quick_spider

Lets not forget the Buy-All shirts. I know what I'd rather have :(

Has anyone else had a nano? I'm considering one, but I'm ham fisted so might break it. My arse has a crack in it. I guess that's from sitting on it (Y) Jon

A full rotation skip will occur if there is dirt or sticky grease on the helical splines. Pretty simple really. If it skips, there's a problem. In my experience, the bed in period is a load of bollocks too. Mine skipped when I got it and after King 'fixed' it. It was changing the king grease on the helical splines to finish line wet lube that made the difference. Jon

I think it's more that people like to complain when there's something not right with their hub rather than doing anything about it.

Will you be selling the frames separately? If so, how much? Or will this follow after lots of full bikes are sold? Jon

I think there's more of a market for an Alu 24" - Curtis and Leeson have the steel market fairly well covered. Whilst a cheaper one might be nice I think Alu would be a better choice IMO mass production steel frames aren't that desirable. All the ones I've seen have been shite - look at how well the PX pitbull held up, or DMR's 24" doesn't have to be just for street. I'm happy enough with the length on the ET chainstays. gets my :ermm: Jon

That's good news. Thanks I'm not sure what year mine are, but they're the M952 splined ones. There are always sets knocking about on ebay - I think I paid around £70. The difficulty is getting a decent BB - the M950 BB's are rebuildable, but also quite rare. Jon

I've just put my XTR cranks on and i'm running a dinner plate middleburn 2 piece bash. They're much stiffer than middleburns (Y) Has anyone used a Leeson bash on XTR cranks. Does it use the cranks original spider or does it go on the XTR spline? Any pics? Does anyone know where I can get a spare XTR 5 bolt compact drive spider? Ta Jon

Either go for the Echo ones, or consider just getting a rear wheel for now - you'll get a Profile wheel for £200, then you need to lock your freewheel or get a screw on cog (~£20) If it's out of your budget, look around for a 2nd hand wheel. The profile would be a solid investment. Jon

They don't have a wider base. Stop worrying about your freehub body. Jon

Ditch the name 'Biff' and sign up with a different name. Jon

1040-50, Alu. Slight BB Rise (+20? not thought much about that), 72/73 head angle. Canti mounts (spaced wider than on an asthon) Proper Seat Tube. ^_^ Jon

More like years. If you really want a pink bmx on you can swap the hubshells - the classic hubshell is the same as the bmx one. Jon

Sorry - I thought you wanted to change the BB. Sounds like a weird one. On cheaper bottom brackets that don't run cartridge bearings there's often a lockring, a static cup and a locking cup. On my XTR BB you tighten the static cup © as far as it'll go. Then you tighten the locking cup (Y) in until the BB spindle doesn't rock from side to side, ie the bearing preload is correct. Then you tighten the lockring (:D against the BB shell to lock it all in place. Is there anyway to turn the cup where you took the lockring off? Any chance of a picture of it? Jon

Tartybikes have them in stock according to their site. Linkage The 8 Prong tool is used on XTR Bottom Brackets (M950/M952) XTR Spider lockrings and Middleburn Lockrings. Truvative BB's also use them. Hope that's of some help. I'm sure if you're friendly with your local bike shop, they'd whip the BB out for you for around a 5er, or possibly lend you the tool to do it yourself in the shop. Jon

There are two sorts of spline - the 20 point spline, and the 8 point spline. It's possible you have the wrong tool. 20 point fits this 8 point fits this The other possibility is that the tool you have is an older type and doesn't have enough clearance for thicker/longer ISIS axles. Jon

You left out the part about the 05 T-Mag Mark. My 2p: I don't like mods... Or stocks. :lol:

Next thing you know X-Ups and Crank Flips will become fashionable too.

I use my chocolate foot, but I have my cranks horizontal and my bad foot forward. The cranks are held level by the back brake (as I mentioned earlier) Another helpful hint - after you scuff, you should be heading over the bars whilst learning - you need to 'catch' yourself with the front brake in the same way you do with a g-turn. You shouldn't be aiming to scuff enough to keep the back end up - aim further otherwise the back end will drop. Imagine learning to manual - you need to go beyond the sweet spot to get to a point where you can feather the brake. Once you're doing this, you'll find it easier to turn and keep the side-side balance as you'll be much more over the top of the wheel and able to shift your weight around. Jon

Some people do them with the cranks left down, others have them level, held by the rear brake through the chain. If you're only managing one or two scuffs, I don't think you're nearly far enough forward. Have you been over the bars yet? Try it on a slope. Jon

It's common on laptops for the power socket/plug on the power supply to fail. This means the battery wont charge. Set it up running off the mains without the battery in it - see if it works at all. Wiggle the plug in the socket and see changes the situation. If it is buggered then try to assertain whether it's the socket, or the lead - check the voltage and polarity of the power supply and try an borrow one off someone else (A lot of them have the same plug) A PSU is relatively cheap to replace. To repair/replace the socket on the motherboard is expensive. Once it's in a stable state then you can look at sorting out XP. Jon

According to PX every inch you raise the front end by changes the head angle by roughly a degree. Jon

Undo the bleed screw and remove the lever blade. Does the cylinder return? If not, then the seals are sticking/damaged. To get the piston/seals out, do the above. It should just pop out. If not then poke a thin allen key/spoke down the bleed hole to push the cylinder out. I think there should be a conventional O-ring and a wiper seal (it has a u shape cross section) Jon

It obviously doesn't though. Resonance causes vibrations with massive amplitutes. It occurs when there is little damping. I've yet to see a trials frame with a good timbre. If you think about the glass example - you're shaking the glass enough to break it at it's weak points, ie defects. These defectes are at a molecular level. How much energy do you think would be needed to vibrate a metal 'glass' enough to make it shatter? What sort of frequency do you think it's likely to need? Jon