Tartridge

Mine was more than 25 last time i did it. Its a decent indicator for average people, but for more active people, its crap. I think i worked out 'Shadow' from Gladiators' BMI once - came to 'Sevely Obese', haha.

Vario Tibo :wub: http://www.trialcore.de/bikes/bikes-vario-tibo26.jpg

Feel free to do that if you like, exams have finished now, so turnaround is back to the normal 1-2 days :wub: As for helping out at the moment - sounds like your nipples need a bit of lube (oooooOOooohhh sir). Im not sure why he's decided to use plain/butted mix of spokes... probably as Andy said - didnt have the right length... or, though you'd need stronger spokes on the drive side cos its trials... or something. Either way, he sounds well oldskool, haha, being afraid to tension drilled rims!

Thats a very good point (Y)" :"> Somehow my brain didnt register that you could add stuff around the pic, sorry, haha!

I think he's looking for wallpapers guys...

Give Clive a call.

Which one?

Lol :"> Yeah, drive side are tighter by 'feeling', and also by their tone when you twang them :blink:

Anything of use here? Gapdrop to a post springs to mind, as well as Ali C's roll/flick off thingy.

For example: 200N force in each spoke (say), 16 spokes per side. Then we need to find the horizontal component of this force. Total force = 200 x 16 = 3.2kN. Angle of spokes for a (correctly dished) rear wheel on the drive side will be approximately [sin-1 19/260] = 4.2 degrees, and non drive side [sin-1 30/262] = 6.6 degrees. So, sideways force from both of these is: Drive = 3200 Sin 19/260 = 4.08N In order to have a balanced (at this point - ie. dished) wheel, you therefore need the same sideways force from the non drive side spokes. So 4.08 = 16 X Sin 30/262 X = ~125N tension in non drive side... Compared with 200N tension in drive side. Only theoretical, but shows (hopefully) what i mean. Needs a tensiometer for 'real' values.

Axle flex :blink: You could also argue that the hub shell twists, transferring force to the drive side spokes before the non drive side spokes.

Well, if you have even TENSION each side, then you'll have equal sideways force from each side, and the rim will be in the centre of the hub flanges. Obviously though, you just build a wheel til its right - which IMO is the best way to do it! I'll do some maths in a sec :blink:

Dan, i suggest you be quiet now :blink:" Halfords mechanics (Y)

Possibly be around... have to see what state my bike is in...

Its a site, with pics on it..? Pretty cool, must have used a fair few cans doing that lot (Y)

1200mm wheelbase (Y)" Nice pics (Y)

Aye, check out those rear spokes (Y)" Looks like a Ti rotor on the back of that Kot... interesting...

Looks like you need a 127.5 then... Measure the shell yourself - it'll be either 68 or 73mm.

Its horrible, haha. You twist the spokes around each other, which in effect is similar to tying and soldering. Looks, erm... different :( Google it for pics.

Its not even that much - spokes will typically be around 15mm shorter for radial than 3cross... so... thats 15/260 of the weight saved (assuming plain gauge spokes)... but the head/elbow weighs more than the middle. Something like DT Double Butted spokes come in at ~200g per wheel (claimed). Basically, you'll save 10g a wheel, at a push. Not really worth worrying about IMO, especially when it WILL break your hub - its just a matter of time. Some people are prepared to do it for looks though... and it does look pretty funky.

It depends greatly on the head angle, and how that 'top tube' length is measured :(

Clue in the title of the video there... :D" Do whatever works best for you :D

Google is your friend :D

Thought it would be something like that - and i have to agree with you - it would be easy to do so. Not offended at all - just curious as to what you thought :D Cheers

Crikey, a lot of effort gone on here! :D Alternatively, just go to Google, and seach for: "insert song lyrics here" lyrics Never failed for me.