Jump to content

Hope Mod Hub...


NVWOCI WVS

Recommended Posts

after all this talk of people wanting a hope mod hub i've decided to make one! it's going to be a hope mono with 116mm spacing...decided you dont need the wide freehub body (obviously going to be single speed on a mod!) so im taking 19mm off that side, then 19mm off the axel and turning the end of the axle so the spacer fits on (Y) anyone see a reason for it not to work?

has it been done before?

heres a pic to illustrate my master plan slightly better...

post-13468-1201799425_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm it should work (Y) are you going to put the bearings back in once cut down or are there another set were you cut up to ?

there are two sets of bearings in the freehub body, so if the freehub body is so much narrower, it should run fine on just the one set (i hope!)

Thread for the freebodys lock ring?

cutting a thread isnt too much of a problem (Y)

Sounds good, but the pickups are shite on that hub if i remember and skip. There not amazing for trials

hope monos arent too bad, similar to the xc minus the disc mounts...back in the day everyone used them! the proIII replaced the mono and the proII replaced the XC

Edited by samdoman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds good, will be fine running on the one bearing on the drive side; its only got to support a lot shorter axle.

slightly off topic but is the ratchet ring ona pro2 trials the same internal/external diameter as the ratchet ring on a normal pro2? was thinking about upgrading the pickup on my dh bikes wheels.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anything upto 20mm taken off the freehub body is fine, beyond that you will find there isnt enough space inside the freehub body to thread properly. The freehub will require extra support if you want the bearing to last, I made a bronze bush to take the place of the alloy spacer, a nice running fit on the bore in the freehub, keeps everything in line. Not a lot else to it really, those generation Hope hubs are agriculturally robust and will stand a lot of abuse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anything upto 20mm taken off the freehub body is fine, beyond that you will find there isnt enough space inside the freehub body to thread properly. The freehub will require extra support if you want the bearing to last, I made a bronze bush to take the place of the alloy spacer, a nice running fit on the bore in the freehub, keeps everything in line. Not a lot else to it really, those generation Hope hubs are agriculturally robust and will stand a lot of abuse.

how did the bush fit? will one set of bearing not do the job then? :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The alloy sleeve that you put on the axle before the freehub body, just make a bronze one of them that's large enough diameter to be a nice running fit on the inside of the freehub body, it's directly underneath the pawls so supports it well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sounds good, will be fine running on the one bearing on the drive side; its only got to support a lot shorter axle.

slightly off topic but is the ratchet ring ona pro2 trials the same internal/external diameter as the ratchet ring on a normal pro2? was thinking about upgrading the pickup on my dh bikes wheels.....

The ratchet ring is about the same as far as I'm aware, and aren't both a 24t job?

Surely it's the offset pawls you need to speed up the engagement, Craig?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yer, i'll cut the axle in the metal working shop at school, might try and cut the freehub body myself too if i'm having a good day, if not i'll take it to the local engineer, i get on with him quite well, which is useful as he always does me little favours like this (Y)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ratchet ring is about the same as far as I'm aware, and aren't both a 24t job?

Surely it's the offset pawls you need to speed up the engagement, Craig?

bugger think you might be right there mate. hmmm oh well :(

if you can post up pics of the hub as it gradually gets changed, would be great to see it go together and could almost be used as a how to for other riders interested in doing it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It should be fine...the only thing is the rim will need dishing towards the non drive side obviously.

I doubt it, because in a MTB, you need to dish the wheel to the drive side, so they should balance each other out pretty much, it might be about 5mm out or so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...