Jump to content

Help Please!


vinny.p

Recommended Posts

I'm still unsure on getting a 24" mtb. I've got a 24" bmx at the moment and to be honest i shouldn't of bothered. Don't get me wrong it's a great ride but due to the serious limit of forks available i wouldn't bother, let alone run sus on them. Even lowered they'd be too high.

If i do decide to invest i'll be buying the 08 NS Capital. The geo seems the best for how i ride.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so 24 inch frames.....

You can get a 24 inch bmx frame, they are called cruisers, basically they have shortish forks with high rise bmx bars, with bmx components, the practicallity of these is pretty low. Not really to good for anything.

Secondly is a street based 24inch mtb specific frame. These are based on certain bmx components such as seatpost sizes bb sizes, and sometimes a rear spaced hub. If your wanting to run rigids youll need a frame based around a 460mm axle to crown fork (85ish mm) though most rigid forks are a little shorter than this at 425.

Im not to keen on cruisers so here is a list of suggestions for 24inch specific frames that should run fine on rigids or suspension.

Static Plan B

Ns new 2008 frames Suburban and Capital

USB molly needs to be imported from USA.

Samoons new frame.

24/7

Dmr Transition

Charge

Revell

NPJ

Yeah all these frames are pretty good all round 24 frames. Its just a case of components. Some will handle better than others on suspension compared to rigids. Try to look out for a 24 specific frame as these will handle better.

What specs do you want for the bike? Brakes? Gears? Pegs? Cranks?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What specs do you want for the bike? Brakes? Gears? Pegs? Cranks?

IM not to bothered about brakes as long as it has a back one (preferably u brake) and it must be single speed, i hate pegs so i wont be running them, and as long as the cranks arent 1 piece i aint to fussed.

Must be able to take front suspension!

Ive been looking at the barcode 2thirds 24" bike, it looks really good imo and it looks like it can take front suspension with no probs.

heres a link..........................

http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?prod=5bc-2thirds

Whats everyone think then?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You wanting to buy a complete then? How much do you want to spend or is it just an idea at the moment?

For the cost of the barcode and suspension you could buy a pretty good entry bike, or a very good second hand one.

U brakes are only just going into 24s so bit hard to find. USB's have them but are around £350 to import...

If your after a second hand build ill take a look for you. Same with new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ive never ran a U and never seen why id need to a good set up V is all ive ever needed. U's are for some reason "cooler" in bmx world

I've never managed to snag my clothing on a U-brake arm on my BMX. You'd also do pretty well getting much below something like 33:12 with a V-brake on the chainstays, which is the usual place to have them in BMX terms. U-brakes are just way lower profile than V-brakes, and don't stick out from past the stays nearly as much, and the way that they do stick out is with their rounded shoulders instead of the fork-like arms of a V-brake.

I managed to get my U-brake to work perfectly using 1-finger braking, giving me enough power to lock the wheel easily, but still modulate well. Just used a regular Hombre, regular springs, Clarks Odyssey pad rip-off, a chrome rim and an Odyssey Monolever small, bent to shape. If you know how to set them up, it's easy to get a BMX brake to work well. There are loads of things you can do to make them better. The main problem trials riders converting to BMX seem to have is that they try and ride their BMX like a trials bike, and expect it to act like one, which it won't do (Which is also the whole point of changing your bike...). My brake was still as smooth feeling and snappy as my trials brake though, having said all that ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'd also do pretty well getting much below something like 33:12 with a V-brake on the chainstays, which is the usual place to have them in BMX terms.

I can't say i've ever seen a Vee mount anywhere other than on the top of the seatstay? Or was that a typo :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nooooooobzzzzzzzzzzereeeezzzzzzz

Cruisers, are just giant long bmxs and in general ride pretty wank, if you want one just get a BMX. Cruisers with any suspension will ride like shit the bb will be in the sky (which isnt a good thing on this kind of bike) and the headtube angle will be shit.,

USB bikes are loverly, But there is no Uk importer so it will be 500+ to get one frame only, they also only make limited nimbers at any one time.

If you visit www.ridestreet.co.uk then you will be able to pick up a cheap DMR frame and parts, and build a very respecatble bike.

I have a DMR rhythm, with some lowered marzocchi dj3s at 80mm and a pretty BMX set up and I love it.

I would go for barcodes and things like that because in fairness... there pretty shite... Add me on msn if you want any more advise, or want pics of my bike or somthing :)

safe xx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...