shovel

the high roller in supertacky would be a good coice, but if you wanted to keep the weight down a bit then the continental would be good although the high roller does probably have slightly better puncture resistance

i've been using toxsin grips and they're really comfy and grippy, only thing is that they wear down real quick

if you go to sram.com and then use the link to avid products you'll find plenty of info on the avid juicy 5 and also the cable discs i know someone with avid juicy sevens and they feel really good so i'd expect the fives to be alright too, but i have seen a lot of posts on here from people who swear by the avid mechanicals saying that they have plenty of power etc, so that might be a cheaper alternative for you

get some shimano ceramic specific pads, think they're a bit softer than usual so they don't wear down the rim coating too much but they give good modulation and sort of bite

we used to have some scales at work with a hook that went round the bike stand and a hook that you could hook your front wheel on, that was until someone broke them . . . . anyway my bike weighed about 23 - 23.5 pounds but its got even lighter stuff on now so probably neerer the 23 pound mark, not bad for a long stock bike

overall i think that king hubs are worth the money, i use a king classic and i've found it amazing since i bought it, engagement is instant and very solid, bearings are easy to adjust and the hub is also very easy to service yourself the only "upgrade" that i bought for the hub was the stainless steel freehub body as i run a hg-70 cassette and it was to prevent the cogs from digging in, but it hasn't really been affective in preventing this, after only 4 months of use riding the bike most days, the cassette took me about 20mins to get off and i had to finally chissel my trials gear off with a screwdriver. . . . so thats the only real gripe i have about the hub for most people i don't really see much point in using a hd axle, it is a bit overpriced and to be honest the standard axle feels very stiff when your on the back wheel and has been very reliable so far

i work in a workshop and most disk brake bolts come with that dry threadlock stuff already on them but we just put grease on the threads, tighten them up and they seem to be fine, never have problems with them coming loose even on dh bikes etc make sure when you tighten the bolts you don't just go round all them in a row but you alternate and tighten bolts across from each other if that fails, it could be that the threads are damaged and you might have to try a little plumbers tape around the thread of the bolt

supertacky would be perfect, i ride some natural but mostly street and have to travel alot and my high roller 2.5 supertacky has been great

as ali c said above, the maxxpro 60a (harder compound tyres) have an orange line round the sidewall of the tyre whereas the supertacky (soft compound) and the slow reezay (uber soft compound) don't have the orange line round them especially for trials, you should be using either supertacky or slow reezay tyres for maximum grip anyway

hi, i'd basically like to know of any experiences anyones had with sram powerlinks on a trials bike, i currently run a sram pc68 chain and i remove it a lot to clean it, i've never used the powerlinks with chains i've got because i'm a bit scepticle about its strength but with removing the chain alot to clean it i'm not sure how good that is for the chain with pushing out and in pins all the time so basically sram powerlinks, strong or not ? thanks

here you go found a picture of my bike showing ard guard on raceface turbine lp cranks and 22t chainring

just measured my one and its 6mm thick, i use mine on a set on raceface turbine lp cranks and its good, its very solid as i've had two of them over the last 5 years and they've never bent and when coming up short on taps etc they take fair chunks out of walls only downside i can see is that after they've worn down about 1mm you start to wear into the spider of the crank arm, this is why middleburn pro and super pro setups are soo good as there is no spider to wear into but yeah overall they're pretty good

if you were spraying the bike yourself to get a good finish like this you will have to have patience use something like nitromorse to strip the original paint and then wash it down which will remove the nitromorse and the paint lightly rub down the frame with some fine emery paper which will make some of the scratches on the frame smoother start spraying the bike with primer, it'll take a couple of coats to make the frame even and smooth to get a mirror gold/silver finish you could buy some metallic silver and metallic gold paint, spray the bike with the silver and once dry spray it with the gold then once all of the bikes finished spray it with a couple of layers of laquer and that should be it alternatively you could send the frame to argos cycles and they can respray the frame in any colour you want, although this way costs about 80 quid or more and also by spraying it yourself it might be a bit more satisfying

i use my index finger for one finger braking for the front and rear brake as for gear ratios, i run 22:19 and it seems fine, but i do run six speed on my bike so i do have the choice of a stiffer gear for larger gaps etc. if your bike has normal dropouts it isn't a very good idea to run no chain tensioner, surly singulators aren't that expensive, or you could just use your old mech and tighten the high limit screw until it sits in place i think that an old mech is probably more reliable as its probably a bit stronger than a single speed tensioner

i would definately say the maxxis, i run a 2.5 st high roller on the rear and it is amazing, haven't punctured it yet and it has oodles of grip if you went for the 60a compound the grip level wouldn't be very good, if you don't like the bouncy feeling then you could just run the tyre at a higher pressure . . . . .

that video was awesome, some massive gaps and taps there

http://www.argoscycles.co.uk/www/contacts.htm thats a link to the contact page on there website, if you give them a ring they'll be able to sort you out with some prices i work at a bike shop and they're the company we always use for resprays and most frame repairs, do a very good job and there prices are very good so it shouldn't be too much hopefully for the stickers

yeah i suppose all of that time wasted faffing about with a shimano hub is a bit useless as it will just happen again and again . . . . .when you could just save your pennies and get a king

well i've got a toxsin and i haven't rode a pitbull before, i can say though that the toxsin rides really nicely, really stable and easy to keep your balance on natural and on the street its really easy to keep control of one of the reasons i went for the toxsin was that i wanted a longer bike but didn't want to fork out a heap of money for a coust or koxx etc. and i haven't been disappointed at all, for the money the toxsin is awesome, the overall quality of the frame is very good, the welds are very well finished and the bike feels stiff to ride which does boost your confidence alot as most other people have said though, it will come down to personal preferernce but it would help if you could get a shot of one or both bikes

hi, it will be the drive mechanism for the hub which is called the freehub body that will be knackered on a shimano xt hub it is very easy to remove, firstly remove the axle with a combination of 17mm and 15mm cone spanners, then remove all the bearings from either side since they'll fall out anyway next take a 10mm allen key and unscrew the bolt that holds the freehub body (bit that the cassette slides on to) and the freehub body should just slide off take this part down to your local bikeshop and they can sort you out with a new one, for an xt one it costs about £30 and its reccomended that you replace the hub bearings at the same time so a packet of 1/4 inch bearings is what you need and they'll cost about 50p to reassemble the hub, slot on the new freehub body, screw the bolt back on with your 10mm allen key, insert the new bearings into the bearing races at both sides of the hub with some fresh grease, its usually 9 bearings per side on a rear hub, then finally reinsert the axle, adjust the cones so there is no binding or play in the axle and your done alternatively the bike shop could do it for you which will cost about £10 in labour

i got my toxsin #1 frame from adam and his home landline number is the best one to contact him on, really nice guy too

theres a company called atb sales down in england, they are the importer for norco in the uk, they may have some, if not, you could send the frame to a company called argos cycles and they can make up exact stickers to match the ones on your bike or in any other coloue combination of your choice

£5 postage wasn't too bad, it cost us £6.50 to post it and oh yeah it got sent out today, took it to the post office myself :blink:

maxxis logo on the non drive side is the best way for trials

honigs with a grind are really well, i run a set on the rear with a light grind and they have a lot of bite to them