carnagr

You need to drop the front more, then drop your ass down to your tire, then shoot the back tire down and suck it up when you land. Technique wasn't great, but somehow it was still pretty smooth.

There's the whole rear derailleur thing too - a lot of people now run rigid tensioners are pretty f**kin hard to bend, since they attatch into the hanger and into the hub bolt.

That's fairly true. Oftentimes stocks are just too long for a rock, and you can get on it and reverse wedge it on a mod, but on a stock you have to do some real trickery to get around it.

Holy crap. What a low ratio. Most BMXer's would use either an 11t or a 12t with a 32 in the front. Nowadays people are all about the micro drives anyways, like 28-10, and 25-9.

This technique just kinda 'clicked' for me last week. I can only turn left, towards my forward foot, but I can do it pretty damn well. Here's what helped me: turn the bars the way you want to go. Lean into the turn a BIT with your shoulder in the direction you turn the bars. Your shoulders will now be be slightly to the side you're turning, and your hips the other way. Now do a LITTLE, I emphasize little kick. As you kick, turn the bars the opposite way you're turning, and pop your hip out to where your shoulder was. Example: if you're turning left, bars left, hips right, then kick, twist bars right (shoulder follows bars), and pop hip out left. If you've done it right, you have now successfully turned a few degrees. Once you get the hang of it you can go about 20-30 degrees easily in one motion, but at the start you'll only go about 5.

I'd say you wanna replace your chain at least once at the start of the season and once halfway through. Using it for 8 months is getting a little dangerous, read: snappy snappy.

There is the cone and the lock-nut. In order for the cones to stay put where you tighten them, you need to tighten the cone against the lock-nut. So basically tighten the cone finger tight, then tighten it just a little bit more (because it will come a bit looser when you tighten it together with the lock-nut). Now, while holding the cone, tighten down on the nut. When the nut and cone are touching, Tighten the lock-nut, and loosen the cone, so that they are tight together. This SHOULD stop the cone from coming loose. If it doesn't you can always use lock-tight, since you said you don't need this hub after a couple of weeks.

... like your moms ass.

It doesn't have anything to do with 'feeling' easier to pedal. It has a shorter radius, therefore less torque is needed in order to get the wheel moving. Pretty simple physics: T = r x F

I'm pretty sure the point is that the Try-All works for him. Maybe you prefer the Maxxis, but obviously he doesn't. Dude, just get another Try-All tire, you seem pretty set on it.

Buy a DX32, and for now, just get like a Shimano Deore hub for like 8 quid. Then save up your money and look for a used King or get one of those new Hope Pro Trial 2 hubs.

Felix Mucke

I'd definitely say take her to a shop and watch them do it, so that you can do it next time.

It's by AY school. I'll show you sometime, although it won't be for another couple weeks as I'm really busy right now.

I must be the most unlucky person ever. Whenever me and my friend find a cool line, we pull out the camera. We'll try it a few times, put the camera down, then make the line. This happened to me yesterday: 7 1/2 foot pedal gap, which for me is damned far. He puts the camera down, next try I make it AND get a flat. What a bonus. This happen to anyone else?

Never too old to start! Trials is awesome, and props to you if you start and stick to it.

It's alright if your bike's broken, but bikes are definitely WAY more fun.

Jump?

That doesn't make any sense. Either way you have one hand from each finger on a brake lever?

Miles Davis - My Funny Valentine (Live)