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Modstock Frames - Does The Wheel Move Around ?


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Well, can people who USE/USED these frames tell me whether the wheel keeps moving in the dropouts?

I was going to sell a whole bike on a modstock A1 (accidentally got it instead of a normal A1) but the customer says that he doesn't want it because his mate has big issues with the wheel moving around in the dropouts.

Is that true or does he just have no idea about how to tighten the bolts?

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Well when i rode mod, i hated having to set the back wheel up it was never ending problems. If i used smooth snail cams then unless you have big profile or king bolts so you can really tighten them up the wheel always moves towards the driveside after a couple of hops giving rubish tension. So i changed to knotch cams and found monty to be best but still you could never get great tension like stock it was always to tight or to loose. It will be the same with mod stock. Best thing to do i would say is use some snail cams with notchs to set your chainstay lenght and use a 74kings tensioner for tension.

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On my Adamant A1, the snailcam (little pieces of alu shaped like a snail keep the rear wheel in tension) does move a slight fraction (not enough for you to notice or affect your riding) from time to time, but thats only because of small 5mm allen bolts which are hard to tighten really tight with an allen key. plus it puts less pedal-torque stress on your frame (specifically the lower CNC yoke between the bb) over a long period of the frames lifespan from riding-in-anger management.

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