Mark W

Hmm... I'm sorta going off the Konigs now (Y) When I first put them on, I noticed the spongey feel of them. I thought it must've been the brake, but with the Koxx greens on it felt nicely solid. Soon as the Konigs were on, it sorta went soft. That's 8mm of soft-ish pad material I guess. But yeah, I was willing to try nad learn to like the amount of sponginess due to the awesome bite and hold. Unfortunately, that seems to be going now too :) It still sorta locks and stuff, but no better than the Koxx greens. At first they were super, but now they're just... hmm. I'll give them a proper ride tomorrow, but it's not looking super promising from my point of view about what I'm looking for from my back brake.

Haven't heard that sorta story line before in those sorta films? :) Cheers for the review though (Y)

You do jsut mean 'til tomorrow at 6am, yeah? (Y) Or am I reading into that a bit too much?

It's just what everyone calls him, what with it being a bit easier to shout out that "Shrewsbury!" :D Getting it now though. If Gav's one was anything to go by it should be pretty foxy (Y)

Worst timing ever for those backwheeling pics (Y) That one of "Abe" doing one's a bit odd though, the way his one leg's super blurry and the other isn't... Nice pics though.

Skate shoes with padded ankley bits work OK if you do the laces up pretty tight :) I hate rolling my ankles, so all my shoes are really tight (as in, I actually use the laces to tighten my shoe, not run them super flappy or anything). I don't really see why people can't just use a decent pair of BMX shoes to ride trials in. I'm currently wearing my Orchid "Teems". Super comfy, super grippy (really good sole on them, both pattern wise and also material - they've got that "gum" sole thing going on), and you can actually wear them for more than just trials in without looking like a tit ;)

Sort of. You can exchange "a mate" for two screwdrivers, just putting one behind each pad and the cylinder body itself, so you pull the piston out more so you can get a larger volume into the system :) Can also do it another way that I can't fully remember how it works... but it has something to do with the lever being squeezed in at the end of the bleeding process, you doing the lever bolt up, then attaching the bleed tube + a full syringe to the slave, and letting the lever out so it sucks in an excess amount of water from the syringe. You've gotta do other stuff to for that to work though, but I can't remember what the hell I did :) The screwdrivers way works best ;) Mark

With the pad spacing, what you can do is the "Overfill" bleed, which'll mean you have more fluid in the system so the pads will sit further out from the cylinders. With regards the headset top cap: check out the top cup relative to the frame. If it's got a gap larger on one side than another, get it pressed in properly with a real headset press. Otherwise, make sure the bearings are seated correctly and so on...

I think it'd be fair to say it was the cunting great hole around the edge of the weld for the bash mount :)

Yeah, I'm gonna have to agree about the Konigs. I can't really comment on wear rate yet, but they've got amazing lock. Everyone else's white pads I've tried have worked super well too :) Simon's wore out pretty fast on the front, but he was doing stoppies and dragging his brake down long hills to a) piss people off with the noise and b) see how fast they would wear... Maybe they only worked after a deep grind 'cos your rim was contaminated?

Have you gone savagely to bash on it or anything? :) EDIT: And for the future, if you actually want to claim on warranty it's a hell of a good idea NOT to keep riding the frame, 'cos any fault'll get bigger, and if your downtubes moon-surface-like it'll make it look less like abuse-related and more like manufacturing related...

Er, free bearings on warranty? That isn't going to happen? That'd be like claiming your tyres had worn down :) Anyway, I got my set from Supercycles when my top bearings died. Sent the new pair out straight away, boshed 'em in, they bedded in and now we're sorted. I tried getting the bearings from Wiggle, but they were being faggots about my Electron card, to put it mildly... But yeah, it's the ZS2 1 1/8" bearings you're after. They're a pretty irregular shape, so I'd doubt your lbs would have any in, really.

They just always seem to get in the way of everything. I don't really like the look of them on there either, and I just seem to hit myself against them pretty frequently...

They probably "wore down in one ride" in the same way that Pete said he "rode a demo at bike05", which turned out to be "stood on fatmike's echo behind the stands". I've got about 2 pairs of Plaz CRM's here sans backings just 'cos of the tripe glue they use... Saying that, the pair I've got on the front are going the distance (hopefully, touch wood (Y)). They'll be having their second birthday soon (Y) Mark

Probably just need to re-bleed and tighten. If that doesn't work, just try boshing some plumbers tape (PTFE tape) in there, and that might sort it. Alternatively, claim on the Magura leak-proof warranty :)

|Gentle breeze|<|Silent Clutch freehub|<|ACS Fat freewheel clicking|<|Profile clicking|<|X-Hydras with tar|<|Angry geese|<|Chav slags on the piss|<|Jet engine taking off over-head|<|Konigs| If you prefer :)

Looking back, Bill realised his "Big Head" shark penis extension might have been a little over the top.

Konigs? To use the patent-pending Mark Visual Aid Relation Graph Chart: |Gentle breeze|-----|Silent Clutch freehub|-------------|ACS Fat freewheel clicking|------|Profile clicking|---------------------------|X-Hydras with tar|---------------------|Angry geese|---------------|Chav slags on the piss|------------------------------------------------|Jet engine taking off over-head|----------|Konigs|

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Excuse the cuss, but that is f**king silly :)

I've got a technique question for y'all: I ride mini-ramp mostly, 'cos I find it's most fun for me. I hate the sound and feel of pegs though, and so I'm riding pegless. So far, I've got pegless smiths, and alley-oop 270 to opposite smiths. However, I'm just stuck with what else to do. I've seen Mike Aitken do some nuts peg-less icepick on a big subwall, but what sorta pegless stuff is there to do on mini-ramp, or should I just get over my hatred of pegs and put them back on?

In the short space of time between me getting my replacement T-Pro and me having to send it back, I managed to use the Heatsinks for about 3 hours of riding. Shit me, they're a bit good. I've got Plaz on the front and Konigs on the back, and there's a quite large difference between the feel of the two pads. The CRM's kinda hold, but don't have a LOT of initial grab, but the Konigs just grip and hold. It feels like you've got an inch of tar on there, but without any tar on (and they don't stick to the rim :)). Really nice. Again, can't comment on wear. However, the moulding means a better quality pad and fit. The Koxx Bloxx I got had rough edges around the 'face' of the pad from where they'd been cut. The Konigs are a lot higher quality...

You can get 'em cheaper than £80 from a fair few places. I know of quite a few around the £70 mark, and then one or two around £60-65...

Auto-Mod Please use the bike pic thread, all the info you need is in the first post.