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Bleeding Hs33 With Diesel


Czar-rider

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I dont know why 10000's of people on this forum bleed there brakes with the wrong correct stuff. For example bleeding a hs33 with water? How stupid is that may be easy and cheap for you lazy people but in the end it stretches the seals inside Basically all the internals will be ruined.

I work in a local bikeshop i have kids who bring there xc bikes in for brakes to be bleeded they bleed hope mono minis and hayes nines with mineral oil which is the hassel of draining the fluid out cleaning it then fit new and then bleed it.

I dont know whats wrong with using the original stuff besides your brake is mostly likely to freeze in cold weather if its bleeded with water.

HA

There only cheap shitty brakes though so who cares, water bleeds give a better feel and how often do the seals die in them :o?

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Since were onabout diesel, I bled my brakes with WD and they're f*****n sh*T. And to be honest the best two are water with a tad od de-icer or the original Magura Royal blood... But think about it water isn't hydrolic and it isn't a lube, and hydrolic brakes need a lube which lubricates the brake therfore Magura Royal blood is the best :S So thats what I'm going to do next (Y)

Oli
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I'm quite intrigued to know how that's possible, if Diesel rots the seals on my AstraVan, I'm pretty sure it won't have any trouble rotting seals in a HS33.

Because your astra will not have seals for mineral oil thats why maguras work on water/diesle because the seals are good at coping with cerosive liquids.

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I dont know why 10000's of people on this forum bleed there brakes with the wrong correct stuff. For example bleeding a hs33 with water? How stupid is that may be easy and cheap for you lazy people but in the end it stretches the seals inside Basically all the internals will be ruined.

I work in a local bikeshop i have kids who bring there xc bikes in for brakes to be bleeded they bleed hope mono minis and hayes nines with mineral oil which is the hassel of draining the fluid out cleaning it then fit new and then bleed it.

I dont know whats wrong with using the original stuff besides your brake is mostly likely to freeze in cold weather if its bleeded with water.

HA

[/quote

i agree with you my friend ! i also work in the bike trade and cant believe some people , jus do it propperly ! it will save u loads of money in the long run and if you have spent all that money on your bike why not take the time to learn a bit about it it isn't hard or boring if you like bikes !

A HYDROLIC BRAKE HAS ITS NAME FOR A REASON MAGURA ROYAL BLOOD IS NOT EXPENSIVE , IT IS COMPARED TO WATER BUT YOUR BRAKES WILL LAST YOU ALOT LONGER AND SAVE YOU ALOT OF MONEY HAVING TO REPLACE THEM , IF YOUR STILL TOO TIGHT TO GO THE MAGURA ROOT THERE ARE OTHER CHEAPER OPTIONS SUCH AS MOTORBIKE SHOPS AND CAR GARAGES THAT SELL HYDROLIC FLUID ! WATER IS NOT AS DENSE AS HYDROLIC FLUID SO IT WILL NEVER FEEL AS GOOD !

magurablood in small retails at £4 lol lol

Edited by 2hammered
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  • 3 weeks later...
Well you will never get diesle out of the bath without blowing yourself up and it is better to use anti-freeze so they dont freeze in winter.

Andrew :)

ignition of diesel is least of worries. there are fitters who work on buses who smoke around diesel spills and diesel pumps. it need high temp to ignite

on the ofchance you do blowup, i am not liable

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My my some great replies here :P

Right, time to dispel a myth...

Myth number one: "when playing with diesel I'm likely to set myself on fire"

Well aside from the notion of anyone playing with naked flames and flamable liquid being somewhat stupid you will be pleased to know that even if you threw a match into a bucket of the stuff it won't ignite. The reason for this is evaporation. Petrol evaporates at room temperature and pressure and it is this vapour that actually ignites. Diesel evapourates at far higher temperatures meaning it will not ignite.

As for bleeding brakes with it, I wouldn't have a clue as I've not tried it myself, but a couple of points I would make are:

One, diesel does have a good lubricity which will prolong the life of the magura seals.

Two, it is less viscous than magura fluid, giving a lighter feel.

Three, it is slightly corrosive to engines (I use it to clean cylinder bores of carbon build up). However in reference to it rotting engine seals I wouldn't have thought it to be that bad. Scopse, weren't you running some form of biodiesel in your Astravan? If so then that will explain the issues you are having as biodiesel is highly corrosive to most natural rubbers and aluminium.

A HYDROLIC BRAKE HAS ITS NAME FOR A REASON MAGURA ROYAL BLOOD IS NOT EXPENSIVE , IT IS COMPARED TO WATER BUT YOUR BRAKES WILL LAST YOU ALOT LONGER AND SAVE YOU ALOT OF MONEY HAVING TO REPLACE THEM , IF YOUR STILL TOO TIGHT TO GO THE MAGURA ROOT THERE ARE OTHER CHEAPER OPTIONS SUCH AS MOTORBIKE SHOPS AND CAR GARAGES THAT SELL HYDROLIC FLUID ! WATER IS NOT AS DENSE AS HYDROLIC FLUID SO IT WILL NEVER FEEL AS GOOD !

Not usually one to do this, but this just made me laugh. Hard!

Hydraulic (the correct spelling) is used to define a system that is operated by a fluid, any fluid, be it water, magura blood, or some of the bodily fluids that people on here like to joke about. Hence a hydraulic brake can technically be run on any fluid you can get hold of. I'd love to see the look on a mechanics face when you ask him for hydraulic fluid...

Water is less dense than magura blood (they are both hydraulic fluids) which gives a lighter feel to the lever. This is something that most people on here would regard as a good thing.

As for water being bad for seals. In this one instance you are correct. Due to the lower lubricity of water, it will not keep the seals properly lubricated and they will wear out quicker than with an oil based fluid (such as magura blood). What I've found (note this is personal experience) is that while the seals will eventually wear out on water, I managed to get three years of life out of the brake before I had any issues. God knows how many TPA's I broke in that time.

It boils down to what you see as being more important; a lighter braking action, or you brake lasting longer. There will always be people arguing both sides of the story.

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After reading through this thread and getting more and more frustrated with the bickering about age and people harping on incorrectly about diesel fuel comparing it to petrol in terms of how flammable it is and not actually seeing any reasonable answer to any question I was most relieved to come across OD404's post!

Many thanks for the great detail in your explanation, well informed and helpful.

Edited by Ash1984
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I dont know why 10000's of people on this forum bleed there brakes with the wrong correct stuff. For example bleeding a hs33 with water? How stupid is that may be easy and cheap for you lazy people but in the end it stretches the seals inside Basically all the internals will be ruined.

I work in a local bikeshop i have kids who bring there xc bikes in for brakes to be bleeded they bleed hope mono minis and hayes nines with mineral oil which is the hassel of draining the fluid out cleaning it then fit new and then bleed it.

I dont know whats wrong with using the original stuff besides your brake is mostly likely to freeze in cold weather if its bleeded with water.

HA

But think of the economics of this. Water is free. HS33 oil is expensive.

End of the day, water may damage seals, but I doubt the Hs33 will last long enough to corrode. And even if it does, its cheap enough to replace. Theres a million little bits available on most bike store sites, usually at the expense of a bottle of oil in the first place!

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it just doesnt make sense bleeding an hs33 with anything other than water to be honest...its free, easy to get hold of, only reportedly does a small amount of easily rectifiable damage to said hydraulic brake, it gives a lighter lever feel, no need to worry if your brake starts leaking-water wont corrode paintwork or dissolve grease

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