Tartridge

Useless. Try again.

Is it? The one i measured up there was 542 :blink:

Right. This is how you work out spoke lengths. Measure the ERD of the rim (dont ask, just do it). Measure 4 simple dimensions on your hub. Download a spoke calculator programme for Excel. Put the numbers in. Read off spoke lengths. Measuring your rim ERD: Get 2 spokes and 2 nipples. Thread the nipples onto the spokes til the end of the spoke is flush with the top of the nipple, loctiting it in place. Cut the spoke down to 200mm overall length (needs to be accurate to 1mm) Repeat, so you have two. Pop them through opposite holes in your rim (valve hole and join are good markers) and measure the distance between the two ends with a ruler. Here it is 142mm. So you add on the 400mm of the spokes, making the ERD 542. For mod wheels, theyre usually under 400 - so measure how much the spokes overlap by, and subtract it from 400. So thats 366mm in this case. This value goes into the 'ERD' field in your spoke calculator (more on that later) Measuring the hub: This is also very easy. All you need is 4 simple dimensions to a reasonable accuracy. The dimensions you need are: Centre of hub to Right Flange Centre of hub to Left Flange Diameter of Right Flange Diameter of Left Flange MTB rear hub spacing is 135mm - so halve this, and find a place on the hub that is 67.5mm from one of the ends of the axle (hub graphics/logos help here) In this case, the bottom of the serial number is pretty close (68mm from the drive side end), so i'll use that. Measure from that imaginary marker to the middle of the Right Flange... bout 22mm in this case. And then to the left flange... bout 33-34mm. Then you need to do the flange diameters. This is from the centre of one spoke hole to the centre of the opposite spoke hole. Tis about 55mm here, its a bit skewed cos of perspective. Do the left and the right flange. Many manufacturers have these dimensions on their website. Then click here if you have any common sense, and here if you are rather thick. Then click 'Open'. Click 'OK' if it gives you some bullshit about Macros and security levels. I'll run through the 'thick' version... normal people will be able to work it out. Input no of spokes - easy. Input the ERD you just measured. Centre to flange... self explainatory - you just measured it. Do right hand side first. Flange diameter - ditto - Right hand side. Set spoke hole diameter to 2.4 Set X to 3 (not 2.5 as shown) for normal wheels. 2 and 4 can be used, but this is unusual. The number in the bottom right is then your spoke length for that side of the hub. Repeat using the 'Left Flange diameter' and 'Centre to left flange' dimensions to get the other side. And... thats it! The end to all 'What spoke length?!' topics, woooo!! ;)

Dimensions of Profile Mini Cassette Rear Hub: WL, width from center to left flange 36.0 WR, width from center to right flange 25.0 dL, left flange diameter 43.0 dR, right flange diameter 55.0

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=35760

Im sure a slab of 1/4" half-decent aluminium alloy is a lot stronger than a bit of cheesy cast offcut aluminium.

Pretty much (Y) Just an arm with a nylon roller on a couple of bearings... which bolted to the mech hanger with a 15mm-headed bolt (like i always carry a pedal spanner around with me :-)... and didnt stay tight, haha.

I suppose the Rennen one IS slightly better than the Forge one, in that it clamps the tensioner in 2 places... Still, lack of spring doesnt really turn me on after the issues i had with my Forge... You done a top job there Mr Todger :-" Well impressed (Y)

Because people are stupid! Hey, we buy Brisa frames and forks, dont we?!

Could have used round holes, saved time, made it lighter, and just as weak? (Y)

Piranha (sp) That fishy thing anyway...

Hes just said he got Zoo bars and Echo stem!?

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=30520 :-