Mark W

From www.onza.com. Not updated in 3 years. Some kind of record? EDIT: Just read "blue and silver" - used to have that one, it's in my garage, might get pics in morning if I've got time?

You've got to use the bolt on the slave cylinder too. That's the one down at the bottom, which has got the excess bolt on it (not two hoses coming out of it, if you get me). I can't think of how to explain it clearly 'cos I've not bled a Magura in 2 years (mine have just stayed rock solid (N)\), so if you try and swing by Magura.de there should be a pictorial guide on there somewhere. Also, try checking out the FAQ section - there's a Magura section in there with info and might have the link for the online manual. Mark. PS. From what I can remember - syringe with new fluid goes into bottom hole, then a pipe going out into a little pot at the lever side of things. Pump the fluid through, tapping the hose along it's length as you do so to un-seat the air bubbles. Keep repeating this until you see new, non-skanky fluid coming out, with no air bubbles in. Then, simply do the bolts up.

Good point. Just a bit concerned about hidden damage to second hand forks? Forks snapping is always shitty, so if they're second hand you just don't know what's happened to them in the past? Thanks anyway though (N) Mark.

Yeah, the Team's are sorta tempting, I just don't know if I've got the money really. I'm spending £70 on an Eno as it is, so that means my wages are just under half spent anyway, and I'm 'saving for uni'. Might just got for the '05 T-Pro forks, I guess...

Hey ho y'all, I'm out on the prowl for some new forks. My T-Pro's have been going strong for 2 or 3 years, but I feel the need to change them just for peace of mind. Something's feeling funny upfront, so I wanna nip it in the bud seeing as it'd be, overall, the 4th set of forks I'd have snapped (all 4 at the steerer just below my stem). I'm a freakin' pauper, so I've been looking for some forks at the cheaper end of the spectrum. I noticed the £31.99 Monty forks, but are they any good? I don't need disc mounts, just 4-bolt Maguras, so are these X-Alp forks any good? Also, are the 20" Lite Guys from Onza as snap happy as their 26" counterparts? Thanks for any help, Mark.

Are you planning on putting another one of these one? I can see it's been a whore to organise, but I can't make it to this one, but I'd love to go to another one?

*silence* *silence* "Bollocks!" *tap tap tap, shake shake shake* *silence* *silence* "Bollocks!" *tap tap tap, shake shake shake* *silence* "The Beatles."

Yeah, I've only got standard drill bits unfortunately, and I don't really want to have to buy anything new to do it, seeing as it's a kinda half-assed whim (N) Note how I managed to play off the fact that I didn't know a hole saw was just a drill bit? :">

To be fair, I'd be filing the holes smooth anyway, so even if it required more work I've got 9:30-5:30 free on the weekend in the bikeshop (N) Thanks again for your help (N)

Cheers for the diagram (N) I've only got a drill here, no hole saw, so I'm guessing I'll need to keep it small. This kinda negates the point of doing the drilling though (not big enough to really make much of a weight difference, but big enough to affect rim strength?), so I dunno... Thanks anyway, Mark.

In my lifetime, apart from men's arses I've not had to drill much, so is there any specific drill bit I need or are they mostly all-purpose? Thanks for all the info so far (N)

Well, I was supposed to be buying a Ronnie drilled rim from JTM, but it turned out I was the mong this time 'cos it was the wrong spoke hole drillage for my rear hub (32 rim, 36 hub). Anyway, I wanna drill my rim (as many do), and I'm a bit lost as to where to start. What sort of bits am I best off using? What size (for a DX-32 rear and whatever the hell the Alex DX front rim it is) is best? Do I need to disassemble the rear wheel to do it? If anyone's got any hints, tips (I'd settle for tits), that'd be great. Mark.

I swear by my Hebo Trial Team gloves. They kick ass. Really, properly nice gloves. Seem to be really, really well made, ultra comfortable, nice and thin so you get a good feel from them, and look OK-ish too. £21 from www.bvm-moto.co.uk + = Seamless palms and fingers, lycra-ish spandex stuff between bottom of glove and top (to stop tearing the seams which are usually there), thin, durable - = possibly looks?

I dunno, they're pretty thick though. I'm getting all noob here, but from what I can tell they're pretty beefy.

I've found them to be pretty nice, all told. They can be a bit fiddly to get off/on, but I only take 'em off when something new's going on there. Note: Not Tart Approved™ (Y) Mark.

Wouldn't that make it a bit sketchy for running an ACS Claw or something though if you can only run a "short" BB? I've got a 127.5mm wide spindle on mine, so is that the same as your's or not? Is this copy made of a different material too? The Python was U6 and the copy was 7005, wasn't it?

Bitch :P You know I'm running any pads I can actually blag off people, anyway (Y) Nah, it's all worked for me and I don't see the need to change it. Steve gave me some of his pads and they fit in and stop me, so they're on, still running 4 year old forks, year old bar and stem, Magura which hasn't been bled for 2 years, 4 year old wheelset, 3 year old cranks... Might have to get some new stuff soon though (Y) My year old freewheel's gettin' replaced soon either way. Mark.

Shit, reading this thread makes me think I should pay more attention to my rubber (Y) I've just got a Luna trials tyre out back with a standard 20x1.95-2.1 tube, and up front a Maxxis Max Daddy 1.85, with the same type of tube. Done me fine, really. Was riding in snow today on some wet, minging stuff and they held up fine as long as you don't jab the pedals like some kinda spaz... Anyway, when my Luna wears out (about a year left...), I think I'll definitely go for the Creepy Crawlies. Maxxis simply make amazing products, so I can't see there'd be anything wrong with them. Plus, I haven't heard anything bad about them, so there we go. Mark.

If you've got an alu frame, you can forget about a braze-on kit either way?

But you'd have nowhere to ride? It seems hard enough for organisers to get to use people's land, and that's hard enough with public liability insurance, properly organised comps so that the land-owners know they aren't going to have anything messed up/stolen/litter left about, and so on. So if you did it just as a huge group of riders, it might get complicated?

Trials is so young the only "trend" has been for longer wheelbases, but it's not really a trend, is it? Trials bikes have only been mass-produced for a relatively short space of time, so it's still all basically new development. Longer wheelbase bikes work well for a lot of riders, and it's helping people go bigger and so on. However, other riders prefer streetier stuff and want a more flickable bike, so they go for WB's nearer the 1000mm mark that the 1100mm mark. There's a lot of bikes around the 1050-60mm sorta point, and that seems to be the sorta average-ish size. It seems to have levelled off there. I know in a year I'll probably eat my words, but I can't *really* see these uber high BB, super long trials bikes taking off? But who knows...

There is no spoon. But yeah, I find that just before a move I'll think about pedal-strokes, or if it's a sidehop positioning, then I'll be either a) up on top of the object/have completed the move, or b) I'll be looking for an emergency exit...

It's from www.makepovertyhistory.org. Why do you need to be given a band to donate to charity though? Just seems like a way for people to go "Look, I've given money to a worthy cause. Yay." Superficial, almost? Meh, it's money to a good cause I suppose, but the whole "band" theme's getting hella old.

Yeah, but if we're going by what works on a roadie frame, we'd all have 21" seat-tubes (N) I quite like that idea of the brake mounts. Seems to work well on BMX's, so I don't see why it wouldn't on MTB's? The only problem could be that it's a bugger trying to sort out BMX brakes mounted on the underside of seatstays (especially those bloody chainstay mounted ones! Freaking chain...), so if you've gotta sort a 4-bolt mount out it might be a bit of a whore? I dunno, I guess that's why they do R&D :-