Mark W

Sure are, unless you've got a flip-flop (threads on both side) hub, and you're trying to put it on the micro-drive side, in which case it won't fit. Other than that, every screw-on sprocket will fit every mod hub or front freewheel crank :- Mark

Koxx - my neck salutes you.

I've checked a few, and the consensus seems to be a sorta front/band of rain moving up from the SW from tomorrow onwards, gradually raping us all, from what I can tell. It's supposed to be just light rain/showers by the time it gets to Knabb-ish area, so it might not be sooooooo bad. Saying that, drying rocks = greasy rocks = questionable grip. Ah well, got a new Creepy Crawler on the rear (Y)" Just drop a few PSI out and away we go :D ...assuming my frame gets here. C'mon, City-Link :P Mark

Dan Ko. Got your eye on some Viz parts or something? :-

That really is a total load of bollocks. Er, would that be the £3.50 for something pitiful like 50ml bottles? So could the fact that Magura can utterly rape you for the fluid be part of it? They sell it with oil in it because that brake is going to be used around the world. If they sold it wiht water in and someone in a cold country bought it, it'd freeze and they'd complain. If they sell it with oil it's a happy medium that will work for everyone. HOWEVER, in that we don't live in a super cold country, it's not so important for us. My brake's frozen 3 or 4 times, twice so much so it made the pads touch the rim. However, no damage was done to the rim because as the water expanded, it simply pushed the pads out a little, meaning there was no harm done. So, in that case, should we have a poll for people who've had Magura blood in and had it leak? That's right - people with mineral oil can have leaky brakes too. Hot poop! Either way, I've never had a leak with my Magura (touch wood this weekend (Y)). The only time it's ever had the fluid come out was when I got sold a Magura with a hole in the tubing. That, and when I bleed it. Er, how would they actually know you'd bled it with water and that, for example, you hadn't used water to clean out the brake to get rid of any oil so when you posted it to them they didn't get an envelope full of crap? Assuming they could actually know that there'd been water in there anyway :) Seriously, I ran Magura blood for...hmm...a year and a half (or so). No need to bleed it at all apart from when I put the hose on initially. It worked. However, now I've got water, it still works, but it feels and works a shitload better. You can't argue with the physics and viscosities of liquids - water will ALWAYS have a 'lighter' lever feel to a comparably set up Magura with oil in it. People generally prefer 'lighter', less stodgier lever feels, so why shouldn't people run it? Magura also say you should use the black pads as standard, seeing as that's what the brake comes with. What are you running at the moment? Equally, I'm pretty sure most rim manufacturers initially didn't intend for you to grind your rims? Or drill them, if they weren't pre-drilled? D'you get the point yet? Anyway, in answer to the initial question - go for it. Just make sure you thoroughly flush out the system :- Mark

It's really a case of swings and roundabouts. Seems like most people on here love longer and lower bikes, but I way prefer higher front ends, and not being so stretched out. It's just down to personal feel, really. Although a lot of people here think longer's the way to go, the wb of the majority of the top 20 riders in the world says otherwise :- Mark

How nice. I manage to sort it out so I can get my replacement frame in time for the comp, and then it turns out it's going to be absolutely pissing it down. Yay for fate :-

What mech hanger is it? Onza have got some random strangely burly mech hanger ( this ) on their site (but no new pics of proto mods :S), if your's is that shape?

That made me giggle :S Just imagine their football team :S There's some other random video I got by Gerardo a while back that's just incredible. Silly high sidehops, but seemingly putting no effort in. I'm guessing it's a Spanish thing* - think Benito, etc... *Or a "Being good" thing.

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Yeah, he'd been riding for two years a few years ago (some random thing like that anyway), but he'd done a lot of mototrials beforehand, I think... 18 over this end, as of 29th December.

Holy f**king harsh gap and sidehop stacks, batman! That video's really good. Just kinda goes really well. Even though a lot of footage is sorta reused, it doesn't get old, which is nice :S Thanks for the link... Mark

Comments

Whoa whoa whoa - Martin's riding the YMSA's? Recently? Hope so (Y) I'd love to catch up with him again. Last time we rode was super cool, just had a bit of a tour of Aberystwyth. Savagely smooth rider...

Just out of curiosity, is that my old ZOO! stem? If so, glad it's working out OK :S I couldn't deal with that at all, it just felt plain wrong. Can't really see my bar height dropping below 37-38" in the near future. If anyone wants to try out the high bar and stem/long crank approach, just heckle me at the YMSA comp on the weekend and you can try it out - not that you'd want to :D Mark

1. Take out lever. 2. Take off the peripheral crap (like the piston that presses into the cylinder. 3. Using an allen key/screw-driver, press out the metal sleeve that goes lines the hole that the lever bolt goes through. 4. Take out all the crap that will now fall out. You'll need to wedge a screw-driver blade under the red TPA cap to force it off. 5. Where you see where the TPA head had been, you'll find a sheared bolt. You need to take this out of the square block that the red TPA bit was sitting around. Keep the block. 6. Use a new M5 bolt to go into the square block, then reassemble the lever as you took it apart, not forgetting the metal sleeve. It really is that simple. If you've got any heinous problems PM me or something...

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Got 0.16. Are you holding down the stop button before the background changes? So you jsut have to let go of the mouse button?

160, I believe? Or the 158-160mm mark anyway, 'cos the last pair of Musclemans I had said "160" on the side... Tic - what I meant is that with the 18:12 gearing, I've still got that much power available to me. However, if I had 18:13 gearing, there wouldn't be the same power... to think of it another way, you can go faster in 5th gear than you can in 1st, yeah? Basically, I'm keeping it in fifth, but with the longer cranks, it feels like first (Y) So you get shitloads of power, with a bit extra, if you see what I mean?

I've said it before and I'll say it again - the Pazzaz risers with the T-Master (same difference as the Echo Team stem, aren't they?) sex me up. It's just an awesome set up. It's a bit higher than the ZOO! ones, but I've found that I can up higher than when I had my ZOO! stem, can tap higher than when I had the ZOO! stem, can gap further, sidehop higher, and can actually bunnyhop and manual now. Plus spinning's about |<- this ->| much easier. It's just a hugely nicer feel to the bike, as everyone who's ridden my bike will testify. I know it's not cool to want a higher bar height or a shorter wheelbase, but I've found both have worked super well for me. Anyway, that aside, the shape and feel of the Pazzaz risers is brilliant. They just feel 'right', from the first time I put them on my bike to the last ride I had on them yesterday. They're perfect, really... Ooh, and you've gotta dig the carbony bits (Y)

Well... Try keeping the front end higher. If you think of ice skatery type people, when they're spinning they keep their legs close to their body. If you sit on a swivel chair, and spin yourself, if you keep your legs out straight then bring them closer to you, your spin rate will increase. The same is true of riding. It looks like your front end's just too low, so you're losing the momentum of the spin from that. Also, you need to twist your upper body around more, and spot the landing. Keep looking over your shoulder and trying to place the bike down. The first few times you do this you'll probably end up stalling on the backwheel at about the 270° mark, looking over your shoulder, looking like a tit. After this, it's just a matter of putting more effort in. Try snapping your hips around more when you do the initial spin, so you end up landing just past the 180 mark so you're more likely to be able to keep the movement going. Keep yourself "lighter" - try not landing too heavily on the back wheel... I'll try and get a vid of me doing it tonight to give you an idea of what I mean (Y) Mark

Short of you putting the outer shell back on inside out or melting the whole thing, very little. You can't get the springs and pawls out without a major fight (So they won't fly out (Y)), and you can't really spill bearings everywhere 'cos they're sealed up snug as a bug in a rug. It'll be cool :)

You want longer cranks :) All the power of 18:12, but it's easier to get to with more leverage. So you've still got the power of 18:12 without limiting yourself to 18:13 ;) I've got the 175mm version Tensiles on my T-Pro and it really sexes me up. Power moves are about a katrillion times easier, and everything else is just dandy. Mark