Jaffacakes

What is it with you and pro's? Ben slinger is my favorite. He is an insane rider and defiantly doesn't get as much credit as he deserves.

I enjoy accomplashing something easily that only weeks before I could not do. Also I find it quite funny how random people come up to us when we are riding (usually about 30 people a day in the summer) and ask why our "BMX" bikes have got no seat, and how other people (generaly rude boys) shout "oil your breaks dick head!" or "giza go on you bike".

So did I and I have never looked back.There nice and short, 998 wheel base.

I'm not going to argue with that...

I only want a light grind really because I am running zoo pads and don't want them to last about a week.

Just wondering which disks people use to grind their rims. I bought a Bosch grinder today from B&Q and I have got two disks. One is a metal grinding disk, and the other one is a metal cutting disk. I haven't ground it yet and I was just wondering which disks you all use. Cheers guys .

I didn't think there was a 2003 T-mag, I'm pretty sure the only frame onza made in that year was a T-pro. This is the 2000 T-mag if you mean that it's really not worth getting at all. The geo is shocking and it feels like a BMX. It won't break on you for a long while though. If you mean this its the 2002 T-mag I think it is a amazing bike and well worth £200 depending on the condition. Except the top bolt of the bash guard tends to get pushed into the frame when it is smashed on the bash.

It will work fine mate. Its all to do with the depth of the caliper and where it is positioned not the forks . Wouldn't you be better off with a bigger rotor than a 160 though? The bigger the rotor more power.

You can just take out the axle in the hub to get the wheel out I should think. You might as well try bending the frame back, if the frame is already brocken like you said then it is pretty much worthless. Get a blowtorch, a hammer and a big piece of rock or metal or something that won't break and lie the frame down on it (the side that is bent at the bottom) and heat it up with the blow torch then wack it down with the hammer. I don't have a clue how long it will stay back to normal though. You could just get a hammer and put it back to normal without the blow torch. I would advise the blow torch though because it involves fire .

Before I go on a big ride, I go to tesco's and find the nicest and cheapest food (tesco value ), a chicken ceasar wrap and a big bottle of energy drink. then after I have been riding I buy a big mc meal and about 5 double cheese burgers, which have gone up to £1:20 .

Nice bike mate, I love the wheels. I don't really like the CLS sticker though, i'm not a big fan of having someone else's name written on my bike .

You can't rip up your fellow Pre Members if you haven't been validated yet . Welcome mate, have fun riding and keep it up. It's hard at first but get's allot easier. Enjoy the Forum as well, It's a mine of info .

At least someone else feels my pain aswell .

Ok cheers guys I'll have a go at it now .

I have got a back wheel that isn't really very true, and I was just wondering if anyone could give me any tips on how do it, it has got a strange wheel build which I can't really explain so here is a picture. It save's paying my LBS about £30 to do it. Cheers guys. And yes... I have an amazing camera .

Good game . Nice and addictive, Bit of a shame when you mess up you have to start all over again though. Quite good for doing front to back wheels aswell .

It would work but it would be so stiff and un powerful, The piston size in a louise is 9mm (like most disk breaks I think ) and The piston size in a HS33 is 14mm so it would just have no real power and just feel awkward. If you are planning to run it in a hope/HS33 lever It wouldn't work what so ever, The hope uses dot 4 or dot 5.1 and the HS33 mineral oil (or more or less anything...even cooking oil or fruit juice) so that wouldn't really work ether. You can take off the lever blade on it if it's a Louise (not sure if the newer ones do it) and put a HS33 blade in there, that way you get a lever blade that is actually half decent, and a TPA.

Good job you are just old enough then mate. Bloody good spelling for a year 4 though!

Are you a complete joke? You are telling me that doing a 7 foot gap to front wheel so smoothly and effortlessy is not stylish? Riding on rocks fluently and accuratly is not stylish? Do you even know what style is?

I would go for echo grips they have a really nice feel but after having them for about 3 weeks (of none stop riding) the grip has gone and when my hands sweat I slip off. I cut the ends off them with a hot knife when I got them and put the grips on then put my bar ends on. It makes them last that bit longer and protect's your bars . I would defiantly not go for foam grips though. My calluses ripped a pair of Monty foams to shreds in a day, Best £7 I have ever spent .

Do you mean what Pete Wright has got? If you do add him to MSN or something.

Nice bike mate. I love the colour scheme, I got my new rear raceline maggie today (shame I ordered front not the back though ). I think your bike will look amazing with the monty stickers.

I just wacked out the old maggie book you get with the HS33 and it says "race oriented brake pad for hard anoized (black) and ceramic coated rims". My guess is they are worse then koolstops since the pamflet also says under the kool stop pad "race oriented brake pad for polished rim surfaces. Excellent for trials!". They should be ok with a harsh grind or some tar though, Probly be ok for the front .

Zoo or GU pads will be really nice. The GU's are very soft so will be very nice on a smooth rim, but I havn't hard good thigs about them. Zoo pads will last you longer but still have a pretty poor wear rate (5-6 months) I am using them now and I think I will always use them.

You are validated mate. You can just put in forsale/wanted that you have some items on ebay and what they are .