Phatmike

Yeah, just normal cable cutters.

Hehe. Me & Todge realised that strength/stiffness might be an issue, having the stays connected by only a 1mm sheet of metal, which is why I designed in the tubes connecting both stays, needless to say the back end seems plenty stiff enough! Yeah, stolen on the last day of college before we broke up for the start of summer, what a gay time! So it left me without a decent bike all summer, which really sucked, but it's great having a nice bike back now!

Hey guys. Been offered a lift to Peterborough on Sunday, is it any good to ride? Any vids/pics of some spots? Trying to work out if it's worth going! Mike.

Damn, if it wasn't for that silly gear/frame rule I would've finished 7th! What're the chances of them dropping those rules for next year?

At the last koxx days.

Photo of me, by Tom Bazso in Brum on saturday.

*gives Steve Barry the anodiser a call*

MAY make an appearence today.

Hey Dave, the Geo is at the top. You'd be surprise how well the pinch bolts can grip it, no different to a stem or handlebar clamp! Cheers tom. ...especially with the?? As Mark said, they're probably at the bottom of a canal or something! Yeah, I didn't want to go overboard on the minimal depth of field, some shots I dropped the aperture to 2.2!

You tighten up both the fun bolts, by using 2 8mm allen keys (as normal), then once they're tight, you can just use one in the fun bolt as a big lever to rotate it back. Mike.

If a certain Mr Burrows decides to attend, I'd like to go up. Hopefully the sections will be more fun than the comp last weekend. :wink2:

You're right in saying that the idea for the eccentric dropouts came from hoffmann, but as I said, I designed them myself, in that they had to be redesigned to allow the use of Chris King fun bolts. I say I designed the frame, but that doesn't mean I came up with the idea of using some tubes welded together to attach parts to. :wink2: As for the bike being ugly, hey that's your opinion, but you ride a Python, hardly the most inspirational bike ever made. Mike.

Yeah, definately worth noting if I do encounter any problems, but it held for the whole of the comp, and sweet 3 hr ride afterwards with no problems, so I'm fairly confident they'll stay. Yeah, I spent about 2 hours saturday night trying to get the gears on, but it was giving me so much grief (cog & chain issues) that I didn't bother. It's a non-production frame anyways, so wouldn't have got championship points anyways, so yeah as per the other rounds, I just competed, but recieved no champ. points. Thanks for the comments, glad y'all like it. Edit: Yeah, the 1st two rounds, I competed with no gears, and got champ points, then they suddenly decided to scruteneer all the bikes after that. There is an inbuilt booster on there, which does a pretty good job, definately no need for another booster! Mike.

Yo guys. Firstly like to give props to Todge for making the frame for me, I managed to persuade him to do it in the space of 10 days! Which is a massive feat considering the amount of effort involved in it. He even drove down from Norwich to my House in malvern (3 hours +) at 9pm friday night to drop it off, so massive thanks to him. www.freshproducts.co.uk I didn't have time to ride it on saturday, so my 1st section at the National round on sunday was my proper 1st go! Haha. Anyways, the pics: Geo: 1070mm, +15mm, 72 degrees, 375mm (with dropouts at shortest point) Full Spec, (if you're interested!) Frame: Fresh Products Custom 26" Frame, with eccentric dropouts designed by myself and removable seat tube gear shifter mount. Forks: GU Headset: King Pewter Front Wheel: King Pewter ISO, Sapim Spokes, on a black Mavic XC717 Disk, built by me. Rear Wheel: King HD Pewter ISO, Sapim Spokes, custom anodised gloss black DX32, built by me. Cranks: Middleburns, with 16t Ti bash. BB: 128mm Truvative Gigapipe. Stem: Thomson Elite X4 110 * 10. Bars: Z00, cut down by 1.25" either side. Grips: ODI Lockon Ruffian MX. Levers: XTR Front, Magura and R.B rear. Cables: Anodised Nokon aluminium front cable, Hope rear Hosing Chain: KMC Kool thin. Drive: 14t Steel King Kog, anodised King Spacers, King Lockring Tyres: Maxxis 2.35" 42a UST High Rollers. Front Brake: Avid BB7, with A2Z Rotor. Rear Brake: Magura, Heatsink Backings, with Phat pads. Pedals: Shimano DX. Hope you like it as much as I do!

Just you wait 'till I've got my camera fired up.

From what I read, it seemed that along with not actually having a bell, you could be fined for having one, but not even using ot!

Or a much easier and safer way of doing it: Open image. Layer > duplicate layer Image > adjustments > desaturate Layer > add layer mask > reveal all Paint brush > colour black > paint where you want the coloured image Paint brush > colour white > paint if you've gone to far, to bring back the b+w layer. Then by selecting each layer, you've got greater control over contrast, hue and colour adjustment etc etc. Much better.

You can tighten the hub bolts, (sort of hard to explain), and then use the allen key in the hub bolts to rotate it all. It's really easy to adjust the tension.

Update: Eccentric dropouts for the f**king w!n They work an absolute treat, I get a lot more than a full chain link's movement, and best of all, no mech! (Have a bolt on gear hanger too, for those dirty comps ) I'm extatic.

Erm, the reach will be the same mark?

*sigh* Yes they're Koxx rims.

Yeah, same caliper, 20mm bigger disk, or an adapter for a 20mm smaller disk.

A pic I took a lil' while ago.

Awesome video, some real incredible lines, especially on the natural stuff, made me want to go out and ride so bad! That spot looks a lot like Buthiers! Nice one, look forward to the next. Mike.

Chris King do kogs in 12-20t.