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Over-bleeding


Danny Kearns

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Hey guys, I've had this problem before and KrisBoats did it for me, but can't remember how he did it.

Problem is, Im running a thin rim on the front, and got full compound on pads, bled it fine, and it pulls in well far.

I remember Kris saying you have to put to much water in the system so that the pads are already pushing out before you've pressed the lever.

Any of you guys able to give me step by step insructions on how it's done.

Thanks,

Danny.

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I did this once, I took the seal out the leaver and topped the resivwire (sp?) up and pushed the lever back on it was hard to push on but when it did the pistons came out about 2mm either side

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I use the over bleed on even usual bleeds, but thought it was something just i did, was going to wiki it sometime

Techniquie... Basic bath bleed with a difference

* Take off the grub screws.

* Take off the lever, (leave it all inside your bucket)

* Use an alen key to push the seal and bleed your brake normally

* pop out the seal why its still under water

* do up the grub screwas on both ends

* then pop in the seal and bolt the lever on under water

* This should (if your cyclinders are good) almost fully pushed out

Then just undo the grub on your lever till water slowly trickles out

* On a normal bleed let it dribble out until it stops

* but if you want it left over bled, let enough water out but untill your cyclinders are out far enough that your happy with

Hope i helped :)

Edited by Simpsonman =)
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Don't understand, What I can make out i sthe you pumped the pads out while bleeding? Just loosen the bleed bolt, while pushing the pads back into the cylinder. they keep the pads pressed into the cylinders and top up the water.

Make sence? Probably not. >_<

Sorry I have VERY little knowledge about bleeding maggies. (only done one! EVER)

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I use the over bleed on even usual bleeds, but thought it was something just i did, was going to wiki it sometime

Techniquie... Basic bath bleed with a difference

* Take off the grub screws.

* Take off the lever, (leave it all inside your bucket)

* Use an alen key to push the seal and bleed your brake normally

* pop out the seal why its still under water

* do up the grub screwas on both ends

* then pop in the seal and bolt the lever on under water

* This should (if your cyclinders are good) almost fully pushed out

Then just undo the grub on your lever till water slowly trickles out

* On a normal bleed let it dribble out until it stops

* but if you want it left over bled, let enough water out but untill your cyclinders are out far enough that your happy with

Hope i helped :)

Awesome. By "Taking the lever off", do you mean disconnecting it from the hose ?

EDIT: LOL, You obviously mean lever blade :P

Edited by Danny Kearns
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Awesome. By "Taking the lever off", do you mean disconnecting it from the hose ?

EDIT: LOL, You obviously mean lever blade :P

Yea sorry just the lever blade, by pumping it with an allen key, it saves having to take the blade off in the water where its cold :P

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this bucket thing sounds like a right faff :P

Pah i did buy a bleed kit, but i stuck my finger in the siringe one sunny day in the summer, and my finger got stuck.... So i had to hammer it off my finger, which:

a) Hurt and also

b ) Broke the siringe

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i did it by putting match sticks (well...small twigs from the garden..) under the pads, so that the pistons were already slightly out. Then just bleed as normal...

this bucket thing sounds like a right faff :P

Just tried that, once you remove the sticks, pads just go back.

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If that's the case, you're doing it wrong :P

I did it by bleeding the brake normally, then closing off the bleed valve by the pistons. I then attached the syringe to the lever bleed hole, and pressed some water in. 'cos the system's closed, it forces the pads out. Put something behind the pads (e.g. a penny, screwdriver, whatever - I usually got Mat Hudson to hold them for me :P) and make sure the water's in the system. Undo the tube from the bleed hole at the lever, then put the bleed bolt in. If you do that, the water stays in the system because the brake's pistons are sitting further out, so you've filled the system while it's been made larger.

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There imight be an easier way.

Take off the lever blade.

File down the lever stop and refit it. (This will make the lever way to far away from the bar).

Bath bleed it in the normal way, with the TPA wound right out.

Tighten up the lever reach adjuster so it's in the right place, and the piston in the lever should be in the right place, with the TPA wound right off, and the pistons will move out.

It should work I think, the lever piston will be sticking out a bit when you bleed it so it might try and draw some air in, but if you bleed it under water and wind the adjuster in, (Pushing the piston back into the body), then it will seal up properly.

I have never done this, it is totally off the top of my head but I think it should work.

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If that's the case, you're doing it wrong :P

I did it by bleeding the brake normally, then closing off the bleed valve by the pistons. I then attached the syringe to the lever bleed hole, and pressed some water in. 'cos the system's closed, it forces the pads out. Put something behind the pads (e.g. a penny, screwdriver, whatever - I usually got Mat Hudson to hold them for me :P) and make sure the water's in the system. Undo the tube from the bleed hole at the lever, then put the bleed bolt in. If you do that, the water stays in the system because the brake's pistons are sitting further out, so you've filled the system while it's been made larger.

Bingo, marks got the right idea. Just the whole re-attaching the syringe bits a tad different.

Just bleed it like normal, when your done put your lever grub screw back in like normal and then push some extra through the syringe while its still on your slave and it'll push the pads out. Hold thm in place, remove the syringe and pop the bolt back in your slave.

Shame to all those suggesting baths, buckets and pumping the levers whilst underwater. Double shame to the top up the lever idea (air is bad inside your brake :P)

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There imight be an easier way.

Take off the lever blade.

File down the lever stop and refit it. (This will make the lever way to far away from the bar).

That won't work I don't think, because the master piston will bottom out on the cylinder. Actually I have no idea what you're talking about.

I've never tried it, but holding the piston out of the cylinder (as Mark has said) will have the right effect - just to increase the volume of fluid in the system. I'm not quite sure about popping the seal off the lever, seems a bit unnecessary to me. But I'm not totally sure it's a good idea unless you NEED to do this. The pistons will be further out and there will be more leverage on them when you brake, which I guess could damage the piston or the seals. On the other hand I've never seen this happen, so meh.

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Danny i thought you was running an echo rim? if your pads really dont touch with a normal bleed and full tpa or something and an echo rim, theres something seriously wrong.

my zoo forks dead pads and echo rim, i dont even have to use tpa and my brakes too far away from the bars, so i have to use warn pads.

and i never knew about this over bleeding thing, wont it be abit dodgy if your pads fall out? lol.

Matx

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Danny i thought you was running an echo rim? if your pads really dont touch with a normal bleed and full tpa or something and an echo rim, theres something seriously wrong.

my zoo forks dead pads and echo rim, i dont even have to use tpa and my brakes too far away from the bars, so i have to use warn pads.

and i never knew about this over bleeding thing, wont it be abit dodgy if your pads fall out? lol.

Matx

the pads wont fall out...unless the pdas extend farther than the prongs on the slaves...which would require insane over bleeding to achieve

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