Ashley Smith

geax used to make a tyre specifically for trials the model name was the sedonna, i dont think these are made any more but they used to be quite good, although the sidewalls were a little on the thin side ash

not really its quite a specialised trade, we have it at work, and i did think about getting my rim done, but never really took the idea further than a thought............ ash

ive just got one of those cameras or very similar........... the lead i had to buy was a 4pin to 4 pin firewire cable, this was £15 from comet. i plugged the camera in and turned it on then windows xp automatically recognised it and asked which program i would like to use, i got power producer with the camera, but that was a bit poo! windows movie maker is good for beginners regards ash

the one on tarty crank puller regards ash

your local bike shop wuld be a good bet tarty sells them quite cheap ash

when you say echo 05 do you mean the 05 echo cnc rims? they are not really that wide there 38/39mm so i coudlnt see it rubbing, i used to have a try-all rim which are 47/48mm wide with a panaracer 2.4 and that did'nt rub so i cant ser there being any problems ash

oh no.........not another bikevbike thread............ gee whizz oh as its you dale i prefer the adamant for obvious reasons, the high bottom bracket and the looks, rik will agree with me also as will ryan smith, and joe ash a2 all the way...

what did you have problems with? the hope hose? i have never found a problem with this braided hose from hope and i have been using it for two years.... it increases the feel at the lever and reduces flex in the cable, it also looks more pimp this hope hose is the same as goodridge hosing apart from it is braneded differently also stay clear of the unex stuff it is crap ash

do you live in burnley? we usually ride there quite often, i never see you out though............ let me know when your out my msn is trialnoir@hotmail.com add me theres a whole bunch of us ride locally probably about 15 of us ash

HELMET

its a biketrial club ash

some of us colne and burnley lads are going to be making an appearance tomoz ash

by the sounds of it you have tried.'too much' and it has glazed the pads over... my advice is to pop a set of new pads in and clean the disc brake rotor with hot soapy water......... then check calliper for correct alignment..... facing mounts is always a good idea..... the next step is to bed in the rotor and pads the best way in which i have found to do this is to ride the bike normally, dont pour water over it or muddy water etc i have always found this makes it worse..... dont get the pads red hot either , this will just make them glaze over again... riding the brake normally on and off etc will bed the disc in sufficiently i hope this helps you regards ash also a thought, there may be a chance that the seals are leaking at the back of the pads or one of the connection ines may be lose, check there is no oil that is going to contaminate the pads and rotor a fresh bleed always goes down a treat aswell ash

nice bike there................not my personal chice but.......... they ride real nice my friend rik has one its sits lovely on the back wheel.......... ash

your best bet for warrenty is through tim.................providing you can get hold of him because this is who you bought them from..................... phil or dave and adam should'nt have to mess arouns with the warrenty because they did'nt sell them to you.. i think you will be very lucky if you manage to get another set f forks on replacement.......... your best bet is to buy a set of either the new zoo forks or the hi-fi's ash

just rode manchester today............. was awesome aprt from those little people who think they are big and have authority who walk round in red coats with community warden written on them......................... ash

nothing to worry about............it will close up when you build the wheel...................... ash

yer, i think that you should buy the one for £70, i dont think you will find one much cheaper than that...... there a real good quality free wheel aswell. ash

to remove the ratchet body from an xc/mono or even bulb/big-un, simply use a cassette lockring tool, remove the cassette leaving the bare ratchet body......... next use a flat bladed screw driver to lever the cap on the axle off the axle, (the cap is held on with a rubber o-ring inside it) then simply pull the ratchet body out, being careful to watch the springs dont go everywhere......... the grease that comes in a hope is quite thick the reason for this being is that the hubs are designed for xc/freeride............ ive found the best substance to run the hope hubs on is light oil rather than grease........ ash

dont you think if the manufacturer puts a tightening torque on somehting it is there for a reason though........only my oppinion (i like to try and stick to official settings) finger tight in my view is not tight enough it should be done up quite tight..........not always a need for a torque wrench just doing the lockring up tight will be sufficient ash

i have to agree with ali here why replace a part if it isnt broken............. ash

then things tend to go ping...................oh dear the thread has stripped or crossed

What is the point of coming on here moaning about it.......... why not use your common sence and try phoning whoever you ordered it off, it may have been forgotten about ash

To me it sounds like there is too much grease in the hub, wip the cassette off and take the ratchet body off, clean out al the grease with a rag, then use a light oil instead of grease, this always works best........ the grease actually dampens the spring mechanism rather than letting it actaute......... 3 in one oil should work a treat ash

40 N/m