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Changing Axle From Qr To 10mm Bolt


tris

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front wheel.

i searched but i couldnt find owt.

basically i have a QR from axle and i want to change it to 10mm bolt through for stunt pegs.

i take the sqewer out and then i am left with two washer things. once i remove these there is another washer and the axle left and nothing to remove the axle from!!!

how do i remve the axle?? i can post pics if needed.

also once i get the axle out,,,,will any old 10mm axle from the front of another bike fit it??

i think one axle is sealed (my one) and the one i want to take it from is not.

any thoughts........

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I'd be a little cautious if you're trying to mount pegs on a trials bike, too

Indeed, pegs need a very solid large dropout area to properly mount, funnily enough 99% of trials bikes dont have large flat plate dropouts :D

Even with a decent dropout its still pretty easy to bend a 10mm axle.

Edited by forteh
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im gunna buy a new £20 wheel with a disc hub and a 10mm bolt axle. then if it breaks whats £20!! im only going to use the pegs to do smalll tricks with like fork glides so i doubt it will bend. thanks for the helps guys.

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Indeed, pegs need a very solid large dropout area to properly mount, funnily enough 99% of trials bikes dont have large flat plate dropouts :D

Even with a decent dropout its still pretty easy to bend a 10mm axle.

I bent a 14mm axle on a BMX once, never did a grind on it, I just fell off!

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im gunna buy a new £20 wheel with a disc hub and a 10mm bolt axle. then if it breaks whats £20!! im only going to use the pegs to do smalll tricks with like fork glides so i doubt it will bend. thanks for the helps guys.

You wont fit normal pegs onto a trials frame or forks.

Someone posted a link to some micro pegs on here in the last week, basically they replace the wheel nuts; they should be ok for just standing on.

Could also try setting the skewer so it sticks out sideways, well known method of making a 'peg' with a QR :)

I bent a 14mm axle on a BMX once, never did a grind on it, I just fell off!

Serves you right for buying wank hubs :P

In all honesty the size of the axle isnt so important, the stiffness of the dropouts is :)

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You wont fit normal pegs onto a trials frame or forks.

Someone posted a link to some micro pegs on here in the last week, basically they replace the wheel nuts; they should be ok for just standing on.

Could also try setting the skewer so it sticks out sideways, well known method of making a 'peg' with a QR :)

Serves you right for buying wank hubs :P

In all honesty the size of the axle isnt so important, the stiffness of the dropouts is :)

The dropouts were huge. like 8mm thick.

It was on a Mongoose Villain. I still know f**k all about BMX's, but I assume it's the trials equivilant of a T-Vee.

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Villains had shitty 6mm thick dropouts, and shitty axles. So yeah, not too surprising.

Majority of BMXers use 10mm axles up front, but they tend to be decent axles. I wouldn't trust a cheap hub for running pegs, especially with the lack of support that trials forks will give you. With most trials forks you'd probably have to space the peg away from the dropout too, just 'cos of the shape of them. BMX dropouts are flat, trials ones are generally a bit more contoured, especially if they're for a disc fork.

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ive decided to get a 10mm disc wheel. then im going to buy some small pegs like 2-3" longs.

my dropouts are flat and will allow me to have a thin peg like 35mm diameter.

to be honest those fat pegs are ghey some im going to get thin small ones.

if i make a habit of putting most of my weight on my bars and stand as near to the forks as possible it will reduce the strain and therefore im hoping i will not get bent axles.

thanks

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ive decided to get a 10mm disc wheel. then im going to buy some small pegs like 2-3" longs.

my dropouts are flat and will allow me to have a thin peg like 35mm diameter.

to be honest those fat pegs are ghey some im going to get thin small ones.

if i make a habit of putting most of my weight on my bars and stand as near to the forks as possible it will reduce the strain and therefore im hoping i will not get bent axles.

thanks

Not sure which the 'fat pegs' are but my demolition park pegs arent much more than 35mm dia and just over 100mm long, theres no way on earth they could be properly fitted to any trials forks Ive seen. The micropegs posted in your other thread could be used instead of wheelnuts and realisitcally is your only option on a trials fork.

For hang fives and the like you need the weight to be on the peg not the bars, small threaded axle extenders shouldnt bend the axle/dropout from just standing on them, start doing harsh pegstalls on them and they will die very very quickly :)

As for converting the axle: -

If its a 3/8" standard axle in the new hub then it should just be a case of getting a 3/8" full threaded axle (normally for cup & cone bearing hubs) and fitting cone nuts outside the bearings. You will need to fit a spacer tube inbetween the sealed races to stop the bearings collapsing under too much preload, needs to be a sliding fit over the axle and only a couple of mm thick at most, the ends need to be square - a local engineering shop/college may be able to knock something up for you :)

If the bore of the new bearings is bigger than 3/8" and theyre not a good fit on the axle then you will need some top hat spacer machined to suit in addition to the centre spacer tube. Again just fit cone nuts either side and it should be good to fit into the forks :)

edit: just noticed you have onza flyguys, Ive got a set at home and imho theres no way you could fit a normal bolt through peg on there, a screw on one would be ok though as it basically replaces the wheelnut.

Edited by forteh
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Not sure which the 'fat pegs' are but my demolition park pegs arent much more than 35mm dia and just over 100mm long, theres no way on earth they could be properly fitted to any trials forks Ive seen. The micropegs posted in your other thread could be used instead of wheelnuts and realisitcally is your only option on a trials fork.

For hang fives and the like you need the weight to be on the peg not the bars, small threaded axle extenders shouldnt bend the axle/dropout from just standing on them, start doing harsh pegstalls on them and they will die very very quickly :)

As for converting the axle: -

If its a 3/8" standard axle in the new hub then it should just be a case of getting a 3/8" full threaded axle (normally for cup & cone bearing hubs) and fitting cone nuts outside the bearings. You will need to fit a spacer tube inbetween the sealed races to stop the bearings collapsing under too much preload, needs to be a sliding fit over the axle and only a couple of mm thick at most, the ends need to be square - a local engineering shop/college may be able to knock something up for you :)

If the bore of the new bearings is bigger than 3/8" and theyre not a good fit on the axle then you will need some top hat spacer machined to suit in addition to the centre spacer tube. Again just fit cone nuts either side and it should be good to fit into the forks :)

edit: just noticed you have onza flyguys, Ive got a set at home and imho theres no way you could fit a normal bolt through peg on there, a screw on one would be ok though as it basically replaces the wheelnut.

well i have these pegs that just screw onto the axle. i thought all pegs attached like this?? and they worked on the front of this crappy old bike i have so i dont see why they wouldnt work on my onza.

the wheelnut goes on, nice and tight, then the peg will screw onto the final inch of thread, i cant see it bending in all honesty....

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Shouldn't the peg be mounted behind the axle nut?

Proper pegs are bolt through and are supported by the dropout, the wheelnut only holds it on. The screw on pegs will be fine (if you have enough thread to fit both wheelnut and peg then that would be preferable) and as I said you shouldnt bend your axle aslong as you dont try to stall on them :)

Will still need to sort the bearings, spacers and sleeves out though :)

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