Mark W

I've always found it the other way for natural; when riding stocks you can roll sooooooo much more than on mods, so it just feels a lot easier and floatier to ride? I haven't really had much of a chance to ride street on stocks 'cos I just hate the feel of them. I always seem to catch the back tyre right in the nuts on stock just 'cos I don't really have to worry about that on my mod, unless something's gone tits up :S But yeah, stocks aren't necessarily harder to ride than mod; for a lot of natural stuff the bigger wheels roll far more easily, and for front touching you've got a greater margin for error again 'cos of the larger wheels. Seeing as you can also get super light, nice riding stocks now too there's less in the way of trouble from having to run generic MTB parts on it instead of trials specific, which has basically always been available on mod. In a comparison of them both, I'd go mod, just 'cos they're more fun to throw about. Stocks always feel like you have to plan what you're going to do more just 'cos they aren't as flickable, but you can just basically dick around on mods :( Mark.

It'd basically be the Echo SupaTrial tyre, but actually grippy, maybe?

Hmm. It's going at 7Kb/sec from Enaeoaigdjoadigf on 572kb/sec BB :(

Fair enough, it's just that they're not cheap in comparison to the main competition which is the Creepy Crawler. I've just gone from Luna to Creepy Crawler, and although there's nothing really wrong with the Lunas, the Crawlers are just better, basically. I'm glad I changed; the tyre just rides differently and feels better. The only problem is my damn slow puncture in my back tyre meaning that the tyre's too soft so it gets shitloads of rolling resistance 'cos it's almost too grippy for riding about at low pressures... Anyway, yeah... Mark.

Don't mean to burst your bubble, but from SuperCycles Creepy Crawlers are cheaper :("

The marshmallows, etc., are mainly just a binding agent to minimize Krispie division rates, to get all tech :( But yeah, Danny's idea's fine. Just don't burn the chocolate...

Bugger all, really. Kool's are theoretically pre-stretched, but I mean if you leave about 1mm outside of the nut it should be fine, really. Could even cut it flush with the bolt, if you want, seeing as you won't need much room either side, and the bolt should take it?

Make sure you remember to allow some room for chain stretch, otherwise you'll be pissed when it doesn't work. If you wanna get uber tech, you can file down the anchor plate, etc., and make it ultra tiny.

I guess stuff becomes normal/popular because it IS good. That means that people want to run good produce, so they'll all have roughly the same thing (hence the multitude of similar "Long, low, silver" frames. I guess my bike's pretty individual with the prototype forks on it, but otherwise the spec is basically a standard T-Pro (albeit 2001 standard T-Pro parts on a 2004 T-Pro Second Gen. frame), 'cept for the Pazzaz carbons and the new Azonic X-Pedals that'll be here tomorrow morning...

Is the wheel second-hand or brand new? Basically, if it's second hand, it could be that you have the Monty cams which are smaller than the Echo's. Echo are the only other after-market snail cam that are actually bigger than the Monty's, so it's either Echo's or chain-tugs (which I've never really had a problem with? If you buy some like the Primo Pro, because you'll most likely have to run your back wheel at about the same place in the drop-out for forever just 'cos of the chain tension relative to the brake placement, you can hacksaw off the rest of the thread and file it down so they're really nice, dinky and petite. Plus, if you're desperate, you could run it on the inside of the drop-out so the only thing you'd see outside of the frame would be the little end anchor plate?

Thing is is that the postage for the Hog's is about a fiver, which means that the total of it comes to only a few £££'s less than the X-Pedals (£49.98 w/free delivery), the DX's and so on... Thanks again for the additional replies. If the X-Pedals go to shit and I've got money, I might opt for the DX's, they look pretty fly. Thanks, Mark.

Cheers dude :- I knew someone was using them apart from Ali C. I actually ordered a pair in black last night, so thanks for the reassurance (Y)

Fishwog's got a pretty much just silver bike. Don't Monty make just silver rims? If you're desperate that is, seeing as X-Lite rims don't really seem to be...well...even half good... You can get silver Alex DX-32's, can't you? They aren't properly polished silver, but they are silver, if you get me? They have the big DX-32 stickers, but you should be able to take them off? I'll try and find a link to the Alex page and see if they are... Mark. EDIT - here we are: They're available from a unicycling site which was posted up on here not so long ago, at £23, without postage. They take a grind super well, and are pretty bombproof, so might be worth a look? Just found the link; you posted it up :">

Just looks like they're anodized differently or something :ermm: There might be a slight difference in rim profile, but it doesn't look to be much more than that (and that might be a trick of the light); same holes, same eyelets, etc...

Haha, your insistence on the matter in another thread on the forum made me do it Georgie :ermm: Stickied this one, and the one in NMC.

It's not so much the general amount of chain, more that the way the load is spread. If you're running a 22t front ring, you've got your Force divided by 11 teeth ('cos it only contacts the ring for half of it). With the smaller 16t chain rings it's F/8, which doesn't sound much, but imagine you're putting 1.4Kn of force through something (which is near the breaking point of a Kool), when you do 1400/11 it gives you 127.272N per tooth. However, at F/8 it's 175N per tooth. It's not a huge increase, but it IS still more than it was. This explains why chains are more likely to snap, and also the increased wear rate you'll experience. The above calculations aren't accurate to any real degree (apart from the final outcome of the sums, but the original values aren't), but they give you the idea. Mark.

JTM speaketh the truth. Theoretically, it'll increase chain-wear, especially if the chain-ring material is significantly harder than the chain? However, as JTM also said, chain's should take it. Saying that, I sheared a KMC Kool link literally in half doing a tiny little gap. Note: Replace chains before they get to that stage; mine was a year and a half old :ermm: Park's chain measurer device should be useful for that I guess... Anyway, yeah, not much help I guess but I haven't noticed the amount of faceplant vids go up so I'm guessing they're holding up.

Can you get 'em online? No Bikehut for 90 miles...

But surely it loses it's respect if everyone wears all the different ones 'cos they're fashionable & cool? I mean, it's good that there's all the money going in, but it's a bit shallow in a way. The Livestrong ones were good, but now there's all these other crappy ones it just seems a bit OTT.

When Sikamon was down here, he downloaded all the Jack Barnes & Friends videos from Trials-Shack. There's like 4 on there, from old stuff to new. Just search for Younevergetold's videos.

That wasn't the advice I gave in that thread, so you'd probably wanna take it up with whoever posted it originally (can't remember). I may or may not have unintentionally clicked Delete Topic instead of Delete Selected Posts when cutting out the crap from the last one. :ermm:"

Vertical dropouts and mech hangers should've given it away for a start, but there's a pic of it full built on the site - it's definitely a stock :ermm:

I don't know. The first ones just ran out of grip, and the second ones are just falling apart, basically... They're the Gusset "Prosecutors". It's the mag-bodied one. They're really, amazingly, properly shit. They felt in the dry like a pin-less V8 would in the wet, to give you an idea :- Did they have much abuse before that? Was it just a freak sort of thing or are they just simply not strong enough for trials? I don't really go to pedal too much, so I'd hope to keep 'em pretty safe... Which ones are these, out of curiosity? Did you get them from Wades or somewhere? The only problem I could see is that they've only got 8 fairly weedy looking pins on each side, and seem to have tiny bodies? Anyway, thanks for the help so far :- I think it's gonna either be the Hognesiums or the X-Pedals, at the moment...

'cos I haven't found any decent ones for £20? In the past 6 months I've had 2 pairs of DMR V8's, which came to £45-ish altogether, and before that I had some Gusset ones that cost £25, so yeah, all that together come to more than £50, which you can generally get decent pedals for... This thread is also concerning the Hognesium's, but there's another thread about them already so I thought there wasn't much point...

OK, just reposting this so that it can kinda keep on track. Basically, the help given so far: There was also So yeah, if it could just be about helping him with the moped he's going to get, that'd be good... Mark.