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Freewheels?


austen

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So basicaly i was wondering if a tensile freewheel would fit on my dmr? Im tired of buying acs's for it because they just break within two weeks! <_<

Does anyone know if it will fit or not?

cheers, Austen.

changed my mind on the tensile, now wondering if a tryall freewheel will fit on the rear without being welded?

cheers!

Edited by austen
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So basicaly i was wondering if a tensile freewheel would fit on my dmr? Im tired of buying acs's for it because they just break within two weeks! <_<

Does anyone know if it will fit or not?

cheers, Austen.

No They wont go on the back.

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yeah 36 super strong engagements. but yeah 90 is alot for what you get unless you find one second hand on a bmx forum or something

cheers! ill look around and see if i can find a second hand one! B)

tryall, they last forver on the back eno if you can though

if i cant find a second hand bmx eno ill go for the tryall as they are cheaper!

cheers for the help guys!

Austen.

Edited by austen
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The freewheels will fit onto your DMR rear Revolver hub no problem ( If your still using that hub? as they come standard on the Dirt jumpers)

Anyways, the threads are all standard 1.37" x 24tpi so most modern freewheel will fit onto your hub(Y)

I would suggest something like the VIZ/ Monty freewheels, both very well priced and great performance! or the Try-all! Or if your feeling generous definitely the ENO. I have used my ENO for over a year now, and its still going smooth and strong!

I hope this helps!

Thanks

Dan

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yeh the tensile will fit! have been sitting here for ages with a ACS in one hand and a tensile in the other trying to see why!

But they will, or should anyway!

id say get a tensile, i have nothing but endless problems with my two enos, hate them! had my tensile abut a month and not had a single problem with it!

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You know ACSs loosen themselves on the front of trials bikes?

Trials freewheels will loosen themselves on the back. This is because the lockring threads are reversed, as the freewheel is fitted on the other way around. So they tighten themselves instead of loosening.

Then when you put one on the back, the (trials) freewheel would be the wrong way round, so the lockring will just loosen instead of tighten.

I'd never touch a freewheel with a welder, because if you need to replace a part of it, then you're screwed. Best thing to do is get one, clean all the threads up (get rid of grease etc..) then loctite it in place.

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As it happens, I'm using a Tensile freewheel on a DMR revolver hub! It's amazing, the best I have ever used. It's only skipped twice, and both of those has been pedalling along.

I first did a small weld on mine, one spot, but it wasnt enough, I don't think, so it now fashions 8 spot welds all the way round :)

Go for it man, its great.

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You know ACSs loosen themselves on the front of trials bikes?

Trials freewheels will loosen themselves on the back. This is because the lockring threads are reversed, as the freewheel is fitted on the other way around. So they tighten themselves instead of loosening.

Then when you put one on the back, the (trials) freewheel would be the wrong way round, so the lockring will just loosen instead of tighten.

I'd never touch a freewheel with a welder, because if you need to replace a part of it, then you're screwed. Best thing to do is get one, clean all the threads up (get rid of grease etc..) then loctite it in place.

That can't possibly happen, because it doesn't matter wherer the freewheel lives on your bike, it has to turn in the same direction, and the other way it engages.

But yeh, but it, open it, clean everything, reassemble with WD40, then loctite it and tighten it up as tight as you can. Use a lump hammer on the centre punch to drive it round.

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The viz and try-all ones are just impractical to have on the back. They are difficult to open without removing the whole thing from the hub so servicing them is really awkward.

The others should loosen themselves as you cycle just as an acs does on the front.

The tensile is the cheapest option but they aren't that great. a try-all is good but you don't need all the engagments.

eno is really the best one to go for they are simple to sort, The parts are readily available and they will last for years, if you look after it right.

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The freewheels will fit onto your DMR rear Revolver hub no problem ( If your still using that hub? as they come standard on the Dirt jumpers)

Anyways, the threads are all standard 1.37" x 24tpi so most modern freewheel will fit onto your hub(Y)

I would suggest something like the VIZ/ Monty freewheels, both very well priced and great performance! or the Try-all! Or if your feeling generous definitely the ENO. I have used my ENO for over a year now, and its still going smooth and strong!

I hope this helps!

Thanks

Dan

yeah im still using the same hub.

does it have to be welded to work?

because i dont have a welder and i dont no anyone that does :S

cheers for the help guys!

Austen

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On a try-all freewheel the lockring is on the opposite side from most other freewheels, this is because it's designed to go on the front and instead of loosening the lock ring just pushes against the crank arm.

so if you put a try-all on the back it will be very awkward to tighten the lockring so you've just got to hope the lockring stays tight. you could just just locktite on the threads and it should be fine. but it might not be.

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