Mark W

Why's that? I just meant it 6ft = 180cm... or have I just heinously confused myself? Anyway, I just specifically set out to gap better, and refined my technique more so I properly launch it. Got a lot more distance and confidence with it now (N)

Not really the same comparison. The edge of the tube nearest the weld is going to be the weak point on the tubing, so it's going to break around there. It's more unlikely you'll actually 'tear' the material. For example, on almost all the frames I've broken they've broken by the weld - it's just because the weld is a fairly stiff point, so the join between the stiffer point and the more flexible one is going to take all the force. If you use it, it's going to fatigue the metal, so it's going to break at the weakest point, which would be around there.

Er, yeah, but one day's use doesn't mean shit to do with wear rate: Etc. But yeah, there seem to be some people they last for a while for, and some that they don't.

Er, JT - look at UrbanPoet's #4...

It wouldn't have taken 8 months for a faulty weld to break though? Isn't that more just like it's been ridden, so it's died (a la all frames)?

180cm.

Women Getting You Down? Bat For The Other Team!™

Yeah, but he would, wouldn't he? (N) Think about who he's sponsored by, etc... With that sort of sole though, aren't they basically a skate shoe, but gayed up to the max?

That's what he wants to know, which is what I was getting at...

You can't really review a product after less than one days use? :P

If you're operating a strict "Cracked once - won't buy it" policy, you might want to try a different sport...

However long the gap you're trying to do is? There's no "good" distance to gap. Some people can do it further than others in the same way as some people can do ____ better than other people 'cos they spend more time practising it?

Stone cutting discs give a better grind, apparently?

My bad, yeah - T-Mag's are £290 new. Didn't realise :"> So yeah, that'll probably be around a T-Pro's-worth, I guess, probably with £20-ish on top for the excess amount and postage... "Bills to pay" - coming from Mr. "King hubs front and rear" :P

Whiskey or Vodka = MarkFuel

Just remember though that that'd still be approx. £160 you'd be paying for the T-Lite, I suppose... This is again assuming you get in the region of £100 as half-price thing from the T-Mag, so don't take it as 100% accurate!

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....s&highlite=Ribo

It's someone who works at Supercycles who replies to e-mails, so it's unlikely you'll get a reply at 20 past 10 on a Sunday evening, so they're not being intentionally rude or anything... You may not be able to get a T-Pro frame just yet, as there's some sorta issue with the BB shell on the new batch or something. I needed a replacement, and I had to get the T-Lite Long or the T-Mag because they didn't have any T-Pro frames spare that had working BB shells. Don't take that as gospel though as the situation may have changed. Try e-mailling info@supercycles.co.uk though, as you're more likely to get a response from that.

Well, technically you *should* be allowed half the price of the T-Mag frame off a frame of your choice if they're willing to half-price the Mag, so...er...I guess that's near enough £100, so you'd probably have to pay around £60 yourself, or £70 to inc. postage...

Er, I'm guessing phoning them, and sorting out the postage cost then would be easier. According to the warranty, the customer is liable for all postage costs (checking it 'cos I bent my FallGuys :P), just so you know in advance...

What's that all about? :P

Echo bashring? Coust UCI Bashring? Try-All bashring? Should be able to fit them + the freewheel. What cranks are you using? If they're square taper (reading the thread, they are :">), then it probably means you've tightened the cranks on too far, and have basically stretched the tapers out so the cranks sit further in on the spindle. This'll have the effect of meaning you can't get a freewheel on easily - the same problem I had with my old Musclemans. If you just had a new right-side crank arm even you could just use that, only do it to 35ft/lbs of torque, and that should do it fine with a bashring + freewheel (although you could try grinding the remover tabs off your's). Yeah, my ACS Fat keeps eating it's internal spacers. I don't really know how well they'd last for rear freewheel, to be honest. The internals are pretty tiny, so I don't know how well they're take the load... I believe there's either a thread in the FAQ, or in the Trials Chat section 'cos it comes up quite frequently :deej:

I'd go for the KHE Collapse is anything, as it's apparently stronger than the Kool (plus they look cool as f**k (N)). If you didn't keep the Claws tight, it's understandable. Other than that though, if you're breaking tools it'd suggest you weren't using them super well (I don't mean that in a "You knob head!" way :-), which probably leads to chains that aren't joined properly, meaning they're more likely to die. Do you preload much before doing moves? If you do, it generally increases the life of your drive train as the pressure is applied in a much smoother way, not just explosions of power repeatedly, which will lead to the freewheels/chains dying. If you've got the cash, try getting the Eno freewheel (or if you've got 3x THAT amount of cash, get a Profile :deej:). They're pretty damn burly so you'd probably get along with it better :P Plus they're a doddle to maintain 'cos they barely ever come undone and even when they do they don't explode a la Claws... Mark

Why not e-mail Koxx? Not the .co.uk place but the .fr one, seeing as they're based right next to it, aren't they?

Nope, this is about his 4th or 5th new account because he invariably reverts back to being a dickhead and gets his accounts banned :-