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Servicing A Pro2


ogre

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Not based on the Hope XC's I've pulled apart (But I'll reiterate that I've never opened a Pro2. It should just be a matter of pulling on the cassette - officially you're meant to take the end cap off the axle first, but pulling on the cassette is easier a lot of the time.

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Sometimes you have to give them candy... :blink:

Pull harder. You can try taking the cassette off and taking the end cap off the hub first as moving them one by one may be easier...

end cap? (bit on the end of the axle?) i've tried pullin' that off tohah

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I had this problem a few weeks ago, i found that clamping (with a molewrench) onto the end cap... and tugging and twisting works.

Dont bother trying to just pull of the cassette body, its just a much harder method.

Ill get a pic for you in a sec, makes it much easier!

Charlie

Ok..

Just put the mole grip like this:

DSCF3392.jpg

Pull and wiggle and the same time and it should ease off:

DSCF3393.jpg

After that the cassette body should pull off, do it slow... watching for the pawls and springs!

Edited by strelly
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They're the same as Profile's.

Put one of the bolts in the non-drive side, and start to tap it with a mallet. This will push the axle through the body, and push off the end cap of the axle on the otherside.

Then you'll have the axle, with a hub shell bearing, and driver etc on it.

Now you need to get the drive off, just open up a vice so the cog fits on top, and put the other bolt in the axle, and tap it with the mallet. This then pushes the axle the other way so everything comes off.

Now it's all in bits, and you can start taking the pawls and springs out of the driver body (remember which way they go!*) Now clean up the bearing, just wipe any grease/oil off it with some kitchen roll.

Slot the axle through the drive side (give it a clean first), so it sits in place through the hub bearing still in the hubshell, now get the other hubshell bearing, and slide it down.

With alll the pawls and springs out of the drive body, slide that onto the axle, and gently tap it down so the bearing sits nicely in place in the hubshell. Using the driver keeps the bearing nice and flush, and having the pawls and springs out stops you from breaking stuff.

You should have the axle sat firmly in place between the bearings. Now just clean up inside the ratchet, and clean all the springs and pawls, and then the driver body too.

Now it's time to put the pawls and springs back in place. * It's vital that you remembered which way they go, because otherwise you'll have it all in the wrong way and it won't engage.

I find it's easier to slot the spring in first, then the pawl goes on second.

It's kinda fiddley, but you'll manage it.

Once they're all in, spin the driver so it'll click as it goes round (anti-clockwise?) as it spins, start pushing it down. This should start engaging the pawls so they'll stay in the ratchet.

Once that's in, just get the end caps for the axle, and press them on (tap them with the mallet too)

Now when you put it in the frame and tighten it up, the end caps will then be firmly pressed in place, and you're done!

You can put some thin oil on the pawls and springs before you put the driver in, something like Finishline oil is perfect. But I've ran my Profile dry since I've had it and it doesn't skip. (Only when the bearings break!)

EDIT: Forgot to mention! On Profile's there's a small washer that goes between the hubshell and the driver, not sure if you get them in ProII's but keep an eye out for it if there is one. You'll need to put that in before you slot the driver in, otherwise the driver won't spin when you put it all back together!

Edited by Dan6061
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