Bigman

Hi Rick I wouldn't say that theres a regular ride in cov, but I would be up for an evening or friday afternoon ride most weeks! 07970176556 is my number! Adam

I had abit more of a look around too, deffinately look aluminium now, so I have ordered one, £16 for the lever, bargin! lets see how it works on the echo disc brake caliper Adam

Well, a few of the cheap magura disc levers have been plastic over the years, and although this is a shimano, it is a cheap lever so I wanted to find out that it was metal for definite before ordering one. Adam

Righty then, has anybody had any experience of the shimano M445 levers, all I realy want to know is whether they have an aluminium body or not?? Any other info would be awesome too! Thanks Adam

I might be up for this, after 10-11 months off a bike it would be good to get out! Adam

I currently have a TR disc on the front of my 24, it is ok, but nothing special, its soon going to be replaced with either a BB7 or Mono trial..... Adam

Going on what mark actualy wrote, try-all aren't making rims, Viz are making rims that are similar to the try-all hOle rims but in 24inch. A better choice of rims would be good, I have just bought a 24inch and have an Echo TR rear rim at the moment, seems pretty good so far, tyre choice is the biggy though as mentioned, I have just bought a second hand 2.4 Big Betty to try as it was cheap, hopefully it will be pretty good, just need to sort a front tyre now! Adam

obviously its a 26inch just looks like a standard onza Limey 3 to be honest....... Adam

I will let you know how I get on with my Echo trial 24 when it rocks up here this week Its got a trialtech high rise stem so should be good! Adam

I will have a new bike soon, I am based in bedworth and will be up for some evening rides in cov! Adam

Drill out a snail cam and run it on the drive side only, it will not force the frame out too much and it will keep the hub from moving forward during pedaling, I know many riders who have used thier CK's like this with no problems Adam

Bike looks awesome! but one sugestion, raise your levers up, it will make many moves alot easier as you fingers won't be trying to reach around to find the levers all the time, I have seen low levers, but yours are abit crazy! Adam

Love it! and the fact its dual disc is WIN! Adam

Seriously impressive Damon, not only do you seem to be going bigger, but your deffinately getting smoother too! Adam

Looks realy smart, these new echo builds are pretty sweet! Only thing I would recomend is to rotate the bars back abit, they are WAY too far forward! Adam

Seeing as you have had it for a while, how are you finding the front brake? I realy fancy one of these full builds, and alter as you have with a higher stem etc. Thanks Adam

Proper Impressive Josh! Deffinatly want to see it in the flesh when it's done! Adam

The guys have made some good points, however I always think that smoothness can be most noticed on gaps, to be smooth on gaps you must land with your bike pushed right out infront of you so that when you land you can absorb all the momentum with your legs ensuring that the bike doesn't just tank into the edge! The key to smoothness is using your body to absorb ALL impacts, not letting the bike bar the brunt of it! Adam

Tioga Factory DH, not seen one of them on a trials bike in years, mostly because they are one of the worst tyres ever! barely any grip in the dry and actualy like ice when its wet! Other than that the bike looks very smart! Adam

I hate to contradict this, but you don't realy need a good front brake to do gaps to front, I used to just tap the front wheel on the edge and use the momentum to carry the rear wheel onto the object, I find it works particularly well when there is alot of height involved as i always used to find getting my weight far enough forward for the brake to hold difficult, that and finding a front brake to hold 19st+ on a large front wheel gap is not easy! As for technique, I always found that for front wheel gaps i would always line up fairly straight before the gap, I would only angle to one side if the gap was too narrow to allow my front wheel to drop when preloading. when your lining up give a good preload but try not to let the front wheel drop too low, drop your body more, this keeps the front wheel nice and high for when your launching towards the object, when in the air you want to try and get the rear wheel high before your front wheel hits the edge, this means that when your front wheel hits the edge and you apply the brake (assuming your using the brake) it means that the rear wheel is more likely to be guided smoothly onto the object and not hit the edge. Other than that getting you weight far forward when you land is a must when using the brake, it gives you loads of options when what to do, either roll onto the object smoothly or switch to rear..... A good example of getting the rear wheel high in the air can be seen at 32seconds into this vid: And lots of brakeless front wheel gaps here: Good luck Gary, keep at it! Adam

Looking good dude, I was trying to figure out how it was ligther than my lightest one, but then noticed that your rim has no eyelets! Dave: I ran a rim that was more drilled out than this one for well over 6 months and it was perfect, such a nice front rim! Adam

Commited to front??? hahaha Adam

That looks awesome, How do you find the rear Swampthing and the front motodigger? I am thinking of running a rear swampthing when i get my 24 but I am unsure whether to go for a small block 8 or motodigger on the front! Also hows the high front end? I am looking to run a set of risers and a 150x30 mod stem on mine. Are you running 18-14? If so what length cranks? Thanks Adam

You can see here where the hose went into the frame, unfortunately I do not have a picture of where it came out, but it was on the side inline with the slave. Adam

I did this to a CZAR frame that I had, I made sure that the hole at the top of the headtube was inside the gusset so there was extra strength there, as for the other end, I just positioned it where the cable would line up for the rear brake. When the frame died it did not die where it was drilled! Adam