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TrialZonn

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Yes I think that's what I am searching for...

So I can buy this product (18T spocket) and the 18T echo bashring...but what cranks must I have...

I haven't changed them from the time I got the bike

You would need to buy some square taper front free wheel cranks, an 18t screw-on chainwheel, an 18t bashguard and possibly a longer bottom bracket to make sure the chainwheel clears the frame.

Edited by forteh
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I understood...

In this way I must change my cranks,with which I am ok but if I buy the Echo CNC then I have to change my BB too...That takes me far from what I can spend for now...

what about these http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=156???

If I buy the taper echo cranks the echo bashring and the screw on spocket???

"sorry this item cannot be found"

I guess you were referring to the echo forged cranks etc...pretty good buy, but if at all possible id go with the cnc'd

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That brings me to the cost of 90GP + the shipping cost...

I have also the option to change the cassette (I haven't found one with 19 or 20t)

Tell me if you have in mind one or how I can know that a bigger cassette will fit my hub and frame...

If this is cheapier I will change the cassette for now and buy cranks later on

Until now I have 2 options:

1.Buy new cranks,bashring & 18T Spocket which brings mw at 90GB

2.Changing the rear cassette with one that has a gear with 19 or 20T

Please tell me for the cassette and give me some links for a decent cassette with 19 or 20T that would fit my hub and frame...(cause my local bike shop doesn't help me much)

I think I will search further...if I could have a setup at near 60-70GB I would be happy...

Thank all of you for your time and I appreciate your opinions...

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Ill check the number of teeth on the xtr cassette I have and post back here, it should fit without a problem, you might just need to fiddle about with spacers (Ive got some spare you can have). As I said you can have it for postage costs which shouldnt be more than 5 GBP :)

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Ok so Ive got an 8spd xt cassette not xtr :$

The rings are 11/13/15/17/20/22/23/26/30, the 30t one has a slight kink in it but you wont be using that one anyways. The 17t and upwards are mounted on the alloy carrier, the carrier body where it fits onto the freehub is 25mm wide, the rest of the space can be made up using other chainrings and/or spacers :)

Yours if you want it, comes with all of the rings and the correct lockring - not quite got the gear ratios you were after though :(

DSC00127.JPG

DSC00128.JPG

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Thanks but I was told another good solution

I will buy a rear 18T spocket and some spacers (and a chain tensioner I think) and change my rear cassette..

In this way I don't have to change my cranks and BB or the front chainring and I will be able to save money to buy a full set of cranks/BB and Bashring later...

Thank you for your time

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Thanks but I was told another good solution

I will buy a rear 18T spocket and some spacers (and a chain tensioner I think) and change my rear cassette..

In this way I don't have to change my cranks and BB or the front chainring and I will be able to save money to buy a full set of cranks/BB and Bashring later...

Thank you for your time

Yeah thats the sensible solution in reality :)

Afterall you can just get a new rear sprocket for a few quid if you fancy a change.

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One last question cause I don't want to make a new topic for this...

I decided to buy a splined spocket (18 or 20T) for the rear and leave the 22T front chainring and the bashring...

If I am right I will need a chain tensioner and some tools...

So what must I know about chain tensioners not to buy one that will not fit my frame???

I think that I will buy these

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=10410

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=10341

and this chain tensioner

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=309

Tell me if I will be able to attach the chain tensioner

and what tools will I need to remove the old cassette and place the new spocket and the spacers on my hub

Many Thanks

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I would go with a tensioner that is sprung at the very least, theres no reason why you cant use your rear mech to act as a tensioner, all you need to do is adjust the hi and lo screws until the mesh is inline with the chain :)

Its heavier than a dedicated tensioner but works better than an unsprung tensioner imho.

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Thanks but I think I'll buy one and if I don't like it I will use my rear mech...

Do you know how Ryan Leech made his rear mech turn upwards and be in a higher position like a chain tensioner???(sorry if I can't describe it right,but if you have seen any of his videos you will understand what I mean)

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I think its more a question of which mech Ryan Leech uuses (I have no idea which one he's got :P) but different designed mechs will go off at different angles - some closer to the chainstay, and some a bit more vertical.

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