Mark W

It's extra shit watching it on a phone. At least on a computer you have enough screen size to kind of glean some usable info of what's going on. That said, what was clear was that that was a beautifully made trail.

The split washer is to go on the inside of the chainring. That's what makes it compatible with either 19mm or 22mm axles. From memory, you'll need one conical spacer and one thin spacer each side, but realistically if there's chainring and crank clearance you're pretty much good to go. They're not as 'fiddly' to set up as things like the Hope cranks where if you get the spacing wrong your cranks explode.

Ooh, nice! That's a cool looking bike. Out of interest, what's that rear tyre like? I've seen them on Vee Tire Co's site, but it seems getting hold of them is a little problematic... Is it performing OK?

There was/is also the 24UK. I've seen a few in the past run seatless. From memory they had relatively trialsy geo (by which I mean a long old WB), plus they have V-Brake mounts so you can look really cool and on trend on Instagram:

The only one that comes to mind is the original Onza Zoot... Going to go out on a limb and say that wasn't what you're looking for As far as I can remember, all the other brands (Echo, GU, Neon, Because, Kabra, RockMan, Ozonys, TMS) were all horizontal dropouts, but there may be some random one I've forgotten about. The TMS Evo frame kind of used a hybrid style dropout where they had a sliding vertical dropout setup, but... faff. Lots of faff.

None of that is particularly applicable to the Arcade cranks. The spacers and washers are to switch it from either 68mm or 73mm (as is the case for most spacers for almost all BBs/cranksets - there are a few different width shells brands use, so it'll take that into account arther than "margin of error" on construction), and to take into account chainline and so on. The internal spacer is also crucial as that's what prevents sideloading the bearings. On MTB/Road setups they're typically more to just prevent the ingress of dirt/water, but on this BMX style of BB, they provide support for the inner race of the bearings. For the thinner/smaller washers, these are just to get enough clearance for your frame. It's pretty hard to get that element of it wrong as such - the tension in the BB bearing is handled by the inner tube spacer and the crank bolts. Those washers are more to finesse crank positioning. There's enough overlap on the crank (or cranks on the V1 crankset) that you don't really need to worry about the crank bolt (or bolts) bottoming out.

Bit of a random one, but if you want to see some really good riding, you could do worse than head here. Stan has put out some properly good videos over the years!

It's cool seeing how many different directions people take these builds in. Glad you like yours Matt!

Agreed - those couple of clips were sweeeeet. Whole video was really good though, really showed off just how tech/fiddly you can be. That level of tech-ness still came across loud and clear in the video rather than the riding just looking "small", which is usually pretty hard to achieve (although no doubt it doesn't make those spots look anywhere near as grim as they probably were IRL). I say "small" because the scale of riding definitely wasn't, but hopefully you get what I mean.

Not all shims and stems are created equal, so it may have been a bit of a random/one-off issue with that one perhaps? I'm not sure what you shimmed it out to (25.4mm or 31.8mm?) but that may have played a part too? Just thinking that if NS supply their bars with a shim then it should be OK. Depending on where it cracked it may have been a case of it being tightened too much too? If you're happy to use a small shim, BBB do a 90x35 with 25.4mm clamp: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BBB-High-Rise-Handlebar-Stem-MTB-Alloy-T6-35-Angle-25-4mm-Black-90mm/143482088216 Forged stems are usually a good call for strength - getting that material all aligned is nice... Getting a higher rise CNC'd stem is usually tricky just because they're much more wasteful to make so I imagine most companies don't want to f**k with it. The billet would have to be pretty big to do any kind of decent length 35° stem in comparison to the usual 0 or 10° stems Hope do, for example. You should be all good with keeping your back safe - may be worth trying to tap up Nick Goddard on Facebook or Instagram and seeing if he's got any tips. He's properly into the calisthenics/movement stuff these days so may have some ideas for movements/exercises/stretches you can do to get your back sorted out and a bit more resilient. You're never too old or f**ked for that

It should be fine. It's worth using a file to smooth off the edges (inside and outside) of the top of the steerer so it doesn't scratch up the inside of your steerer, and also gives a cleaner start to the thread for your top cap. Depending on how far you want to cut them down, you should still have enough threads left for the top cap, but it would be worth having a quick measure to be sure. EDIT: If you're using a hacksaw, get yourself a fresh blade and also some form of lube to help ease things up a bit. There's probably better stuff you could use, but I found something as basic as GT-85 worked well for me. There's no way around the innuendo - if you go for it dry, it'll feel like even more effort than it will do if you lube it up.

I couldn't find the video of it, so here's a transcript instead taken from a news report (the initial question is in a response to a Telegraph interview with Johnson just over a week ago where he said that he was now going to take direct control of the government response): Sir Keir asked Mr Johnson directly at prime minister’s questions: “The Telegraph is reporting that the prime minister has decided to take direct control of the government’s response to the virus. So, an obvious question for the prime minister: who has been in direct control up until now?” Mr Johnson responded: “I take full responsibility for everything this government has been doing in tackling coronavirus and I’m very proud of our record." If they think their response is something to be proud of, it's all the more reason for people to hold them to account. If he expressed contrition, empathy or... well... any kind of human/non-fanny response to it and admitted that they dropped the ball in some instances that'd be one thing, but the whole Conservative mantra is 'never apologise'. The closest they got was with the Cummings shit, and even then it was "We're sorry you feel angry/upset/whatever about it". Also, it shows the disconnect between what he thinks and what everyone else thinks:

The problem is that our government aren't, and haven't been. Getting f**ked for getting hold of PPE because they didn't want to join the EU procurement essentially for political reasons (then using the excuse they 'didn't see the e-mail'), then ignoring all the offers from UK suppliers and buying some dodgy shit from a Turkish T-shirt manufacturer, deliberately lying/misleading people about the amount they were able to get (counting a pair of gloves as two items so it doubles how much they acquired), handing contracts for things like ventilators not to experienced people in the industry but Tory donors - that's just PPE. That doesn't touch on things Dominic Cummings breaking the rules and their pitiful attempts to justify it (e.g. Gove saying that he also in the past has gone for a drive to test his eyesight - what a f**king dick that guy is). Making it so MPs aren't allowed to vote remotely, and have to go to Parliament to vote (meaning that MPs who aren't able to go there because they're unable to travel, are shielding due to partners, etc. aren't able to be a part of it, effectively disenfranchising millions of people of their right to be represented) simply because it meant that they could try and push through some of their legislation and have some back-up for Johnson at PMQs - on that note, seeing Tory MPs on Twitter say it was absolutely ridiculous and that they were against it, but then voting for it along the party line: c**ts. Then look at school re-opening. No real communication with schools, but they just started making bold claims and hoping that everyone else would scramble to pick up the pieces. That's now been a huge U-turn, as if it wasn't possible to imagine that schools wouldn't be able to magic extra classrooms out of thin air. People have died because of their mismanagement more directly too. Making hospitals discharge patients into care homes without testing has caused the outbreaks in care homes that are currently killing people off and also dragging the R-rate back up. Or testing, for that matter - claims that we have a 'World class track and trace' program that was supposed to be up and running in time for this phased re-opening at the start of June. That's been totally mis-managed and won't be ready for months (this story from a whistleblower within gives an insight into how f**ked it really is). When the WHO were pushing testing as being key in March, the government stopped doing it despite saying that people who needed to be tested could be tested. When they made a big claim about getting to 100,000 tests, they had to totally fudge the numbers just to tick over that target for one day, before it went down as normal. It's a proper shambles. I get what you're saying about this being a new thing that people are having to face, and that it's impossible to know what's right to do, but calling a government out for outright lying, saying they're "following the science" but then doing the total opposite of that, wilfully ignoring the opportunity to protect key workers by getting PPE in time, imprisoning people for lockdown breaches they bend over to defend their own staff from, the list goes on - that is all simply down to who is currently in charge of our government. As evidenced by the stories that pop up immediately afterwards, there's been virtually no consultation with different sectors about how to open up again, or what's best for people. It's just "Oh shit, this Cummings story isn't going away - quick, tell people they can to the park with their friends!" People were getting unhappy so Johnson did his "You can go out, but don't go out. Go to the beach, but don't go the beach. Go to work, but don't go to work" speech to try and appease them, but instead just caused more confusion. Again, that's not the pandemic being hard to gauge (as evidenced by Wales and Scotland not totally f**king it up and maintaining their previous positions), that's just Boris Johnson being Boris Johnson. Trump makes his mismanagement of Covid-19 incredibly easy to spot because he's so outspoken on any platform he can get on, but in Britain we're not far off that level of ineptitude - it's just slightly more behind closed doors, with a revolving cast of f**kwits being wheeled out in front of the camera. The R rate is already above 1 in some areas in England, but they're still pushing to re-open places. It's almost like they are just going for that herd immunity they said they wanted to go for, then said they'd never even thought or spoken about. The thing is, in Scotland and Wales (and even in England if they actually abided by their own rules) there is a more clearer path for leaving lockdown, and it's essentially the same as the one that New Zealand successfully followed. Unfortunately England/the UK Government is being led by a trio of people who believe in the power of three word slogans above all else, and that have "had enough of experts".

The Cult chains are Z510s, but I think they're 'just' 510s, not the HX version.

The Z1eHX is effectively the 'e-bike' version of the Z610HX. They discontinued the Z610 HX in lieu of that chain as they wanted a chain with a higher maximum load capacity/rating for e-bikes, so just adapted it to be the Z1eHX (which is also in line with their new naming system for chains). The max load for the Z610 HX was 1200kg whereas the new version is 1370kg, so it's a reasonable step up. That line of chains has generally been reliable for me so I'm hoping they won't have totally ballsed them up. The only KMC chains I've ever had repeated issues with were Kools - the Z510HX and Z610HX chains I've used have been all good. I've been in the process of breaking one or two in the past, but spotted the links splaying/having a bad time before they shit the bed fully. Hopefully manufacturers developing more e-bike chains will work out well for us in the trials world too though, it's a step in the right direction at least.

First world problems and stuff, but ordered my first ever 'proper' mountain bike (and first complete bike in about 16-17 years) a week ago. I know first hand bike companies/shops are super busy at the moment, but most of them who are dealing with a backlog have a notice up mentioning it, and giving updated delivery times. If they don't have that, on their social channels they at least say something. This company still had a 'ships in 24hrs' thing on their website. The way their system works is the bikes are all PDI'd and ready to go, they just slap a label on and punt them out the door. It's been over a week now, and nothing. I was told two days ago that they would ship it this week so it would hopefully reach me by the end of next week. I haven't had a dispatch e-mail or change of order status today, so it would appear it hasn't been sent. Their delivery estimate was 4-5 working days within France (where they're based), and longer elsewhere, so it effectively means that it won't be here until at least something like the 8th June. Again, get that people have been/are busy, but just tell people that. If I'd have known from the get-go that there was likely a week plus lead time it'd be fine, but when you're waiting for a "Your order has been shipped" e-mail but it's not forthcoming it's balls. Pretty f**king sucky when the weather here has been awesome, and I've discovered there's load of trails to ride hidden in the woods near my place (and f**k all trials stuff to ride within riding distance of my house currently).

The e-Stop brakes are the same as the standard brakes, just with their 'Sport' pads in them. In terms of fit and performance, the actual brake itself is no different to the regular MT5s (which are fine on trials bikes).

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe they're going to be back in stock any day now. They're closed yesterday/today to restructure the stock system, and there are a lot of supplier orders to go in once things are back in place - I believe Trialtech tensioners are going to be in there.

If it's just a slight amount it probably will just need to be tightened up Just replied to your other topic too.

Think that's a 2003 T-Pro - just after the old 2002 style round tubed one, but before they switched to the Koxx Levelboss copy.

Yeah, I'd agree with that. That's why it's been interesting seeing the Glasseyetrials clips being posted up of Porter, Bessell and co and a lot of people are talking about it being TGS, and wanting to bring that style of riding back under the whole "TGS ain't dead" banner. Their riding was almost the opposite of what TGS really was back then. They just did trials, basically - riding over anything/everything. Agree with Flipp about the different 'thing' with TGS. Think it's style, attitude but also spot choice.

Your best bet will be to measure the one you've got there at the moment. You'll need to measure the width of the BB shell on the frame (it will most likely be 68mm), and then the length of the axle itself. Assuming it's a square taper BB, there are a few on the market that should work - you'll just need to double check those measurements to work out which way to go with it. The only other thing is before pulling the trigger on a new BB, try tightening the current BB. It could just be it's a bit loose and that's generating the play. If the bearings have died they usually get a bit rowdy, so it could be a cheap fix and all you need to do is nip the BB up. Your best bet is to loosen the non-drive side a touch (it's a regular thread, so you'll need to turn it anti-clockwise), then try and tighten the drive side (it's opposite thread, so turn it anti-clockwise), then tighten up the non-drive again.

Really good video Mike, enjoyed it a lot

Just out of interest, if you can stretch to the Czar, that would theoretically also include the Flow Plus? The only reason I mention it is it negates the issue of the square taper cranks and Kenda tyres on the standard Flow. The tugs on the Flow are really nice - you don't need to have any worries about them For what it's worth, the usual rear hub upgrades people make to something like the Hope Pro 4 would still be do-able on the Czar. The Spanish BB aspect is a fair point, although they tend to be pretty reliable on those bikes. The tensioners aren't as prone to damage as conventional mech hanger mounted tensioners either - they're just far inboard enough they tend to be tucked out of the way of most impacts.

The original Arcade had a 90x35 stem