Bigman

Hmmm, good weather u say.......... [attachmentid=3504] Yeh baby Adam

Think what u will Simon....... But my reasoning for getting the Ashton is that i have ridden long bikes for over 2.5 years now, basicaly since i have started riding and i was always the inch cherishing rider, but recently when i had my control i was trying more streety moves but finding it hard as the echo didn't feel flicky enough for it, so that is why i changed to the ashton....... About feeling cramped, the reach (centre of BB to centre of the top of the headtube) is exactly the same as the control, but due the the steeper headangle it brings the front wheel further underyou, making the shorter wb Any hoo, glad u guys like it, i am LOVING it............ Adam

HAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHA.... breathe AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH Prawn u fat bugger get that HD in your hub NOW I have only snapped 2 hehe Adam

I forgot to mention one VERY important thing about the reds..... Where plaz pads are SHOCKING in the wet, the heatsink red pads are PHENOMINAL they are realy realy good in the wet!!!!! Adam

I REALY like my read compund in my CNC pads, i am currently running it on a PROPERLY dead grind on a DX32 in my ashton, they hold sooooooo well........ On the bike at the moment the power is a little different than when i had them on the control, on the control they were BITEY BITEY uber loud pads, on the ashton they are not so bitey, they have a little modulation (which on the ashton is nice ) but when the brake is needed they hold SOOOO well, they are also currently perfectly silent, which i am loving.......... So yeh, in my oppinion go for the reds, they are also cheaper Adam

Well, here it is homies my ashton: [attachmentid=3327] [attachmentid=3328] [attachmentid=3329] And my little mech mod (prawns idea), so i can run the chain through normaly, yet still easily remove the mech when taking out my rear wheel......... [attachmentid=3330] Spec: Ashton Justice Frame BT F6 vee and disc forks FSA Pig headset Cannondale 120mm 5deg stem Zoo Bars Rear magura HS33, heatsink CNC backings with red pads and home made carbon booster Front 203mm avid BB7 with XTR lever and cable Rear CK classic, SS drive shell, HD axle built to a DX32 drilled with 22mm hole and a Maxxis SR highroller 2.5 Front Hope XC built to a DX32 with 25mm holes and countersunk sidewall drilling, Single ply maxxis highroller 2.35 Middleburn RS7 cranks, onza SS 20t chainring and custom machined and drilled bash Trivativ 118mm ISIS BB Gusset Slim Jim pedals Think that is it....... Hope u like Adam

I expect i will end up parking in the Civic centre car park, as it is nice and central for everywhere And hopefully it won't be to busy...... Adam

I am running a DX32 on the front, but it has 1 inch holes drilled into it, i LOVE it, it makes such a stable front end, on natural there is barely any tyre fold with a 2.35 maxxis. When drilled with holes such as mine they actualy come down to a respectable weight, i think mine is between 500 and 600g but i can't remember what exactly............ As for the Hubs, i expect they are very similar to the shimano hubs, and therefore steer WELL clear!!!! Adam

U love me more than Nick Glad to see all u guys are coming, i will be at copthorne for 11 no problem Adam

HAHA, that was quite funny when it happened Theres pauly lining up for a sidehop and BAM hes running around crying like a girl Adam

Best value for money has to be the Avid BB7, i had a hope mono trial 180mm for 8 months ish and then changed back to the avid as i found the hope to be very tempermental and just never seemed to work perfectly all the time....... Avids are truely awsome, i have been running a 203mm for the past 3 months and it is awsome, sooo powerful yet realy controlable. Also they are much more adjustable than the hopes, you can make an avid feel exactly how YOU want!!! Adam

I tend to usualy get straight on and ride, but nothing big for the first 15-20 mins or so, i find warming up while riding has got to be the best way as it is warming up the specific muscles that are going to be in use when u start riding properly........ Adam

Topics like this are shite to be honest........... Drops are pointless realy, yeh they may look impressive, but there are so many things that can go wrong with a drop which can see your bike broken, or worse yourself...... Drops up to 6ft could be considered useful as they are more than likely to be incorperated into sections which u may see in competitions or within a certain line on some street riding, but anything over that i don't see much point in as all that will happen is something will break in the end........ Also there is a classic hint of trials forum tape measure in these sorts of topics!!!!!! Adam.

COME ONE GUYS.......... Plymouth, sunday come now.......... Got new forks ordered so my bike will be all working again Adam

Steel cutting disc dude. Adam

what, u have killed it already pete??????? Adam

WHAT THE F*CK what was a little silly............ Adam

In my oppinion, from owning both i personaly would sitck with the T-rex, i went from a T-rex to a 1100mm BT raven 6 and initial it was amazing, on the backwheel they are awsome, and for gapping/sidehopping etc brilliant but for anything that required rolling up stuff, ie taps etc it was a b*****d, just way to long In my oppinion........... If i was to go to a raven again i would deffiantly go for a 1065 version........ I then changed from a 1100mm raven to a 1085mm control and my taps etc immediatly improved...... I have recently changed to a new Ashton and i am loving that at the moment. Adam

Hmmm, being a rider from around the Telford area when i am at UNI perhaps i should join................ Adam

It realy depends on what brake u have........... I mean a magura disc could be bled with water as it is normaly bled with mineral oil, like the HS33 brakes where everybody runs water...... Where as a hope, hayes etc could not be as they use dot4-5 oil which is completely different. BUT........ It is not advisable to bleed a disc brake with water as the boiling point of water is much lower than that of an oil, and when using the brake to slow you down when stopping or riding down a hill for example there is aloit of heat build up on the rotor and pads, with oil it may expand slightly (what the open system is for) but with water it would just boil and bugger up all the internals of the brake. So bleeding a disc brake with water is NOT recomended Hope that helped Adam

I have to agree on this Stan, that does look absolutely GORGEOUS..... shame it is so long Adam

Right, i don't think i will be able to make it this sunday, and i don't think the weather is going to be very good.......... So lets make it the week after, sunday the 2nd of April Adam

Ah but dude, he is less than half my weight i bet, but more than twice as harsh as me Adam

Just keep practicing dude, u see me gaping in Pompey last saturday, twas like utterly butterly smooooooth As to the tips on gapping from the edge, it does take quite abit of practice to make sure u know where exactly to take off from, as if u are to close to the edge u will just roll off, and too far back from the ledge and the idea of using the preasure in the tyre to help with the gap is lost...... So just keep practicing, it will come with time Adam

Looking good Joe!!!! Don't see my name in there any where Adam