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Everything posted by Mark W
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Building wheel. Why won't the spoke go fully into the hub hole?
Mark W replied to Mr_Orange's topic in Beginners Trials Chat
On lightweight trials hubs having 2- or 3-cross can sometimes be a good idea for your bearings too. I've seen in the past that radially laced wheels can pull the hub shell outwards, meaning bearings become quite a loose fit. You can get around it by re-fitting the bearings with Stud & Bearing Fit, but going for a crossed pattern would be best long term. You're also less likely to have the spokes rip through the flange as well - again, something I've seen on some of the lighter hubs out there. -
Cheers dude - I'll have a look into it. I suspect it's because Issuu is balls, but maybe there's some way of making it work... EDIT: Yep, Issuu just being balls. There doesn't seem to be a way around it unless I make that iframe small enough to work for mobile. I've added a link out to the page itself on Issuu. Sorry for the hassle, but thanks for flagging it for me
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2 years later, an update with Ben.
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Apparently, yes: www.cleanzine.co.uk
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Following on from the video, a couple of photos: https://issuu.com/inspiredbicycles/docs/ben_travis__3_days_in_london
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An enjoyable mix of lines/styles/moves in there Some really nice shades of Simone Barraco too. Good to see the "Helper Block" get a new lease of life with the fakie roll down.
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Haha, as long as you don't slip with the drill and take out the pins at either side of the rim you'll be reet In terms of wheel build strength, it won't really make any difference how it's laced over the valve hole/join - it's just more of a pain in the arse to get your pump on the valve. Quite a few trials bike companies who do pre-built bikes like the Varials tend to have fairly freestyle lacing, so it's not too surprising. It's not an intentional thing on their part though - there's no performance advantage from it. As some other random stuff you could try to help out - using some electrical tape to either make the valve stem a bit of a tighter fit through the valve hole, or even just using it to help keep your rim tape held in place more securely to keep the tube guided properly through the hole could help. Similarly, putting some talcum powder or similar inside the tyre to stop the tube sticking to the tyre should help keep it in place better too as it won't get smooshed around (technical term) as the tyre slightly moves on the rim.
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On most single wall rims these days the valve hole is drilled through the rim join. This means that where you'd ordinarily be drilling just the valve hole opposite the join you can drill out a bigger hole to save more weight.
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Back in September, Ben and I headed to London for a few days before the TartyBikes Weekender. When that got cancelled, we booked an extra night at the World Girl Guide and Scouts Centre in London (no joke) and spent 3 days exploring all over the city. We put in around 50 miles over the 3 days we were there which was definitely a cardio tester, but Ben still managed to fire out some awesome lines in spite of it. This trip was a lot of fun, and being with someone who's happy to cruise around and explore was a treat. Thanks for making it happen dude!
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f**k me I f**king hate the Facebook Shop feature/product. Every cunt involved in making it needs to get in the f**king sea.
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110+ cars at Cadwell does not sound primo. Did they offer partial refunds or anything or is it the usual track day organiser thing of "whatevz, not our fault"?
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His Instagram post before made it sound like that was the case. Seems that they were booked in for the Harrogate Cycle Expo a while back and that took precedence over the Berlin round.
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He's said on Facebook/Instagram that they're the same compound as the Yellow pads, so performance should be at least as good. The surface of the pads is a little nicer now they're injection moulded, and the new moulding shape seems like it should be supported by the pad backing better too.
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Unfortunately in the places I've been looking the 70D is more than double the price of the 60D so it's a bit much for me at the moment unfortunately. Thanks for the comments from both of you though. It's confirmed what I thought before, so looks like the 60D is going to be the one. Might head into the shop in town and see what they've got in as they sometimes have some decent deals on second hand bodies - gives me a chance to get a feel of the 60D in any case.
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Piston movement will be effected by the amount of adjustment you have dialled in on the TPA (the bite point adjuster). If you have the TPA screwed in quite far then typically one piston will either stick out more than the other in general, or they will move un-evenly. The way to solve this is to wind the adjuster out, then move the cylinders in to suit. Once the adjuster is wound out, you can also tell easily if the brake has any air in it. If you put a very small amount of pressure on the lever, it should move the brake pads straight away. If it doesn't then you will have air in the system.
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Really like that type of riding! Like Ben said, had a cool Reed vibe to it, probably down to the punk and fish eye combo. Great line choices and spot usage
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Dudes. I'm thinking of upgrading one of my camera bodies so I've got something a bit handier for shooting photos with, whilst also being able to use it for filming. Not looking to spend loads at the mo so it's second hand. I've basically narrowed it down to the 7D or the 60D. I've shot with a 7D for TartyBikes a lot so I'm familiar with it and it seems like a good camera, but there are certain plus points of the 60D that are tempting me. For a start, the fold out LCD is a major win for me as I'm going to be primarily filming so ching ching. Secondly, I've got a bunch of good quality SDHC cards now so I have plenty of coverage as far as that goes. However, I'm potentially going to be doing more 'normal' photography - do any of you guys have much experience between the two, and know if there's a particular big difference between them performance-wise? If anyone's got any tips that'd be cool, please. I've read a few reviews online but I don't trust the outside world of the internet as much as I do our cosy little corner here
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We had a 5 parcel shipment come through them from Belgium. One of their warehouse guys went rogue and re-labelled all 5 of our parcels, along with a lot of other peoples, so our stuff got sent all around the place and we ended up receiving some properly random shit. Great company
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Who was transporting/delivering it?
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Was just going from the bit at the 3:30 mark where it seems like you get to a dead end, then go "There must be some different stairs" or something along those lines. What shoot were you on?
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He's posted up stuff about his physio sorting out his knee injury, so I assume it's just a tendon band. When I had patellar tendonitis I looked at a few things that were similar to that.
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Speaking as someone who had a 203mm BB7 on the front of a mod, no
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I know you've bought into the whole clickbait YouTube title idea, but making people watch 3 minutes of you climbing the wrong stairs with the pay-off being some backhops on a concrete block isn't a great way to retain viewers who might have been enticed by the promise of "MTB STREET TRIAL". There are plenty of London rooftop spots where you could show what you're actually capable of on a bike - I get you wanted to show somewhere high for the drama factor, but seeing as you were in London for a few days from the sounds of things you could probably have made a bit more of your time if you were there primarily to get clips for your vlogs/other videos? You can probably allow your clips to speak for themselves a bit more too. As an example, you don't really need to put a 10sec long caption of "MAD VIEWS" before putting aforementioned "MAD VIEWS" clips on. If the footage is good enough you don't need to justify it, and if it isn't good enough then you need to work out why and try and rectify that for the future.
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Hope pads feel pretty average after you try pads from anyone else. The Trialtech/Jitsie/Clean pads with that copper-y looking backing plate are all the same pad, so whichever you choose from them is fine really. The only thing I'd really suggest is giving the specific MT7 pads a swerve as they seem to have more pad knock than going for the MT5 versions instead.