neon cranksKoxx 'H' hubsDob rims with square holes and 2nd wall removedAlloy spokes/nipplesKoxx forxxFront koxx tyre with side tread removedRear creepy crawler also with side tread removedStem and bars can't really save you that much weight.Monty chain saves almost 300g's instead of KMC's.Duel maggy's with drilled mounts and lever blades.You can get away with drilling the sidewalls of the rims even if you are running rim brakes. One of the koxx team riders has done this!Alloy bolts through out.Foam grips (cut down a bit)Drill middle of stem clamp, and top cap.Drill the hub flange, in between the spoke holes.Drill rear sprocket, a lot.Wellgo mag pedals with Ti axelsGrind the rims a few times.Only use half worn down pads (too weight weenie-e even for me but oh well...)Cut down fork steerer tube as much as possible.Remove all the pins on one side of pedals.Drill hub shell.Don't run a bash, or if you really need one...get a try-all symetric.That's about all I can think of, most of which has probably already been said but I couldn't be bothered to read all these long lists. Edited April 26, 2008 by Alex-Mitchinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 Monty chain saves almost 300g's instead of KMC's.That's not possible, i have a 1/8th KMC Kool and it weighs around 400g in the full legnth you get when you buy it. That means that the Monty chain must be under 100g. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bionic Balls Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 http://trials-uk.co.uk/product.aspx?productid=1538tis 195g...so...200g less that is bloody light...and soo expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted April 26, 2008 Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 http://trials-uk.co.uk/product.aspx?productid=1538tis 195g...so...200g less that is bloody light...and soo expensive!Sack that, I'd rather run a 3/32 KMC Kool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex-Mitchinson Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 I meant over most of the normal KMC's it saves nearly 300g's. But even if is just 200g's, that's quite a lot!I'm not going to get one though because it's too much of a risk. If you are saving that much weight than the strength must be dramatically decreasing, and a chain is something I don't particularly want to snap. Im guessing monty designed it for comp use only, and If i got one i would just use it for everything and all the time so the chances of it snapping are high. Also the monty team riders probably get a new one every comp where as I can't afford £40 every month!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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