Mark W

It did, but he got done over by the powers that be: "Andretti’s hope was to catch a lucky caution and move to the front while the rest of the field had to pit. That caution came out when Ed Jones spun into the Turn 7 tires with 44 minutes to go. But instead of the pits being closed for an additional lap, they were opened early. As a result, Andretti remained in the rear of the field." Seems no-one knows why they opened the pits early when they ordinarily wouldn't have done. Good to know the rules in Indy get as randomly applied as they do in F1 I guess.

Wet track, slick tyres, no tyre warmers, jazz hands.

There wasn't a specific model of Zoot, it was/is all of them really. The mounts are relatively skinny, and they aren't braced or supported, so they just aren't particularly strong. Sticking with a 160mm or 180mm rotor will help get a bit more life out of them, as will trying to be a bit more sympathetic to them when you're riding - for example if you mess up a hop up to rear and hop backwards off the wall, don't just land on your back wheel with your brake locked on. That kind of thing puts a huge spike in load through the mount in a way that basically tries ripping it off the frame, so anything similar to that motion is worth avoiding where possible.

Nope, wasn't showing anything on my mobile when I was trying to get some info the other day, still nothing now.

Unfortunately this place is more biketrials than mototrials, so you may have more luck looking for a more dedicated motorbike-orientated site. There are possibly a couple of people on here who may be able to help though.

If he does become leader, milkshakes at the ready...

Just happened to watch this again - Tyre Jam Inception line is probably the best spot usage I've seen in a long, long time.

Had no idea about that either - just read the article about it on Wikipedia (for those interested: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lauda_Air_Flight_004#Lauda's_visit_with_BoeingWhat a dude. Slightly on a tangent, but it's interesting to note the parallels with Boeing refusing to accept blame in that instance, and with the 737 MAX crashes.

To be fair, I don't think they need to do much with the stability. Part of the reason the old onboards look so much more rah-rah than the new ones is that the new ones have so much stabilisation it takes away the 'feel' of what's going on. In other news, pretty shitty about Niki Lauda. Kind of appreciated his attitude at races compared to most of the corporate/PR people in F1 these days. His history too...

He'd be faster if he wasn't shuffling that wheel like a poooo-saaaaay. It does look remarkably tame in car though. I guess that 650+BHP will do the trick in terms of overall times though.

I can see how that little a gap would be a bit of a mind melter - when it's something as insignificant as that that could have been caused by/avoided by doing the tiniest of things differently it seems like it would be worse than being quite a bit off due to one major thing in a way. Still though, to be that close to a well established, lengthy-development car like that when you're just starting your own path is encouraging I bet that car won't have been half as fun either - screaming up through the gears onto the back not-quite-straight and seeing it slithering round: yes please.

Those guys always seem to nail the 'make it look fun and casual' thing in videos when you know it will have been absolutely nails to do a bunch of that stuff. Not even just the flip/barrel roll, but just the little random bits and pieces in it...

All aboard the progression train. Looks like your riding has levelled up again, which is kind of ridiculous as you weren't too shabby before. Love that song too. I knew I knew the song from the video name (checked it out after seeing it in a trailer ages ago) but couldn't remember what it was, then heard that opening piano line and it clicked.

Might be worth measuring where the hub is going to sit when you get your ideal gear ratio, then go from there? If it's going to end up sitting further back, having the hole bottom right might not be ideal. If you have to wind a lot of cam on then you'll have to run the cam with the larger section hanging on the underside of the dropout which makes it a little more prone to getting hit.

The more people the wheel hits when it flies off, the more points you get. Highest score wins. Some people have set the bar pretty high:

It took me quite a while for backhops to really click, too. I'd have a stab at them fairly often but not really 'practise' practise. In the end, one day it just clicked - I got a few in a row where my weight was too far backwards so I was having to move the bike quite a bit to correct it, and then the basic move fell into place. It took a while longer to learn to turn my good way, then longer to turn my bad way, but it's not always instant progression even though some vlogs may have you believe that. Vlogs, as with social media, need to be viewed with a little bit of skepticism, purely in the sense that it's still essentially an edited highlights and you're not seeing the full picture.

Yeah, exactly. Had been chatting to Cap about it and he thought the same, and I had a similar one on my 206 too.

Nic just spoke to them when she picked the car up - apparently when they drove it they were convinced it was wheel bearing, but then when they felt the wheels on the lift they felt fine. I'm not super convinced by that story, and certainly not enough to want to punt a grand at a gearbox in the hope of fixing it. It used to be much more sided than it is. It was super noticeable going round left hand corners, and is slightly to an extent now, but I think they're both on the way out so it's less specific.

Alright TF car peeps, got a question for you... Nic's Peugeot 208 has been making some classic wheel bearing noises for a while now (general 'whirring' type oscillating noise, it used to be louder when you turned left, but now it kind of gets louder either way you turn, oscillations depend on speed so it gets loudest between 50-55mph then quietens down above that) but she's decided to take it to the garage to get it sorted because it's kind of ridiculously loud now. The garage just called and said they think it might be the gearbox bearing, so want £1k to change the gearbox. I haven't had a car with a faulty gearbox bearing before but I have had one with a faulty wheel bearing, and this one sounds a lot like the wheel bearings did on mine when they shit the bed. Is there any simple way of ruling out one or the other? When we were driving it the other day, with the car out of gear at 50mph it was still rowdy as f**k whereas I would have assumed that the car would have needed to be in gear for it to make the noise if it was a gearbox bearing issue? If anyone's got any ideas I'm all ears/eyes/you get what I mean.

If you haven't got the budget to change your bike, the simplest way to look at it is A Bike > No Bike Although in the long run that bike won't allow you to do bigger/more advanced moves, you'll still be able to get the basics learned fine, improve your bike handling skills and develop your own style on it. It'll also transfer the skills over to your trail riding well too. The only thing to really be aware of is the potential for hitting your chainring and damaging stuff, so just be careful with that I guess - you can still learn a lot of other skills like front wheel moves without having anything to worry about Just be aware for hop ups that it's more susceptible to damage. In terms of age, you can do it at any age! The good thing about trials is there's lots of mini 'wins' to have along the way - whether that's doing your first backhop, doing 4 or 5 in a row for the first time, doing your first bike length gap or doing some huge moves, there's lots of little victories you get that help keep it all fresh and interesting. As a result, it doesn't matter what age you're at or what level you're at, it'll still be fun. Realistically as you get older the chances of you being the next Danny MacAskill/Fabio Wibmer/whoever diminish, but if you're just doing it to have fun that's irrelevant.

That looks awesome. Great job! Kudos for putting the time, effort and money into making it.

I've been running HC3s on MT2 bodies for the past few years. It's weird - on some bodies they seem to have a bit of play and on some they don't. I'm pretty fussy about setups and in all honesty it's never really been noticeable/a problem for me. When you're not riding and you go looking for it you'll find the play there, but when I'm riding they just stay in the same spot typically. Also, don't bother getting the MT6/7 levers, especially if you're using the HC3 blade. You're basically paying a lot more for virtually the same thing, but with the added weak spot of that BAT adjuster dial hole. You can't use the BAT adjuster along with the HC3 blade so you don't really gain anything apart from the upgraded bar clamp which you can just buy on its own anyway. With how temperamental Magura levers are, just going for the cheaper bodies and swapping the more expensive blade part out when you change over seems to be the most economical way to go.

The Hope ones do seem to be a bit stronger than the cast/forged ones, so hopefully you'll have more luck with them

That last little brakeless line was super nice

You wouldn't need a whole new rear wheel, necessarily - just lace a 26" rim to the hub you've already got? You'd just need the spokes/rim/tyre so it won't be quite as bad.