Hope levers are flip-flop so can be used as either left or right and have a reservoir cap on the underside and the above to allow ease of bleeding, they feel really nice on the bike and have plenty of adjustment, bitpepoint and reach.
not keen on the colour used either..........but i honestly think that an anodized finish offers such a better quality finish and image towards te company. lots more durable than a painted finish as well, plus the bonus of being lighter. maybe a black anodize or silver would look nice?? ashley
no need for snails on this frame.............. uses the method of a bolt to tension............... joe why dont you hard anodize the frame rather than paint??? another idea.......... in my oppinion the threaded hole used for the tensioning bolts hsould be helicoiled, as i see this as a potential problem for people stripping them, if helicoiled they can simply be swopped. maybe helicoiling from the factory for the 4 bolt mounts for maguras would be a good idea??? ashley
Unlike most company buy disc brake from others and put their logos on, we design a trials specific disc brake and make it ourselves in our own factory. copied from dengs site............ shame the design of the calliper is almost exactly the same as a hope............................... good luck to deng with these new products. some nice work going on!! ashley
don't think that will happen any time soon................................ as for material going up in price.............tell me about it, cheap titanium............£104 per kg
would be interesting to see a stock with a bash plate, although it is unesesary weight, looks like they have just mocked a frame up to me.............................
dropouts look a bit different as well, looks better without all the gussets around the seat tube. no disc mount also, looks to be a proto rear hub as well. monty should shot peen then anodise frames!!!! would make the quality of the finish so much better!!!!
the bearing issue was taken on board a long time ago, still in development, a needle roller bearing is the general idea at the moment for the ratchet body. the pro 2 mod hubs use custom stainless steel bearings.
use either a wire brush or scotch brite, work in one direction only though............................... i wouldnt of thought smoothing the welds out is a good idea. ash