Bleeding A Hope Mono Trial 07

[Karl Butcher]

Hey after me falling off my bike and bending my lever i had to replace the lever but now it needs bleeding!

i done it be for years ago! but now i forgot damit!

so if you could help me out how to bleed it that would be great!

thanks

[AdamR28]

Just to be sure - does it actually NEED bleeding, or have you just swapped the lever blade and think it needs bleeding? Changing the lever blade doesn't mean it needs a bleed.

Either way, there's a manual on the Hope website

[MattB]

Right this is how I do it and its worked for me.

You gonna need dot 4/5.1, an 8mm spanner, 4mm allen key and something to wedge in the caliper.

1. Postion the brake lever so the resivior is facing upwards and is fairly level.

2. Take you pad, clip and pin out and take the cap off the bleed valve on the caliper.

3. Take the cap off the resivior and remove the diaphram (you made a small starkey to get cap off).

4. Using paper/wood/whatever wedge it in the caliper to make sure the pistons can't move.

5. Top up the resivior and start pumping the lever about 20 times.

6. Hold the lever in and under the bleed valve a quater of a turn, you should feel/see air and fluid come from the valve and the lever will go into the bars. After a second or two tighten it back up.

7. Let the lever go back and keep repeating steps 5 and 6 making sure the resivior never gets empty, You should stop doing this once you feel the pull and it does not change plus there is no air coming out the bleed valve.

8. Now this is done you have to put evrything back togther. Its best to do the diaphrame and cap first but before you put pads in wipe your caliper so as to ensure no contamination.

9. Put wheel back in bike and ride .

If it don't work you can try bleeding it again or taking to a shop.

Matt

Edit-Try what adam said it might need adjusting using the little brass barrel.

Edited September 26, 2007 by mattyboy2384

[Karl Butcher]

Just to be sure - does it actually NEED bleeding, or have you just swapped the lever blade and think it needs bleeding? Changing the lever blade doesn't mean it needs a bleed.

Either way, there's a manual on the Hope website

I swapped the lever blade over and loads of oil come out the bottom

i looked on the Hope website and couldnt see anything about it but i will look again!

Right this is how I do it and its worked for me.

You gonna need dot 4/5.1, an 8mm spanner, 4mm allen key and something to wedge in the caliper.

1. Postion the brake lever so the resivior is facing upwards and is fairly level.

2. Take you pad, clip and pin out and take the cap off the bleed valve on the caliper.

3. Take the cap off the resivior and remove the diaphram (you made a small starkey to get cap off).

4. Using paper/wood/whatever wedge it in the caliper to make sure the pistons can't move.

5. Top up the resivior and start pumping the lever about 20 times.

6. Hold the lever in and under the bleed valve a quater of a turn, you should feel/see air and fluid come from the valve and the lever will go into the bars. After a second or two tighten it back up.

7. Let the lever go back and keep repeating steps 5 and 6 making sure the resivior never gets empty, You should stop doing this once you feel the pull and it does not change plus there is no air coming out the bleed valve.

8. Now this is done you have to put evrything back togther. Its best to do the diaphrame and cap first but before you put pads in wipe your caliper so as to ensure no contamination.

9. Put wheel back in bike and ride .

If it don't work you can try bleeding it again or taking to a shop.

Matt

Edit-Try what adam said it might need adjusting using the little brass barrel.

Thanks man i will give it ago!

[ManxTrialSpaz]

1. Remove the wheel and brake pads to prevent contamination.

2. Push the caliper pistons back into their bores and insert a spacer between the pistons to prevent them coming out during the bleed operation.

3. If necessary reposition the brake lever so that the lever and master cylinder is horizontal to the ground.

4. Remove the master cylinder cap (item 4) using a 2mm allen key. Then remove the rubber diaphragm.

5. Place the closed end of an 8mm spanner over the bleed nipple on the brake caliper. Fit a length of clear plastic hose (approximately 30cm) onto the bleed nipple and place the free end into an empty container. The hose should be a snug fit and not fall off, the free end does not need to be submerged under brake fluid.

6. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.

7. Open the bleed nipple a 1/4 turn. Slowly pull the brake lever to the handle bars and hold. Close the bleed nipple. Release the lever.

8. Repeat step 8 until no air is seen coming out of the bleed nipple. You will need to keep refilling the reservoir during this operation. Caution, if bleeding a rear brake be careful not to spill brake fluid onto the front brake caliper and disc.

9. Ensure the pistons are fully retracted in the caliper, the pistons may require manually pressing back.

10. Place a rag around the master cylinder to catch any spillage and fill the master cylinder to just below the top surface.

11. Place the diaphragm onto the master cylinder by rolling it across the top of the master

cylinder and allow the fluid to overflow. Close the bleed nipple and remove the bleed hose. Caution, do not over tighten the bleed nipple. Wipe away any spilt fluid from the caliper and lever.

12. Fit the master cylinder cap and gently tighten with a 2mm allen key. Caution, do not over tighten cap as you are only sealing the rubber diaphragm.

13. Replace the pads and insert the wheel. Pull the lever several times to allow the pads to reset themselves to the disc.

14. Check the brake for correct function and that there are no any system leaks.

From the hope manual, just incase you want the 'proper' way to do it.

Edited September 26, 2007 by ManxTrialSpaz

[AdamR28]

I swapped the lever blade over and loads of oil come out the bottom

Hmmm... Where exactly did the oil come from?