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my rear hope brake feels really stiff and hard to pull & also doesn't seem to be biting properly either it has always been like this since i first got the bike, it has been rebled recently but still no differnce can anyone help me?

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my rear hope brake feels really stiff and hard to pull & also doesn't seem to be biting properly either it has always been like this since i first got the bike, it has been rebled recently but still no differnce can anyone help me?

2mm/ 2.5mm allen key in the reach adjuster and have a fiddle?

Give it time to bed in?

Contaminated pads/ Rotor?

Actual bolt that holds the lever in done up too tight?

Edited by Skoze
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2mm/ 2.5mm allen key in the reach adjuster?

Give it time to bed in?

Contaminated pads/ Rotor?

Actual bolt that holds the lever in done up too tight?

Probably the pinch bolt, try slackening it off a touch, also put a drop of oil on the brass bush and pivot :)

Clean the rotor with surgical spirit/cellulose thinners to make sure its thoroughly degreased (try not to touch the braking surface with your fingers either). Take the pads out and cook them over a gas ring, rebed the brake and see if that helps, if not then get a new set of pads.

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Theres a creaking sound when I turn my handlebars.

Anyone know what this could be? Cant tell where its coming from, headset perhaps. Ill have a go at tightening it all up around there to see if it helps, but otherwise Im stuck. Let me know what you think...

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Theres a creaking sound when I turn my handlebars.

Anyone know what this could be? Cant tell where its coming from, headset perhaps. Ill have a go at tightening it all up around there to see if it helps, but otherwise Im stuck. Let me know what you think...

Headset, if it's a deng they all seem to creak.

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Theres a creaking sound when I turn my handlebars.

Anyone know what this could be? Cant tell where its coming from, headset perhaps. Ill have a go at tightening it all up around there to see if it helps, but otherwise Im stuck. Let me know what you think...

My mate has this problem and he says he needs a head doctor or something. sorry i cant expand on this further

Nick

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Theres a creaking sound when I turn my handlebars.

Anyone know what this could be? Cant tell where its coming from, headset perhaps. Ill have a go at tightening it all up around there to see if it helps, but otherwise Im stuck. Let me know what you think...

Take the headset out and grease it all, then put it back on. Don't tighten the top-cap too tight else it will damage the headset and you will get angular steering - if its happened to you, you'll know what I mean.

Why not post in RSQ in the full forum? You're a full member, you'll get better answers (Y)

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Thanks for the advice. (Its a Guess stem) I better go out and buy grease (not entirely sure which grease and where to get it?)

Ill retighten the top cap so its not too tight! Any other bolts in general which shudnt be too tight btw? :mellow:

I guess I still post here cos Im still a beginner really. Im sure if I ask questions like that in the main section Ill just get morons telling me to use search! :closedeyes:

Edited by Chandler
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Thanks for the advice. (Its a Guess stem) I better go out and buy grease (not entirely sure which grease and where to get it?)

Ill retighten the top cap so its not too tight! Any other bolts in general which shudnt be too tight btw? :mellow:

I guess I still post here cos Im still a beginner really. Im sure if I ask questions like that in the main section Ill just get morons telling me to use search! :closedeyes:

Get some good quality lithium grease, strip apart the headset ( if its caged bearings ) into its componet parts, clean and regrease everything and put it back in the same order...then tighten your top cap bolt to perload the headset ( tighten until the bearings feel notchy then back it off 1/2 a turn ) then tighten your stem bolts to clamp the steerer....

If its cartridge bearings you could do a me....prise the o-ring off, shake all the trillions of minute bearings into a yoghurt pot then repeat as for the caged bearings....bear in mind theyre are quite hard to seat all of them at the same time....and do one cup at a time

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tighten until the bearings feel notchy then back it off 1/2 a turn

Best to not tighten it that much, it will brinell the races and the bearing will die very quickly :)

Tighten the top cap a bit at a time and check the bearings each time.

To check for tight bearings hold the front wheel off the floor using the frame, the bars should fall easily to either side; if they dont then headset is too tight.

To check for loose bearings hold the front wheel off the floor holding the front axle/bottom of forks and shake the bike alittle; if you feel any clunking then the headset is too loose.

If you find the headset is loose in one direction but tight when the front wheel is turned through 90 degrees then you probably have a bent steerer tube (more likely on steel steererd forks than aluminium).

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OK, i was playing football, ball hit the cable somehow, even though it is braided it snapped near the olive and leaked. I took it to a local bike shop to get it re-bled etc (I've never done it before). £15 later there is barely any bite there not even enough to do a stoppie! Help please? (old hope mini i think)

Now my rear brake, magura hs33 05+, i tighten the tpa until it apears to be max, it is still the same and then kind of resets it self so i do the same with the tpa. Today i have been doing the same but now when i pull the leaver after tightening the tpa, it clicks and resets :blink: . Doing all this, i was trying to get my leaver to pull back as little as possible, i have narrowed it down to possible new pads as my koxx browns seem nearly all gone.

All help appreciated! cheers

Edited by Sonny Clarke
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Ok hears one why on koxx forx are the steerer tu be and actual fork made from diffent metals? I have just snaped some and can see the differnces in the metals this leads on to, why have they not welded the fork and sterer tube together rather than the thing that holds them in place at the moment (looks like it has been pressed in)?

Edited by kristov
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OK, i was playing football, ball hit the cable somehow, even though it is braided it snapped near the olive and leaked. I took it to a local bike shop to get it re-bled etc (I've never done it before). £15 later there is barely any bite there not even enough to do a stoppie! Help please? (old hope mini i think)

This is a hope hose? There are no olives, its a proper hydraulic connection, if youve split the hose then you need to get the end refitted. If your lbs hasnt repaired the hose then your local hope dealer should be able to do it or talk nicely to hope and they should do it it for you; give them a ring and check its possible to refit the ends (pretty sure it is).

Have you tried repeatedly pumping the lever? If the pads arent moving then the bleed is still f**ked and the hose could well be leaking air into the system. If the pads are hitting the disk but its not working then your pads are likely contaminated with oil, when the hose split the oil more than likely tracked down it and ran straight into the pads - throughly degrease the disk and you will probably need new pads aswell if theyve been badly contaminated. Try burning the pads off over a gas ring and see if that helps, I would guess you need new pads though.

Now my rear brake, magura hs33 05+, i tighten the tpa until it apears to be max, it is still the same and then kind of resets it self so i do the same with the tpa. Today i have been doing the same but now when i pull the leaver after tightening the tpa, it clicks and resets :blink: . Doing all this, i was trying to get my leaver to pull back as little as possible, i have narrowed it down to possible new pads as my koxx browns seem nearly all gone.

All help appreciated! cheers

Sounds as though youve part stripped the TPA or something similar, not sure how the new model TPA works though. Get a replacement metal TPA wheel from tarty and see if its better. Its always more advisable to reset the pads rather than use loads of TPA adjustment :)

Ok hears one why on koxx forx are the steerer tu be and actual fork made from diffent metals? I have just snaped some and can see the differnces in the metals this leads on to, why have they not welded the fork and sterer tube together rather than the thing that holds them in place at the moment (looks like it has been pressed in)?

The steerer tube is likely to be made from a stiffer, more resilient material to resist bending, the legs are likely to be springier to aid with front wheel moves like hoks and taps, also to absorp some impacts.

Theres no need to have a weld if there is sufficient material to support a decent interference fit. Pushfit + glue is more than strong enough (testimony to that is the fact that your forks broke somewhere else) and it avoids the problem with the welding HAZ (Heat Affected Zone) which puts large stress raisers into the material :)

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Ah hi there, iv got this 26" rim and im having serious difficulties fitting my 20" tyre. Is there any way i could make this fit?

Why the hell would you want to fit a 20'' tyre to a 26" rim. It just wont happen, if you look at it from mathmatical perspective you would have to stretch the beading (a piece of steel wire) from 125.6" long to 163.28". Now I know that cables stretch, but I've never seen one stretch by 30%, in fact I would say that even with a machine that would be impossible.

Theres a creaking sound when I turn my handlebars.

Anyone know what this could be? Cant tell where its coming from, headset perhaps. Ill have a go at tightening it all up around there to see if it helps, but otherwise Im stuck. Let me know what you think...

I know that this seams unlikely, but it could in fact be a loose stem/bar connection. Make sure that all of the bolts are corretly tightened up and that the threads are ok. Otherwise it is likely to be bearings, either headset as before suggested or it could even be your wheel.

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Why the hell would you want to fit a 20'' tyre to a 26" rim. It just wont happen, if you look at it from mathmatical perspective you would have to stretch the beading (a piece of steel wire) from 125.6" long to 163.28". Now I know that cables stretch, but I've never seen one stretch by 30%, in fact I would say that even with a machine that would be impossible.

I personally think he got one of those new Armstrong S tyres. He just hasn't figured it out yet.

Edited by Disasterboy
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