Cap

Yup, turn that spacer over and you'll be good to go.

Enjoyed that, that hex suits you and almost makes me want to go to the shed and fix my puncture.... Looks like it rides really well with that longer stem too!

That's what I do but I have a bit more of a variety of food in that I also go Burger King and KFC, gotta get those noms.

The preload bolt should only really be under very slight pressure, I would check the crank pinch bolts are torqued up correctly as they are what should stop the crank from coming off. With that being said as aener pointed out a trialtech top cap bolt is the same thread and has a lot more material. I believe it is M18 x 1.0 thread.

I would also avoid using those conical washers if possible. They like to deform quite easily and in turn can cause the caliper bolt to loosen.

Lockdown so I don't have to go see anyone, can just stay home and get merry

That would be f**king rapid, good luck! Ours took about 13 weeks all in, seller already had a property lined up and was ready to go, we were first time buyers with good deposit and mortgage in principle and still took longer than it needed to. The searches held us up massively and then the bank wanted me to prove where the deposit had come from (I had sent proof including statements dates and exact amounts), they pretty much wanted the history of each note up to the date it was made. Then the seller, who wanted and needed a quick sale, couldn't get their solicitor to send documents across to prove the single story extension was built properly. It was a far more tedious process than it needed to be and I do not want to do it again. Solicitors are c**ts that don't communicate with each other, ours "seemed" good but I can only go off what they told me was going on.

I see your tiling job and raise you this pile of disappointment. Not only is the cooker hood offset from the hob, it doesn't cover the hole behind it at the top and for a bonus that gap on the right is a filter for the boiler that you can not clean as it's been tiled around. (Boiler is in the cupboard on the right because who doesn't want to use kitchen space for something that could have fit under the stairs.)

It is not, just had some questionable owners/tradesmen.

I've recently just purchased a house, also had no issues with tripping switches or flickering lights, while messing with other stuff and running network cable etc. I have found some scary shit including: 6mm cooker cable live and not attached to anything behind the cupboards The kitchen was just a spur off the ring main A socket in the kitchen was wired with 1mm 4 core lighting wire with the extra core just bent over Spurs on spurs on spurs in most bedrooms (the record was 6 double sockets on a spur in a small bedroom) Loose connections in sockets/switches and even in connectors under the floorboards The most annoying thing that I have found so far I only spotted the other day when moving some stuff that had been dumped in the spare room, how the f**k you can fit a radiator like that and thing "that will do" is beyond me, It has also been attached to the wall with M5x1.0 bolts, I have no idea how that is still on, I only know what bolts are used as one is at 45 degrees and only half in. Some people should not be allowed to do any kind of DIY. All the dangerous fire starting shit that has been found has been fixed and we are now finally able to decorate the living room, I think we have gone for a similar colour to Ali as it fits in with some built in furniture that's in there. VID-20211111-WA0007.mp4

I don't think you will be able to find a freewheel smaller than 16t that will fit on the rear of your Flow unfortunately, there may be a 15t BMX freewheel that will fit however they are usually not up to the punishment trials puts on them and I wouldn't recommend using one. The other option would be to put a larger sprocket on the cranks, however I am not sure if you would have the clearance for this. Unless you want to spend a fair bit of money on a hope hub or something equivalent to be able to put splined sprockets on the bikes are pretty set in the gearing they come with.

Jesus, I knew it was mental at the moment from looking myself but 60k over asking is insane! We have just managed to have an offer accepted on a house at 2.5k over asking, still got a long way to go until completion, just hoping nothing goes wrong, awaiting results of survey and mortgage application. Missed out on the first house we wanted as we didn't realise about the best and final offers, the estate agent just asked if that was all we were offering and seemed like he just wanted more money.

I heard he gapped his way there.

Find his strava and get everyone to report him for being on an E-bike, might get his KOM's removed Also with that much overlap on your house there is no rush to move everything in a day at least, get in, decorate then move shit to where it needs to be. We are currently looking, problem we have is any that come on the market that are any good get sold before you can even get in touch with estate agent, the place we are renting at the moment is quite good so we are not in a rush as such, just keen to get our own place.

With the tyres not being tubeless they tend to leak through the sidewall to start with that's why its important to ride them and get the sealant spread around so it can seal the tyre carcass (if you use a spray bottle with water in on the sidewall you will probably see small bubbles). I found with the inserts it can make it more difficult for the sealant to get around the tyre but once everything is up and running they are invaluable in protecting your rim from damage. I had an issue of my tubeless deflating on my spank rims, after putting pressure in them a few days and riding them they sorted themselves out and sealed like a champ. On a side note I would try and avoid putting much over 80psi even for a short time, the tyres are only rated to 60psi from memory (it has it written on the sidewall), much higher and you risk ruining the tyre. Good luck!

The stock issues people are having are unrelated to any issues with the hubs, Hope (and most other suppliers) are just insanely busy at the moment and it is taking ages for shops to get stock.

That doesn't look like the insert has been set in far enough, it looks almost flush with the face, the crank face should be a little bit proud of where the insert is or the pedal can tighten up against the insert and that can cause you issues. If you run a steel pedal washer it should reduce the chance of any problems.

I have found that the newer TR brakes feel a little spongy just because they now use a 13mm piston. As for a water bleed I am not sure how well they handle it, should certainly work short term.

That was a good video, was not expecting to enjoy it with it being themed, nice work!

On new brakes it's excess fluid from the bleeding procedure. If it's a small amount of fluid and it doesn't mess with the brake I would just wipe it off and carry on using it and see if it stops.

If it is just out of the small hole in the cap then it is normal for all brakes, it's just excess fluid that is on top of the diaphragm. Any pictures or videos of the leak?

Mine were like this when I first fitted them, real pain in the ass, they seem to settle in over time. Had mine out since to change tyres and they were a breeze to fit.

I've seen a few frames where the disc mount is part of the dropout, they still needed facing the majority of the time. I do agree that if a caliper has shifted it will be down to not enough torque and to be fair I can't remember the last time I have had to adjust a caliper mid ride and I do not check any bolts on my bike. Either way it is good to see something a bit different

Not seen it in person but I personally hate disc mounts in locations like this, if/when they are on the wonk it makes getting a facing tool almost impossible to get in. Also if you are on a ride and need to adjust/tighten your caliper bolts you are going to have a job fitting a multitool in there.

Do not do this to any trials rim, it will end in tears, bits of flying tyre and aluminium, possibly even death and maybe a small fire. You should be able to seat the tyre properly by putting a small amount of air in it and going round by and and forcing the tyre into place, with it being a single wall rim if it is not seated properly it will fly off. Beads can stretch a bit over time especially if they have come off a rim a few times or been put on/off with tyre levers. Try reseating it by hand and then pumping it up and see how you get on. Adding a few psi to your normal pressure can sometimes help a bit too. If all that fails it might be new tyre time unfortunately. Good luck!