Adrian

u recieved the money thursday as you told me in a pm.... also wheres the cable? how come the spring part is all apprat and wont go together (due to 'lip' that the silver metal plate slots into being mashed)... wrong side lever aswel... can you send the cable please, as i did pay you for it ooo no bolts to actualy fit it aswel

ah lol kk i mean he seems 'A ok' but i just want to know when i will get my brake.

the echo rim would beat the crap outa that wheel in a fight you should just get a carbon race hub lol like 10 alu blade spokes and your sorted.. carbon quick release.... just for comps though lol

i dont have his number... lol

my hope mono trial 07 200mm..... sucks. when it works, it works but you can hear the pads rocking, you have to get at least 180mm for the brake to be any good (unless you only weigh like 8/9 stone). theyre harder to set up (i know its not 'hard' but some people find that kind of stuff hard or dont want to break a £160 brake so wont try themselves costing more money), cost more, break more, harder to fix, or you could buy a less attractive brake for half the price that has twice the power, a caveman could set it up and fix it... when sh1t hits the fan you can mix and match any cable lever, cable etc. im only talking from experience, every single bb7 has been more powerfull then the most power hope iv tried, i always hear of hope problems but see hardly any bb7 problems and my lever actualy snapped today, and because the threaded ajusting pin thing that goes through the brasss barrel has cracked i cant take the rest of the lever off so ill have to buy a new piston bit, lever, brass barrel thing and have to rebleed it all..... who ever says 'well my hope is fine, powerful etc'..... just the fact that your telling us proves that its kinda not that often that hopes are perfect, hardly anyone says that about theur bb7 as there is no need to because thats just what all bb7's are like apart from the odd few for contaminated pads or something wrong.. anyways, just my advise... buy a bb7 if you want the best, not the prettiest

hi, i sent ABTRIALS1 £58 last wednesday for an avid ultimate brake, and he said he would send it as soon as he got the money(he got it on thursday), but i still havnt recieved it.... i kept pm'ing him asking whats going on and he replied eventualy on saturday saying he'd post it monday and i have not got it. iv sent him pm's but iv had no reply since saturday, but iv been checking his profile and it says hes been on everyday once or twice.. i dont know what to do? also has anyone got his number? thanks

na the strips sound like speed lol viagra on a ride ROFL

i thought it was called speed?

who was the guy i think on a hydrox and with blue tarty tee? he does an uber front gap.....

wtf how ddnt i know this ride was happening? holy fck i so wanted to go

im there!! if i run you over does that count as a birthday bump? or do i still get arrested?

some thing that hypes me up or makes me angry with he wall (heavy shizzle) and if your only going to use the player for riding then why buy something expensive? when a cheap one will do exactly the same thing and but wont keep costing you loads as you break them... my biking mp3 cost like £15 and i dont notice it in my pocket at all lol

I DONT GET IT, SO WHAT U DO IS SWAP LABBLES FOR 20P ONES? oops caps lol

116mm spacing is like mods, horizontal drop outs which are just more hassel then good.. trust me! you want 135mm spacing, and a deng frame (as in GU, echo, czar, adamant, zoo etc).. the new GU's are the strongest, and i think nicest looking... GU typhoon but to be perfectly honest they are all as strong as f*uck and are almost indestructable, so jus get which ever you think looks best. 116mm spacing means the axel is shorter so stronger but as i said u have mosd drop outs, so when your chain stretches you have to undo all the bolts, move the wheel back, set it strait.. re set your brake etc... which is allllll a pain in the ass with 135mm your tensioner wont let ur chain go slack... you wont snap a 135 deng axel anyways, and there more hubs to chose from...

hmm so thats a no then

well i was thinking when i go on rides and stuff i get to see all the diff frames, and all ill need is one cast for each frame, and obviously alot of the deng frames for example have same sice downbtube and chainstays... i think ill jus try it anyways, jus to add an extra £50+ on my frame when i sell it lol as it would be in mint condition still

i waa thinking of how easy it would be for me to make, carbon, fibre glass, kevlar, aluminium etc protection for what ever part of a bike.. it would need testing first, but i was thinking on the lines of layers, so fibre glass, alu insert, carbon or fibre glass outside... or something like that, would do testing to find best idea.. so i was wondering if i bought some materials and made some, would anyone be interested?? could i sell them? they would be stupidly tough, look good, protect you £300+ frame, match your frame (black silver transparent or colours..?), cheap and custom to your particular frame and you etc..? i know there like armourdillo's and stuff but they just look so rank lol and the chainstay prtectors arent strong enough for trials just a thought

i use a hammer, or a good kick??

i think they just pull out, you have to take the liquid out first though because oil doesnt expand lol... but i remember bleeing mine and i put too much oil in and the liquid came out side of cylinders so i though they might jus pull out?? try it...

oh how i wish i lived in america? cheap as chips

i think the term is elastic modulus or maybe you mean high yield... heres some properties Material .......Modulus ......Yield Point ..................Specific Gravity Aluminum .......10-11 ............11-59 (4-22 annealed.) ....168.5 Steel .............30 ................46-162 ...........................490 Titanium .........15-16.5 .........40-120........................... 280 modulus is kinda stiffnes so image you put the same amount of weight on exact same size bars of diff materials, you would see which are more stiff, and yield point in how far it can bend before it stays bent without going back to shape. so if you got a bar of what ever material and put a weight on one end it would flex, but as you take the weight off it would go back to shape, once you bend it far enough it wil stay bent (its yeild point).. so pretty much just strength specific gravity is just weight... so steel is stronger unless the ti one is bigger which in an axel it wont be. well as i said for £149 they should come up with a better idea for the pins e.g removable rows of pins so they will always be able to be removed no matter how mashed the pins get... i tried to get the pins out of my v8's with mole grips and pliers, i got 4 out lastly, if they're steel they will be painted if they are aluminium they will be anodised, so you can see the difference ah and i thought of a good one, carbon fibre body with steel or alu thread inserts? also a curved face like the new specialized pedals would be nice, which also have needle bearings for added like and strength as well as a mechanism that allows you to adjust how easily the pedals spin yaba daba doooooooooooo

imagine if hope or chris king or deng made a £149 trials pedal now that would be nice as they would make it worth the money

also look at the standard magnesium pedals, all the other brands are exact same as the try-alls (appart from fairy dust) but they cost £17 more so what what do we get for that extra £17 ? free fortune cookie?? 62 grams? youd lose more weight peeling the stickers off your frame... or just eatin one biscute instead of 2 there are some steel ones but the onza and echo vp's are aluminium, hense why they dont rust and die so quickly... the material also doesnt look anything like steel na, the cages die first, so titanium cages... then the the thread for the bolts in the body strip, so maybe better aluminium body... bolts still steel as they are unlikely to snap or ti for weight freaks... nd steel axel as they will still out last the rest anyway or ti axel for the weight freaks also im pretty sure ti fractures alot easy then steel, so when the axels do go.... well... with the steel one it will most likely bend first, you spot it,,, oh dear buy a new pedal... ti axel will just snap and tear a nice chunk of skin off down the side off your legs or just impale you come on!! surely that alone is worth the extra £104 .... if i was going to spend £149 on a set of pedals i would like removable pins that are actualy removable after usage.. maybe like these gussets but with more then 2 removable pins on each face. (a very smooth mate has snapped a pair of these clean in half btw.. not recomended) a hell of alot more unique and nice design so people can see they are different. they even have the holes for reflecters! shows that they are not trials specific at all. i would also like more colours!! lmao like the trial-tech, viz etc magnesium pedals (and all the others) and maybe more then a little painted try-all logo that looks cheap as chips basicaly i dont see how try-all can be so ignorent and just send some thing as standard as that and try and charge so much. i find it funny, you wont look cool with them, because one people wont notice what they are... and if they do they will probs just thing your stupid for buying them ah well.. good luck in selling them they will make the £45 pedals look 'cheaper' so people may buy more of those because it seems like more of a deal now... keep us informed on how many you sell i would realy like to know

hahah what a complete loser!! ballshitting to try and make himself look good rofl lowest of the low